madkaw

I don't have the headlights yet, so no report on them, but I will!

WOW, I started this a long time ago. So I have had this lit laying around for over two years-what have I been doing? So like I said, I bought a headlight relay kit from Daniel Stern Lighting and just recently ordered some Cibie(spelled it right this time) headlights. I had just pulled my motor to fix an oil leak(another story), and I was looking at that empty engine compartment and thought this would be a great time to do this upgrade. So I referenced the above web site and found another good one; http://alteredz.com/Headlight_Relay_pg1.htm and started to get working on it. Pete's site is the best for telling you exactly the right wires to use and a very simple plan on how to do this. If I were to recommend anything to the DIY'er, I would get some kind of relays and holders that came with wire leads already attached to the holder. I also didn't care for the headlight sockets supplied with the kit, but just my preference. I ran my wires from the relays all the way to the headlights and eliminated the original sockets, again, just my preference.

I'm a liitle confused of what you have from what car, but I would look closely at that L24. Do you know anything about any of these engines. Does the L24 need to be rebuilt and why are you stuck on making the L26 work. If it were me, I would want to make the E-31 head work on one of the blocks, it doesn't really matter which one, but do your research. The E-31's had issues and need some close scrutiny, but if I was going to pick a head to invest in a rebuild, it would be the one, and I would probably stick with the L24. Done any compression checks? There is a lot of info on here and Hybridz as far as mix and matching of parts

A member on Hybridz just had a similiar issue and it was as simple as clogged filter screens on the inlets. CAptain Obvious has given some good advice and it IS a good idea to keep any vacuum related components out of the mix until you get the car to idle. Have you tried just removing the fuel line just aft of the pump and putting the line in a glass jar to see if the pump is pulling up fuel? These fuel lines are small on this car and can get clogged easy-ask me how I know;) Known condition of the gas tank? Tear into the carbs LAST, make sure the support systems are working first. Carbs aren't doing any good without gas

Blue, After reading your thread again and again I have new leads for my issues with my Mikuni's . Not sure if Mikunis have an inspection plug for the progression holes, but thats where I need to look next since my engine falls on it's face over 1500 rpm just sitting in the garage. I should have inspected them while I had the carbs off- they maybe clogged.

I just removed and installed my motor only, but I have pulled and placed the motor and tranny at the same time. I was worried about aligning the ngine with the tranny still in the car, but I took measurements so I knew when the input shaft and crank should have been lined up. It is a bear to push the engine against the tranny, but my time under the car was very minor and no struggling on my back. One person can do either job-hope you have an engine hoist leveler! If I had everything out of the car, I think I would want to put the engine and tranny together in front of me where I can see what I'm doing better.

Hey Blue, When you get time-can you do a thread like this on the Mikuni's!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Very nice work, and I do mean work to put all this together-thanks

Two good days and I got my new rear main seal in and got my motor back in the car. Things really couldn't have gone much better----or could they. I in stalled pilot air jets-#60's in my Mikuni's and it really didn't help much. THe car would start great using the starter(enrichnent) engaged, but wouldn't idle or run worth a dam without it. I started it up and BOOM, rock steady idle around 1500rpm, no spittting, sputterring, coughing, just smooth great sound-but my AFR wouldn't hardly come off 18. Now if I blip the throttle the car revs up nicely--atleast I got the accelerator pumps working good--the wideband will finally come off 18 and drops briefly into the 14 range. I ran a range of adjustments on my NEW pilot screws with no avail. It acts like there is not nearly enough fuel for primary functions. I did get the engine up to temp and pulled a spark plug and it was colorless. I had cleaned the plugs during all this work and they looked new before this start up. Well they still looked new and showed no color. Pilot air jets need to be bigger yet because of my vacuum log

"The grommet is not that elastic and from both ends, there are fairly large plugs that have to go through it. " You'd be suprised! I did it WITHOUT removong any connectors. Prepare for a battle on some of the connectors and grease things up so they slide easier, but they will go.

Well I'm probably a 1/16" from being flush, which I can't see as being a problem because the hole in cover plate between the engine and tranny is slightly bigger to fit outside the seal. As far as riding a new surface, i installed a Speedi sleeve so the whole surface is new. I got to say I'm a bit anxious about all this---BUT, BUT I do believe I will better off because I do think I installed the last seal BACKWARDS:stupid::stupid: I can't believe I did that, but I will have to fess-up. I will use the excuse that I was under the car last time and under durress--wizz poor I know.

