madkaw

The little rubber flaps are stock and you are right on their purpose. I replicaded these using some rubber sheet. It is a good idea to close this area off from stuff getting trapped back there and rusting out things!!

Break in is all about the rings seating. Since they haven't seated yet I would assume your compression wouldn't be very high yet. The good part is all your numbers are the same , so it seems you got it together right!

Not sure what your testing for on the vacuum side of the dizzy, but the vacuum side is probably not your issue. More then likely it would be your mechanical advance is not advancing. Put a timing light on there and check to make sure you are advancing past 30 degrees above 2500. Check you dizzy cap Rotor Wires Coil- will show up under heavy load

Normal stuff like the pcv line and any other vacuum lines, brake booster. Then you can double check your ignition wires for firing order, points, ect... Go back over the basics to make sure you didn't miss something simple. I am assuming you checked the SU pistons for the drop test. Is the choke actually moving the nozzle?

Have you checked to make sure you are actually getting fuel from the tank? If your carbs were that gunked up, what does your tank look like? Do you have fresh fuel? Remove the fuel lines and crank the motor and see how much is coming out. You also cleaned the inlet fuel screens in the carbs? Make sure you have no vacuum leaks.

No offense taken:) It all makes for good argument. It seems to me Racer was just pointing out an inherent flaw with a large cam chain design. There is no way to eliminate this-even with a good chain and tensioner. I think a qualified engineer could work this out mathmatically. Yes the holes are for adjusting out additional slack in a chain, but it's more than that. The effect of a loose chain retards cam timing, so you can counter that with advancing the cam timing. Also, think about how times someone has come along and taken the original design from a manufacture and made it better by further R&D process. Nissan engineers developed something for mass production and it will have inherit flaws, but not a bad design. I don't think Racer would have made such comments without seeing something on a dyno. Overall, the article you are refering to is a great educational tutorial on how an engine works, and I am glad he liked to mess with Datsuns, but he also made a name for himself with Mopars too. I actually came across a racer Brown cam on an e-88 head, I wish i had kept it, but I didn't know any better. It had the single valve springs and it was a mild cam. I would love to hear from the person who bought it to see if they are running it and how it performs.

Mechanical engineer making his own cam designs - and pretty good too- writes based on conjecture Really?

Forget about the bright link, it would be pure luck that the link would end up your setting. Think about how many links are on a 40" chain and you have 2 bright links

Racer Brown is one of those readings that you have to do 4 or 5 times before it starts clicking. Take small doses, he really does a good job explaining things,but it's a ton of info

I made my own RT mount for my diff and I'm thinking I didn't make it quite right and it is causing my clunk in the rear. I'm looking to compare my spacing between the moustache bar and rear control arm down braces to your set up. I think my diff mount pushed my diff and moustache bar back too far and it is hitting my braces for the control arm. Pics or a measurement would be great showing the spacing between the two. I am running a r180 diff and moustache bar

That part is too rusty and nasty to come from your car- might check your other vehicles:)

If you read Racer Browns article on cam timing he states that the rather long Datsun chain induces a retarding effect on cam timing- so why not counter act that by advancing the timing. I think a stock engine would benefit most by trying to gain low end grunt

I would disconnect the brake booster from the system and anything else vacuum related and see how it runs. Definitely get your timing figured out. You need to get the FSM and check all your resistances. Especially the AFM sinceyou messed with the flapper door. That flapper door is tied into a potentiometer, so you if you bent things around you might have changed things. There are tests you can do witth a mulimeter to make sure it is right

Cliff, I'd do it. I think I would install it on #1 hole first, drive it around and really take notice how it runs in every situation. Then flop it to the third hole and drive it again. Once your timing chain is set, it's pretty fast to make an adjustment to 3 hole.

You can't expect to get accurate help with such a vague description. You write a post like we all live next door and have seen your car and had a beer with you. History of car? Spark plugs look good, distributor looks good(what does that mean)-- are they putting out spark? Fuel getting to the carbs? Did you just do something to the car, or you just woke up and the car didn't run. Doesn't fire up? Is it firing at all? Did it run before? Fire one up! You see-we are doing a lot of guessing here-help us help you.

You know- if you plan on doing a big project like this you should try and get more organized

I will add that I have no issues whatsoever with my cables. I have disconnected the terminals from the battery a dozen times and the ends still snug easily will little torque.

Just curious if anyones going!!

Let me restate that when I originally looked at the gland nut-when I first started taking it apart-I noticed how far it down in the strut tube. After removing the shock I screwed the gland nut back down and it bottomed out on the threads in the same place. That tells me that I can't be sure if the gland nut is actually touching the shock, too close to be sure. So a spacer makes sure -by showing some threads after tightening down the gland nut. As far as a washer, I just found something laying around that worked.

When you put the seals in the right way-they don't leak:stupid:

Well the only way I realized something waas wrong was trying the gland nut without the shock in there. I mean it wasn't much , But the nut just stop turning in and around that 1/8" gap you are talking about. It may be better advice to say that you can see atleast one or two threads. One washer and I saw atleast two threads. I can't remember now whether I used the nuts that came with the shocks, or the originals. Also, I didn't have any packing for the nut, which might make a difference. I honestly don't know what the packing even looks like, but I wish I had something to seal the shock in there.

Welcome to the Z world! First off-there's probably nothing you could think of that hasn't been tried or done on this engines as far as combinations. All you are doing here with this combo is basically making a L26 motor. I would suggest that you search this site and Hybridz to see what's been done. You will be amazed of what's out there and you might be inspired or confused with the amount of info.

I have been dealing with a clunking noise in the rear for a while, not to be confused with a diff clunking noise. I have been doing a lot of searching and I kept coming back to the strut loose, so I took it all apart today. Looking at the gland nut it looked like it was seated well, but when I grabbed it ,I could turn it by hand:ermm: Well I knew I found my issue, but why was it loose? After taking out the shock, I screwed the gland nut down on the empty strut I could see that the nut was running out of thread. So I popped in a washer to space it out and bingo, the gland nut is actually doing it's job now. No more clunking over bumps:)

I with Carl on this, change out the MC and then change the fluid BEFORE installing anything else. This will flush the contaminated fluid threw the old equipment. When you are doing individual brakes you can plug the brake line so you don't loose your fresh brake fluid. This will also make bleeding easier in the end with having some fluid already in the lines. If you haven't done these drum brakes before, I would do one side at a time or take pictures so you aren't guessing later how things go together

There's probably many ways to wire this, it depends on what you want in the circuit. I wanted a ; on/off switch accessable enertia switch incase of the worst scenerio fuel pump relay fuse I found the black/white stripe and green wire plug behind the heater panel. My car is a 9/71 and was wired for a pump, but didn't use one. This plug was used to tie in a loop circuit that would have a fused link before it went to the pump. I decided to cut off the plug end before it got to the loop and put in a on/off switch. Lot's of advantages here-emergency cut-off, maintenance cut-off, fuel smell deterent. Just the other day I was troubleshooting my blinkers, which requires key-on, I just switched off my pump during the process. Next I found the green power wire above the passenger side kick panel so I can wire in a fuel pump relay and inertia switch. Both items can be found at Summitt or Jegs-I chose a a generic fuel pump relay. I wanted to tie everything in right there at the kick panel. The inertia switch comes with three wires; Normal open normal close ground I tied the power wire coming from the relay to the normal/closed wire on the inertia, and then connected the ground wire on the enertia switch to the green wire going to the back of the car to the pump. The enertia switches are only 25$, and it is a nice safety feature. The relay got mounted next to my headlight relays tied into my fuse block.