madkaw

you should already have a green wire run all the way to the back of the car already. Look at your wires running to your sending unit, the wire should be there somewhere

Well my L24 just dynoed at 150lbs of torque. That's just a mild build, so if you think 105 is fun, then your L24 is just fine. The sum of parts and how much you tune will be the determining factor - not .4 liters

I'm jealous of how much room you have to install the intake bolts. The mikuni short manifold is a total bitch. On the other hand I wouldn't have room for my cold air intake with that long of an intake . That is a beautiful set- up and inspires me to get mine done. Waiting on the UPS man!!!!!!

I know les would rather talk, but the few times I have got Les on the phone you could tell he just wanted to get me off the phone- and I'm a " get a to the point guy". The e-mail is the best use of a busy man's time to answer questions like- did you get the item I returned. I'm am glad to have such a great asset to the Z community, but as a business I think email would be his friend. When your sending someone your hard earned money for a product, a simple one liner email makes your customer feel at ease. Not everyone knows Les or is Les's buddy, so we rely on the business transaction to rate our relationship with that vendor.

Actually it is black with white stripe and a solid green. Looked at them just yesterday

Okay. Just laid out big bucks to get this job going. Went with the 1204 Holley FPR and a guage, fuel pump relay, filters, RX -7 pump, CAI piping, filter. I'm going to just deadhead to the carbs. Ordered some bits I needed for the Mikunis from Wolf Creek so they should be ready to go. Right now I am resizing some studs for the manifold. The studs that came with the triples seem to short and there is not enough threads in the nuts for me. This is going to be a pretty involved job!

Can't believe there is that much issue with the linkages on new carbs.Now that I have linkage complete it feels good as far as return pressure and smoothness. Maybe I need to start a thread on my Mikuni install to compare!! Those wires around the sending unit are the right ones- probably not hooked behind the fuse box area. On my 7 9/71 the circuit was not complete, but I had a 73 harness laying around that had the rest of the wires. It basically is just a loop circuit to include a fusable link. I ordered a pump relay and I'm also going to have a separate switch on the drivers side to turn the pump off at will. I went with the rx7 pump

Les, It's funny that I pulled up this thread and was reading your response and my phone pings with an e-mail from you. So I am gathering that you agree with me that the shape is a bit off on that flare? I am definetly willing to listen to my tires rub a bit longer for a good flare. I'm glad you are busy and glad to see a Z business staying around.

Been all over the Holley web site and it is very informative. There are nice diagrams laying out the plumbing for their FPR's. As far as the 1204 model, it is only to be used before the carb with no return line. Leon, not sure what FPR works for your setup ? You could use the Holley 1203bp, but the pressure doesn't get below 4psi and Holley states the return should be the same size as the supply. The Holley site also covers wiring a oil pressure switch and a relay setup for your pump!! So they way I see it, unless someone can show me otherwise, the only option is the 1204 and not use a return line

So I might have got a little over zealous here, because I just had another moment-man I'm thick. So in my possible plumbing diagram below, you would use the Holley 1204 just before the return line? I look at that regulator and it has 2 outlets and one inlet. I'm gathering I run one outlet to the return line and I can either plug one outlet or plumb a guage there?

So simple I over thinked it!! It just hit me like Mikle Tyson:stupid:. I guess when I hear return style-I just think a regulator that has a separate return port. So my triples right now have "T" on every carb for a loop set-up. So I might try and pull off some fuel line bending magic and reposition my supply line along the firewall and give it a straight shot to the carbs. Then coming out the other end of the carbs I will plumb into the 'in" port of the regulator and "out" to the return line and back to the tank. Wow, Ijust feel like I did something and I haven't done a damn thing-yet!

Still waiting on some dyno numbers!!!

Maybe this thread will enlighten that-I don't know. Logic says that keeping the fuel flowing would help negate that, but Mitchell is having no issues and his line still runs along the valve cover-which I want to avoid.

Okay, great ideas, but in your case Leon is where I have trouble picking the right regulator or how to plumb. You have what kind of regulator with how many ports? So how is the fuel going in and out and also to the return. It's easy to picture the FPR before the carbs as a simple in(supply) and out(carbs), but... your set-up Leon is carbs-- to the "in port" of the FPR and then what? I'm a visual guy I guess. Also Mitchell, any closer pics of said FPR set-up-it is hard to see in that pic?

Thanks Steve. Looking at the output pressure of the RX-7 pump(3.5-4.7psi), you might actually get away with no regulator. I have about come to terms with the fact that when you get down to this little pressure, the selection is small. I don't believe a FPR is sold that has a seperate port for the pressure guage. Now if you go up 1psi to 5, then there is all kind of choices. I also noted that you can basically make your own adapter for the guage inline, or EBAY of course sells an adapter in one piece for 14$. I am still playing with the idea of pressurizing the Mikuni's later down the road which will change everything as far as regulators!! I guess if I go with the Holley with two 'out' ports, I can adapt a guage to one of the outports-though it will take some adapting to be able to see the guage. It's funny that I have the money ready and I still don't have a firm plan-I guess I should have been doing a better job searching.

I have been doing a lot of searching on this and I hope I am just not being redundant here-but, I do have some questions. What I plan is running a RX-7 pump because I have read many good things about it. I am going to use my existing supply line and a regulator. The regulator is where I get a bit stuck! I guess I would have no problem running the return line, but not sure of what type regulator to use for that and where to put it in the plumbing? Most regulators I have seen have an inlet and outlet with the return. So do you run that type in a loop set-up before the carbs and attach the return? If you use a return style after the carb, what do you do with the outlet side? Maybe I am over thinking this, but I only want to order once. It seems the easiest to just forget the return and run a simple inlet/outlet no return style before the carbs. In either scenerio I would like to have a permantley installed fuel guage. It would be nice to just have the guage right on the regulator. The two port outlet regulators I have seen out there have outlets on the bottom and side, not very convienent location for a fuel guage. Love to see a regulator with two outlets on the side. Plus most guages are 1/8 npt -while most FPR's are 3/8 npt. Anyway, I will keep searching and hope you guys and shed some light on this.

You should consider a 1/4 mile run with your car for real world comparison also!!

That was my point. I guess I took for granted you knew that. They are considerably shorter thus making a knob adjustments does nothing for top end AFR. I nthink SM needles should be left to overbored SU carbs and 2.8 or greater engines. Now if I had a crazy cam in my car-but then the SU's would not be the best carb for that.

Oh great-leave us hanging

Nice!!!

Also it should be noted that the SM needles are much shorter. Not sure of the impact of that but there has to be some. I'd love to go back with the 27's , but I'm done with the SU's. I don't mean that in a bad way. I've been sitting on these triples for years- time to move on. The SU's are a great carb!!

When I was at the dyno the operator had a choice of numbers- example SAE. I guess you could do a direct comparison to factory SAE numbers that way. I believe the dyno gas the ability to correct for atmospheric conditions to make thongs apples to apples

Looks like you have a good tune on that motor! I like you AFR's, not too rich. I noticed the chokes are 30's. Not sure if that's the same as what Mikuni's choke, but that seems conservative, but maybe that's where she likes to run. Great Job.

Window frames!!

Agreed, Arne. My doors were off and completely apart with the window frames off and powder coated.