One last thing-should it be flush with the block?

thanks

Okay guys, i'm getting tired and can't think straight-as well as second guessing myself. The rear main seal gets installed with the flat part(face) of the seal facing me or the other way around. I am second guessing myself since I have had two leak. I just installed a speedi sleeve for a new surface on the crank, but now I have somehow got myself confused as which direction the seal faces. God I'm getting old I guess

Does the engine turn over freely? Can you turn it over with the front pulley bolt? Take all the spark plugs out and try to turn the motor over(clockwise looking straight at the front of the engine).

"Odd whine sound"-like the the starter motor has spun around, but not attached to the motor in anyway? Make sure the starter is installed correctly-no gaps between the starter and the bell housing-not cocked in anyway. There isn't much else, but you can get a bad one right from the get go. Is it a Duralast? When I needed a NEW starter, I finally gave up and bought a used one. The new ones all seem to grind and work imperfectly and the used one would be smooth and never miss a beat. IS almost like the remanufactured the engagement gear teeth were sized wrong and they wouldn't engage in the flywheel properly.

Okay, so the battery is probably not the issue. Your next step would be to have the starter checked and the cables. You'll get it, just be methodical. Starter issues can be a pain because it is hard to get a good after market one these days. That was great advice to have your NEW starter checked before you leave the store.

Pull the battery off and the starter and take both of them to a local parts store and have them tested. They can load tset the battery. Even though it took a charge, it could be shorting across cells during loading. They can also put the starter on the test stand - maybe the solenoid sounds like it's working, but it's not. Again, it's essential to determine the state of your battery.

Glad to see you are charging. Hopefully nothing else got put back on backwards.

Good point guys. Honestly, I didn't think my wrap job would do anymore then keep the extreme heat from the header away from the bottom of the intake and keep the fuel charge a bit cooler. The wrap is only on the bottom half of each runner, and I believe there will still be plenty of heat in the intake. I also thought I have searched and found guys that have run a heat shield all the way up against the head, so this would be different? I would also consider the length of my intake runners-2"- maybe. Now how long are the VW runners. Just think how far the Mikuni pumps spray fuel-direct injection!! Not sure if any pooling is going to happen on this intake. I was actually worried more about heat transfer from the intake to the carbs. Besides-you know how long it took to make those weird patterns to wrap around that intake-they're staying-

And supplies power to about everything

:tapemouth

I wish I was standing in front of my car right now so I will have to go by memory----BUT, shouldn't the white wire on the starter be on the same lug as the positive cable?

Well I took accelerator pumps and nozzles out and blew some compressed air thru the passages and looked things over. Really couldn't see anything that would cause any problems, but there was something somewhere, because the nozzles are all shooting equally:beer: Then I pulled out the pilot screws and bad news(see pic). This is why you don't use any force whatsoever when bottoming out the screws. Someone really cranked on these and actually left a step in the mild brass screws. Todd has 6 new ones coming! I have some larger pilot air jets coming also incase. Soooo-while I am waiting around for parts I decided to put some heat barrier on my intake. Not sure about some of the other heat shields out there, but the one I made doesn't go all the way under the intake, just the carbs. I got some Thermo-tech adhesive backed stuff and wrapped the bottom side of the intake.

I don't see a pic of the starter and the fusible link there. I would be pulling and yanking on every post on the back of the alternator and the starter. Do you have 12 volts at the back of the alternator. What exact voltage are you reading at the alternator?

Okay- take a deep breath- Aahhhh Onemore time now- deep breath, now exhale - good Welcome to Classic Z car. We are always willing to help, but help us help you. Your first post is a lot of info crammed into one paragraph- too much actually . Start from the beginning- " I just recently rebuilt my motor and have installed it and... It does seem as if you have missed a very important item somewhere since you have no power anywhere in your car. Have you looked at a wiring schematic? Besides the actual battery cables there are some rather important wires that if not hooked up would kill everything. Did you make any changes to any wiring? Battery tested good? Grounds very tight ? Fusible links intact? Dilithium crystals on impulse power? All kidding aside, give us all info, pics you can and we can help you figure this out