madkaw

Mike, The first pic was what I was looking for. It looks like you have about an inch between your moustache bar and the vertical brackets for the control arms. As far as what they did with the moustache bar on the later 240's, I'm not sure, so enlighten me. I thought I remember reading that they changed things ,but I can't remeber why or how. I was also hoping someone will chime in that has installed the RT mount with their r180 diff.Hopefully a model later than 71

Anyone- please!

I prefer the look myself

How do we know he installed 73 pistons?Did your machinist cut some small reliefs in your pistons? From what I read, with a stock Nissan gasket( .047 or 1.25mm) he would be around .035 head to piston clearance, which is good for squish. That is what I am running. I had .005 taken off the deck and stock piston height--no problems.

Who's Herman, well he's the guy actually making these flares-Hartman Fiberglass. He admits to making probably 400 sets of these and selling them to MSA(biggest buyer) and Les and probably others. He was aware of the situation and knew who I was. I guess I am one of few who has voiced a real problem with the driver's side flare. Though I have read many complaints on these forums about flares not fitting properly. Herman said flat out----this is not Les's fault, it is his. Les pointed out to Herman what the problem is, but Herman can make money selling them just the way they are, so why take time to fix them(paraphrasing what herman said). Time is money to Herman, and he is just a poor small business man. This fix would take an hour of bondo and redoing the mold, which Herman said he will do next week-we will see. I said to Herman,'maybe I'm just picky, but I want my car to look right', and he agreed that he would be picky too. I recieved an e-mail from Les and he will refund me, but I don't know, I might stick this out and pester Herman for everyones sake. If I eventually give up, I will return the flares to Les and move on. I wish someone could drop a driver's fender off for Herman so he can see how the flare fits

Les, I am sympathetic to your issues as a small business man, and I have tried to conduct my business with you keeping this in mind. You know I have had patience, I I have tried to give you time to work this out. I guess my biggest issue has been the communication, or should I say lack of. It took you 4 weeks to acknowledge that you recieved back the bad flare-which I paid to ship to you. It is obvious that you can type by looking at the novel above. I would have been pleased with a one-liner every once in a while, but I always had to persist to get a response. And to be clear, the refund was pending on whether you could come up with a fix. I was never given a choice of refund or wait. I guess I can look at this a doing a service to the Z community as far as noticing the flare had a defect, so maybe we can get these out of the system. As far as you Les, I will say again, there is nothing personal about this . It is obvious that have pleased many customers and I hope you continue to do so. regards Steve

My e-mail string with Les-note the dates, and still no satisfaction; I went with Classic Datsun to try an avoid such issues that I thought might occur with MSA, I guess I guessed wrong. This is NOT personal, this should be BUSINESS. June 21,2012 Steve Yes I know that I returned the flare to the shop nearly 3 months back immediately after getting it back from you it has been my goal to re-do the flare my way with a different shop but so far I have been way too busy to do so. That leaves the shop I now use who is the same shop that make the flares for motorsport auto. he is alway involved in some kind of project that is a big deal to keep him in business and he has beenb thrashing on the newest one of those for Honda which is true and not just a lame excuse. he has promised that he has a guy fixing the flare today and will also fix the mold. he is apparently delivering the Honda racing project today and has promised again so if this happens I should know sometime next week and if not resolved Then we can figure out what to do. Sorry Les Les Cannaday Classic Datsun Motorsports 345 Olive Ave Vista, CA 92083 (760)940-6365 (866)288-8340 fax --- On Thu, 6/21/12, stephen finnerty <s_finnerty1018@comcast.net> wrote: From: stephen finnerty <s_finnerty1018@comcast.net> Subject: FW: ZG flare To: "Les @ Classic Datsun" <z432@pacbell.net> Date: Thursday, June 21, 2012, 9:23 AM Les, I looked thru my e-mails and you have had the bad flare for 3 months. I need a decision here, Steve From: stephen finnerty [mailto:s_finnerty1018@comcast.net] Sent: Monday, June 18, 2012 7:32 AM To: 'Les @ Classic Datsun' Subject: RE: ZG flare Les, I really need a determination from you on this issue. Sorry if you think I’m not being patient, but this has gone on for months and I need to do something about my tire rubbing issue. I would like to move on and find another source unless you can resolve this issue this week. Thanks Steve From: Les @ Classic Datsun [mailto:z432@pacbell.net] Sent: Friday, May 04, 2012 10:33 PM To: stephen finnerty Subject: RE: ZG flare Steve They promised to get on it right away and I have suspended selling them until I resolve this issue. They told me that it was in the queue to be repaired and remolded but I called the other day and they are trying to get something finished over the weekend. We can only hope to see the results next week to see what happens. Les Les Cannaday Classic Datsun Motorsports 345 Olive Ave Vista, CA 92083 (760)940-6365 (866)288-8340 fax --- On Fri, 5/4/12, stephen finnerty <s_finnerty1018@comcast.net> wrote: From: stephen finnerty <s_finnerty1018@comcast.net> Subject: RE: ZG flare To: "'Les @ Classic Datsun'" <z432@pacbell.net> Date: Friday, May 4, 2012, 9:14 AM Les, It’s been about a month and was just curious if you ever came up with some flares for the driver’s front? Steve Finnerty 317-979-9929 From: Les @ Classic Datsun [mailto:z432@pacbell.net] Sent: Wednesday, April 04, 2012 4:45 PM To: stephen finnerty Subject: Re: ZG flare Steve Got the flare and got to compare it to about 6-7 others at the fiberglass shop on Thur. last week. Had to leave at 5am the next morning for the track and their is very poor service up there so I did not e-mail the results yet. ALL the flares going back to my original molds have the same exact shape as the one sent to you and all the ones MSA sells have it as well so my guy decided to fix the flare and use it to repair the mold and is making us a new mold and a new part for you. As soon as I know more you will too and sorry for the bad communications. We are trying to do too much right now!!! Just called him and no news yet. Les Les Cannaday Classic Datsun Motorsports 345 Olive Ave Vista, CA 92083 (760)940-6365 (866)288-8340 fax --- On Sat, 3/17/12, stephen finnerty <s_finnerty1018@comcast.net> wrote: From: stephen finnerty <s_finnerty1018@comcast.net> Subject: ZG flare To: info@classicdatsun.com Date: Saturday, March 17, 2012, 7:12 PM Les, I fed-exed the bad flare to you. It is the driver’s front side. Tracking # 045782815054616. Please let me know when you get it. Thanks Steve

