madkaw

Yes, what 5 speed? The T-5 that came in the turbos will come with extra work since it has a dedicated driveshaft. The better swap is as stated above.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?43350-Music-to-my-ears&highlight=music

I think whatever exhaust you decide on OTHER than stock usually manifests a drone somewhere in the rpm range. My car under load at 2000 to 2500 has a pretty loud drone noise and I try to avoid hovering in that range. I have an MSA header 3-2 with dual exhaust all the way back with glass packs AND turbo mufflers too. In hindsight I might have ran mufflers that were NOT straight thru type to help suppress noise. On the other hand I LOVE the exhaust sound 90% of the time. I put a long sound clip under the exhaust forum under the thread - "music to my ears", if you want to listen to the exhaust. I get a lot of nice compliments from folks who actually ride in the car, they say it sounds great.

There was a much more recent thread on this that I presented the same problem. I don't have time to find it but its there if you search-

He has Rota RBs on there. Robin, making the 2+2 model look sexy is tough , but your doing it right. There's one one Hybridz that looks like yours- very nice

Well i think got away with one. I found some older points dizzys and pulled one of the bushings off of it. The early bushings are a hair bit longer, but everything else is the same. I went ahead and redrilled the hole to next bigger roll pin size-5/32", and it worked.In fact the roll pins at your basic hardware store are the exact right length too!! The bushing was longer above the roll pin, which made it to tight against the dizzy body, but I just sanded the bushing down for a snug fit---NO MORE HULA GIRLS!!

Sarah, called autozone and it's 133$ with core exchange. Yes that's lifetime warranty-just a thought! Steve-how did your HULA DANCING DIZZY manifest itself, did you notice ignition issues?

I don't need a new one, though that would be nice! I'm going to just find a used one with a better shaft

Just venting and asking also. So I get my car back together-finally and drive around-nice! BUT, I realize that I still have issues-and more. I had replaced my head gasket and at the same time changed the valve timing-advanced it closer to the advertised number. Didn't feel much different driving, and in fact my car has never felt as strong as when I first rebuilt the motor about 7500 miles ago. The good is that the Subaru diff I put in is quiet and I have had no issues with it. The 3.90 gearing has made the car feel peppy and I can notice the handling difference of the LSD. The diff did NOT cure my high speed vibration-so more work there. So after driving around for a while and bringing back to the garage to check timing, I notice my dizzy is doing the hula dance:mad: I adjust my timing and it seems that the mechanical advance was only giving me an additional 10 degrees-whats with that? I pull out the dizzy and see the collar bushing at the bottom of the shaft is barely holding on and the roll pin is elongated-now how long has this been like this I wonder? Now I need to find another dizzy and I wonder what problems this has been causing? The engine is fairly smooth, but I felt that it could be smoother at higher rpms. I am kind of anxious to see what a GOOD dizzy will do for my engine. Then there is the puddle of oil left under the rear main after driving-here we go again.

There's only several vendors making these gaskets, so your choices are limited. Did you search for other peoples results on this forum. OEM is always better, but more expensive. There are great threads on door gaskets from donor cars- Kia. I think MSA uses a different vendor than Black Dragon.

How about restating the question. Are you asking specific questions about the drivetrain or chassis or interior-what? If you went to Wyotech you should know the difference between a turbo engine or an NA motor, so what specific question do you have?

Like Zed Head said... Glad to see you back, but Hybridz is much better equipped with info for these kind of swaps. It probably has already been done or getting done. Good luck, sounds fun

It's been kind of torture holding off , but I really want to see gains - not from a butt dyno. We do have similar set ups as far as header and MSA pipe. You need to update your signature because I can't remember what else you running:) I'm hoping in the early spring or sooner( when I have money) to get to the dyno. Then the SU's go up for sale and I move on to triples

Leon, I've had these triples for years, but I have tried not to rush to put these on just for your stated reason. I dynoed my SU's at Zcon 2010 and I was impressed that on a 98 degree day and conservative timing and badly balanced carbs the little L24 put out 155RWHP. I have already removed the triples since I was only doing a mock up for my CAI and linkage. Yesterday I threw the SU's back on and hopefully have her running again soon. I made a significant cam timing change(advanced) and this would not be the time to try and dial in new carbs. Hopefully this spring I will do my final dynoing on the SU's and get the triples on. I do want to do a direct comparison to see what changes the triples make with no other changes.

Never throw anything away and you might just have the right piece for a fix later.. I rummaged around in my scrap and found this linkage stuff-probably from an old Holley and I just welded it to the SU rod. The linkage is very smooth and works suprisingly well-to be tested yet on the road.

Cold air intakes have been proven to gain power by getting that denser air to the engine. It should be a better arrangement than a standard air filter sucking hot engine compartment air. I plan to try and prove this at the dyno with two separate runs -one with and one without the CAI. My goal is to isolate the induction system from heat as much as I can. Heat sheild on the triples, fuel lines away from the engine, cold air to the carbs, all should pay small dividends towards power.

I really wanted a CAI for my Mikuni's, but the choices are slim or costly. I like improvising and was trying to come up with a CAI that I wouldn't have to fabricate from scratch. Looking at the valve cover I realized that the size was right for an airbox, and as far as cosmetics, I think it fits. Some might think its hokey, but I like it and it should work well enough. I still have a lot of clean up and polishing to do, but it has been one of those enjoyable projects. I just need to get my 3" piping to finish my mock up. I should be able to come off with some 45 elbows to get the pipe out in front of the radiator. The most expensive part of this project was paying a welder. I don't have the means to weld aluminum, or this project would have been next to nothing as far as costs. Between paying the welder and piping I will have 250$+ in this. The TMW box is 400$ plus then you would also be buying your piping.

Sound like you need to do some more investigating before you throw out that question. How could you make a decision like that without knowing the actual condition of the motors-i.e. compression or leak down test. Just because the L28 has a little more cc's doesn't mean it will be stronger or a better motor. It is all about tuning and getting the most of what you have.

I think your experiment is only going to prove the transitional-not a steady cruise scenerio. ...and if your going to deviate from the FSM, then go in there and set the needles FLUSH with the groove on the piston. This can only help your cruise mixture-and try that on the road. Then go really crazy and richen up those floats. I won't tell anyone;)

So was there any impact on your AFR numbers? Gaskets could easily be made, just go buy some gasket material. I have still not read anywhere that it was verified that the fuel level was visible in the jets after removing the piston. It should be right there at the top.

My comment on sealer was more based on the fact that you be using a gasket that has a graphite layer to help seal. The sealant probably won't even stick to that gasket. As far as my closure comment--all in good fun and I would be as meticulous as you

I have been looking at the Lokar web site and trying to figure out what kit you have. So these are about 150$ ?? It does look good and I bet it is smooth operation

Could you please speed up the process a little-we need some closure here:) Is that sealant I see on the old gasket? If so,don't use any on that new gasket

Thanks Sam , looks like I will be doing the same thing as you. I already made a stay that I think will work. Now that I have seen your set- up I feel better about my idea.

Sam, I believe I have those same instructions, but I didn't get the "stay holder" as they call it. Plus my lever rod was different. This was a slightly used kit , so I might be missing something.