madkaw

You should consider a 1/4 mile run with your car for real world comparison also!!

That was my point. I guess I took for granted you knew that. They are considerably shorter thus making a knob adjustments does nothing for top end AFR. I nthink SM needles should be left to overbored SU carbs and 2.8 or greater engines. Now if I had a crazy cam in my car-but then the SU's would not be the best carb for that.

Oh great-leave us hanging

Nice!!!

Also it should be noted that the SM needles are much shorter. Not sure of the impact of that but there has to be some. I'd love to go back with the 27's , but I'm done with the SU's. I don't mean that in a bad way. I've been sitting on these triples for years- time to move on. The SU's are a great carb!!

When I was at the dyno the operator had a choice of numbers- example SAE. I guess you could do a direct comparison to factory SAE numbers that way. I believe the dyno gas the ability to correct for atmospheric conditions to make thongs apples to apples

Looks like you have a good tune on that motor! I like you AFR's, not too rich. I noticed the chokes are 30's. Not sure if that's the same as what Mikuni's choke, but that seems conservative, but maybe that's where she likes to run. Great Job.

Window frames!!

Agreed, Arne. My doors were off and completely apart with the window frames off and powder coated.

The shim was placed between the door and the hinge. My doors were removed for paint and might have originally had a shim and it was lost in the mess! I'm pretty sure it was .060 I also had to slam the door hard, even though I thought it was adjusted right. Grab the end of the door with it open and try to lift up- there should be no play. There is also a small amount of adjustment on the window and frame. I am also running precision seals

Gnose, not that serious, but serious enough to go back with the triples and pay a couple hundred to dynotune while the engine is in the car. Capt. -I only paid for a baseline run(3 passes), but things were slow so they let me do some adjustments. I wish I has brought my 27's along with me now. I turned my mixtures way in and it only affected the AFR below 3000rpm significantly. So I was taking a chance of running lean there and still be rich. The only real solution was a needle change for my motor. 1.5 turns in amounted to about .1 on the AFR. The owner thought a full point on the AFR would have been worth maybe 10 HP

There's really much to photograph , it was a piece of scrap aluminum made to wedge behind the lower hinge. The metal might have been.060 thick. I guess it took so long to figure out since the door fit pretty well before all the paint work.

Still waiting to get e-mailed the dyno sheet, but basically I did 150/150 I guess I should be happy for a l24 AFR's were decent, but the SM's are too much in my opinion and the opinion of the race shop I dynoed at. I was barely above 12's and he felt I needed closer to 13's from what they see on NA motors. What I learned from this experience; SM needles are too much for the L24 with a mild cam and there is no amount of adjustment that will lean it out on WOT( I tried)Sorry guys, the mixture screws do not effect the entire power band. The butt dyno is misleading:disappoin My engine seemed detonation proof(even at 38 full advance)-no signs of it anywhere, either audible or on the dyno sheet-maybe a good motor for turbocharging:cool: 200HP, if I ever make it there, will be lot's of fun. I will need, and want, to rent time on the dynojet when the Mikuni's are on-I want to be sure. The dyno shop said that most of the widebands are inaccurate(that they see) changing timing from 32 to 38 full advance had little effect on HP-in this case The particulars for those who don't know; L24-40 over, early e-88, bigger valves, unshrouded, 9.55 to 1 MSA 6-2 header, dual exhaust e12-80 ignition, total advance 32-36 -3 runs SU carbs with SM needles

Well I could only muster 150/150 with my 2.4 and SU's. In relative terms to the OP, I'm in the ballpark with the smaller engine and carbs

Hey Leon, At the dyno today, we will see! Hope you don't burst my bubble if the numbers are good

I guess sometimes you have to get pissed off enough to fix somethings. A complete resto and my passenger door has never been right. The passenger door always had to be slammed and acted like it was sprung. The bottom of the door didn't line up flush with the bottom of the body line rear quarter. I tried adjusting the latch a million times it seemed. Pulling up on the door from the end it seemed that the hinge was slightly worn. So I pulled the door off after trying again to adjust everything and decided to shim the bottom hinge. I just grabbed a scrap of .060 aluminum and cut out a shim to put under the lower hinge so I could raise the door just a bit. What a difference it made. You wouldn't think that an adjustement so small and in a direction that seemed contrary or ineffective to the direction I needed to go would work, but it did. I guess it allowed the latch adjustment to be effective. Now the door lines up perfect and now the door closes with just a firm push. It also opens like it's not sprung. Oh how happy for a small victory. I hope this helps others with this common problem.

Would like to hear more specifics as far as timing, type fuel, afr readings

That sounds about right for a well tuned machine. Congrats!

Just an update. I finally caught Les near a phone and he told me to send the defective ZG flare back. He said there were a few odd ones, not sure what that meant. He also said he recieved my e-mails, but couldn't download my pictures on his phone? So if he recieves the e-mails I guess he doesn't have time to respond? Actually he has never responded to any e-mail I have sent him. I'm trying guys, but not sure about this. For you that 'know" him, please understand this is nothing personal because he seemed very cordial on the phone. I guess this is the nature of the beast when dealing with a small market hobby car.

Your Probably right Steve. My next question was going to be for you and you already answered it by saying you drive the car and it had good power. Such a narrow band would be more ignition or fuel. Will the car excellerate out of this narrow band easily? It only does this during a slow exceleration ?

Being that you already changed it out, I would say the pump itself is not the problem. The AFR numbers are still strange, but I will say that I have seen 16+ on my car with no popping. After doing my own searching everywhere on the web, I would have to guess that you have a exhaust valve problem. either a wiped lobe, or a bad guide, failed spring that is restricting the valve or tightening up and causing the valve to hang up. IMHO I had problems with my previous 1970 with the valves getting hung up by the valves, but it got bad enough that it showed up at idle. The only time the car ran perfect is when I would feed the motor AVGAS. The heavy lead content would free things up and the motor ran better. Best of luck!

Wow-400+ posts and we haven't solved the mystery yet! I feel for you man, this is got to be extremely frustrating. I was breezing thru the 400+ posts and searching what was done as far as the fuel pump. I know you replaced your pump and checked pressure, did you also check for volume? Have you checked all vent lines pertaining to the fuel tank and system? Looking at your last post regarding AFR numbers, it is hard to imagine you go lean starting in the 10's at idle(which is PIG rich). Even 12 at cruise is very rich, but the tip in on the throttle looks fairly normal, another words a momemtary rise in the AFR is what you will see during tip in due to no excelerator pump. So am I going anywhere with this? It seems that the fuel pump is not keeping up during a prolonged rpm session? Would this be a different than a WOT situation?-not sure, but you would think it would show up there also. Just thinking out loud and hoping to have the million dollar answer

Well if anything- this thread will be good PR for Les:) Glad to hear so many good things about Les. I guess I have been enlightened

I appreciate the feedback, not sure I agree with the "chill out" remark. I understand that this a "hobby/part time job" market. I guess having a website tells me that a person is somewhat tech savy and somewhat accessable with the same kind of tech. I didn't realize that Classic Datsun was such a part time venture that it might take weeks to hear back from the owner. I am fully aware that are market is limted and allowances need to be made. My post was a need for enlightment-as stated. I still think a disclaimer should be in writing on the website that this situation might occur. I would and will do everything to aviod MSA and that's why I gave Les a call.

Okay guys, I am a patient man, but hate being left in the dark. I will wait to hear from him- don't have much of a choice I guess. I think Les should have some kind of disclaimer on his web site to address this situation.