I repaired a 71 a couple of years ago that had sat around for 18 years. These engines are tuff! I bet you can get it to come back to life with less effort than you think. Squirt some oil in the cylinders and turn it over by hand with the plugs out--have you done that yet?? Another thing that will be helpful--please try and post here using proper grammar and punctuation. You will be better recieved by the members if we don't have to try and decipher your posts. We aren't the grammar police, but you will get more cooperation if we completely understand what your telling us. Example:rebuild? i have all the equipment to do so. and mechanically? im not so sure yet havent look much into it. I have no idea what you just said! .

Watch out- I think that's what starting my bulging disc in my neck. That's why the last time I pulled the motor and left the tranny in why repairing my rear main seal. You really have to jack the car up high and then it's a lot of grunting while on your back. Good job cursing your way thru it!!

Breathe----ahhhhhhhh, another breathe-----ahhhhhhhhh, yes ,relax my son. You seem to be spinning here, so you might want to slow down. Welcome to the club of Z's. Might I recommend you do a lot of searching of what others have done. Might I also suggest that you shoot for just getting the car running so you can enjoy it. After you have it running you can decide where to go from there. There are actually many threads of people who were in the same scenerio with acar that sat around for a long time-you might want to search those. Don't get all worked up on high HP numbers or fast the car could be, they are just fun cars to drive and look cool too. If you get in to deep in the beginning you will get discouraged and not finish the project. It's much more fun to do enhancements as you go, so your ride is down too long. Start with the basics and we will help you get it done. Get fuel(clean fuel), spark and some air and that engine will probably be fine. You can get fuel tanks cleaned and coated or do your self . Good luck Alex

From all i have read thru the years on these sites, I would strongly recommend using genuine Nissan on the your windshield and hatch seal. Most of my seals were percision seals, and they did okay. But the windshield seal is lacking a perfect fit and if I was a daily driver in rain, I wouldn't be happy. The corners do not fit as well as a Nissan seal. The door seals are also okay from precision, but guys have had good luck with the kia sportage door seals- try searching that. It comes down to how cheap you need to go. You can get buy with aftermarket, but the crucial areas should be done with Nissan seals. And like said above-Black dragon offers little to no customer support. They usually have to call the warehouse just to get the manufacture of the item. MSA will usually tell you if their item is genuine Nissan or not.

Unfortunelty, your stock console will probably not work with the shifter that far foward--the domino effect!

Sure it's not your 'new' shifter mechanism?

Was that a 2 or 3 row- or I guess it doesn't matter if it has a hole in it

You will hard pressed to improve on the cooling over the original 3 core radiator. The radiator shop that flushed mine was VERY impressed on how well the radiator flowed. It's a shame to have to redrill your support for the new radiator. I think you will wind up cutting your tunnel about an inch to move the shifter foward- If it is the same as the t-5 tranny. Then your console will have to be moved foward or replaced by a newer console. But maybe this is only true with the t-5.

That was mine actually! sorry there is a patent pending!

Have you visually checked to make sure the jet NOZZLE is seated up against the body of the carb. There should be no brass tube showing with the choke off. If that nozzle hangs down it will cause a very rich mixture. When you put the needles back into the piston of the carb- did you fit them flush or how? Now you have it running- what do the front plugs look like? Did you check the syncro balance at 3000 rpm?( air flow) Do you have a picture of your current set-up so we can see

You never answered whether you experience any bobbles or any hesitation during hard/fast throttle tip-in??

Talk about a time capsule!

Nothing personal was taken, we are exchanging thoughts. I DO have some idea of what my AFR's are doing, but in a limited range. At cruise-where the pilot circuit lives, my gauge seems to work okay. Only large swings in AFR throw it off. At cruise with the 65's I am running around 14(which I could dial in richer), which seems lean based on what you have learned and what seems typical with Mikuni's. Examining the plugs seem to verify this with the fact that they don't show any color, or soot, or anything but a slight tanning on the porcelin. Also my tail pipes are clean, actually cleaner than anytime I was running SU's with SM needles. I can't explain the difference, but my engine runs better than it ever did with the SU's. I don't see going backwards on the pilot jets and Todd agreed with me to go bigger. As far as the main air jets-not sure if I understand your statement. My understanding is the bigger the main AIR jet, the higher the rpms needed to draw in the main jet. Also, you are saying that Todd suggests 12.7-13 under load-are you refering to cruise?

I guess I never had much discussion, or Todd never mentioned about the BS associated with the pilot setting. I have been going by the Mikuni manual refering to the 1 turn rule. I am pretty sure that I am not running as rich as you, but I do believe that is where these carbs like to run. Todd never really gave me numbers to go by as far as jet sizes, infact he thought the 57.5's would be close on my engine, but they weren't even close. Like you said ,every engine is different, and my engine is especially unique running a CAI and a vacuum log. I have been trying to listen for detonation more than anything and using the butt dyno-which is usually not accurate. Sounds like you and I are keeping Todd busy with all the jet orders!! The biggest suprise for me is the size of pilot jets my engine likes to run, I haven't found many threads showing engines running this big of jets. Do you have any bobbles at all during a hard tip-in of the throttle? I'm talking a quick tip-in?

Mitchell, I wish i could tell you, but this where my wideband fails me. It hasn't been in the budget to replace it, so I'm just doing the best I can going off my AFR's at cruise and looking at my plugs.

I have the car running pretty good, power feels decent and the wideband shows a nice 14+ at cruise. Still have a slight bobble that only happens at the hardest tip-in. I went ahead and rechecked my adjustment on my pilots(62.5's)and I was out over 2 turns. So I reinstalled the 65's , and dialed them in-but I am still over 1.5 turns . My useless wideband really didnt give me a good indication of any change. Infact my gauge seemed to get more erratic with the new pilot size. I did get the engine running smoothly and-- at first, it seemed to be a bit torquier at the low end. So I am giving these tid bits of info as background to what I did next. I decided to bolt on my vacuum log again to see if I noticed any difference. The most immediate thing I noticed when driving the car with the vacuum log installed was-- a stabilized AFR on my guage. I couldn't seem to get a stable reading when I first installed the 65's , but with the vacuum log the reading was very stable?? Also, the vacuum log also seemed to lean out my AFR. I don't believe I have any vacuum leaks, the car has a rock steady idle at 750rpm. One last thing, is there a secret for starting the engine after it's hot? I don't have any issues on initial start up, but after driving it and shutting it down, it is difficult to get started. It usually takes a second try. I've tried different things like -one pump of the gas pedal, or giving no gas at all. Maybe I am trying to run it too lean at idle? Current set-up 65 pilots-1.5+ turns 200-main air 160-main jets 40 acc. pumps-set on the highest setting Vacuum log is 3/8" lines to ALL runners, and 3/8" to the PCV, and 11/32 to the MC booster I'm going to the Midwest Heritage Z show, so I will have plenty of miles to play with the mixtures!!

I would think any leaks between the AFM and the throttle body would be of signifigance. Your AFM is measuring the amount of air going to the TB and you are sucking more air past the AFM that is NOT metered. You could try the old propane test and see if you are sucking air in that area. Some guys use carb cleaner to spray around possible leaks also. If you note any change then I would suspect that the tape is not holding or other cracks have formed. Not sure what the second pic is

Hysterical!!