madkaw

I guess I just got lucky a couple of weeks agao when I e-mailed Les at Classic Datsun parts and he called me the same day. I inquired about some ZG flares via e-mail and he called me the same day-WOW, I'm impressed. He said he was getting ready to go out of town for a few days and he would get my ZG flares out before he left. So I paid him and sure enough the flares were there a week later. The problem is that I'm not quite happy with one of the flares and I want to talk to les about this issue. Well I sent him an e-mail and I got nothing back. I called everyday and his voice mailbox is full----------always. This has been at least a week or more. Is this a way to run a business-even a part time business? I'm on the road all the time and I at least check my messages and answer my e-mails. any insight on this guys??

I'm with you to a point cpt. Obvious. Not sure if a nozzle adjustment does much at 4500 even though at cruise. If the floats are a smidge low( I know. I know, here he goes again with the damn floats), there is no fuel to siphon at this point. The neddles are barely off their seat, so the fuel level has to be there-or am I misunderstanding how these carbs work.

And we have crossed out that your running the correct impedance coil for the pertronix - this thread is so long to go thru! And I thought the AFRs were much higher during the popping. I'm leaning towards what Beermate at this point. I'm not buying the valve scenario. Have we tried a different ground for the ignition?

You keep saying-"leaning out", what does that mean? Are you saying that by looking at your wideband guage the engine is leaning out?

It's probably the second biggest reason for loving this car-the first being the fun of driving it and listening to the inline sex! My son who is in highschool hopes I will pick him up everyday at school-the kids have no idea what the car is but they think it's an cool I had a guy in a company van stop in front of me at a 4 way stop sign in the middle of traffic hour to jump out and take a picture of my car. I mean traffic was backed up everywhere-I'm like- are you kidding me! I bought a new car the other day and I drove my Z to do the final paperwork at the dealer. After the final transaction the dealer looked at me with a big sh!t eating grin and said," soooo, you need me to drive your Z car home so you can the new car home". I said -sure- and he followed me home driving my Z. He was about my age and he couldn't thank me enough and took a dozen pictures in the garage. I get thumbs up from at least one person everytime I drive around. What's interesting and soon might get more interesting is the fact that i live in Bloomington at Indiana University where there is a very large young Asian population of rich kids. There is a tons of young Asians driving around Audis, Maserattis, porsches and we are not talking the cheap models. I wonder what these young "hot rodders" think of seeing a Japenese hot rod running around. I just moved back into this area so I'm quite sure my car will get known around this community.

Sh!t happens then we move on....

Yep, He called me last week to say he was shipping out my ZG flares before he went on the road for a week.

Mike, i'm going to be doing the same thing someday-going to FI from carbs, but I wouldn't go through all that work to put such an outdated system on there. Look at it as a long term project and do it a little at a time. I plan on getting a megasquirt set-up and start off using my LC-1 and programing my spark control first. You can hook up your MAP sensor and get used to seeing things on your laptop as how your engine runs. There's less parts and less things to screw up with a newer programmable ECU system. You would also be taking a performance penalty running a stock EFI system. You could still use the stock manifold and throttle body, injectors to save some money, but I wouldn't transfer anything else-IMHO i i

I'm suprised Dave went with the 42 head over the e-31, but the e-31 might be too much compression and would require more money to make it work. Of course all you have to make your determinations by, are what folks on here say run well. Not much in dyno results. So is it better to give up timing advance for more compression?-only dyno comparisons would say. Running high compression and running only 30 degrees total advance seems self defeating. In the end I guess Dave from rebello would know better than anyone else

Yes, what 5 speed? The T-5 that came in the turbos will come with extra work since it has a dedicated driveshaft. The better swap is as stated above.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?43350-Music-to-my-ears&highlight=music

I think whatever exhaust you decide on OTHER than stock usually manifests a drone somewhere in the rpm range. My car under load at 2000 to 2500 has a pretty loud drone noise and I try to avoid hovering in that range. I have an MSA header 3-2 with dual exhaust all the way back with glass packs AND turbo mufflers too. In hindsight I might have ran mufflers that were NOT straight thru type to help suppress noise. On the other hand I LOVE the exhaust sound 90% of the time. I put a long sound clip under the exhaust forum under the thread - "music to my ears", if you want to listen to the exhaust. I get a lot of nice compliments from folks who actually ride in the car, they say it sounds great.

There was a much more recent thread on this that I presented the same problem. I don't have time to find it but its there if you search-

He has Rota RBs on there. Robin, making the 2+2 model look sexy is tough , but your doing it right. There's one one Hybridz that looks like yours- very nice

Well i think got away with one. I found some older points dizzys and pulled one of the bushings off of it. The early bushings are a hair bit longer, but everything else is the same. I went ahead and redrilled the hole to next bigger roll pin size-5/32", and it worked.In fact the roll pins at your basic hardware store are the exact right length too!! The bushing was longer above the roll pin, which made it to tight against the dizzy body, but I just sanded the bushing down for a snug fit---NO MORE HULA GIRLS!!

Sarah, called autozone and it's 133$ with core exchange. Yes that's lifetime warranty-just a thought! Steve-how did your HULA DANCING DIZZY manifest itself, did you notice ignition issues?

I don't need a new one, though that would be nice! I'm going to just find a used one with a better shaft

Just venting and asking also. So I get my car back together-finally and drive around-nice! BUT, I realize that I still have issues-and more. I had replaced my head gasket and at the same time changed the valve timing-advanced it closer to the advertised number. Didn't feel much different driving, and in fact my car has never felt as strong as when I first rebuilt the motor about 7500 miles ago. The good is that the Subaru diff I put in is quiet and I have had no issues with it. The 3.90 gearing has made the car feel peppy and I can notice the handling difference of the LSD. The diff did NOT cure my high speed vibration-so more work there. So after driving around for a while and bringing back to the garage to check timing, I notice my dizzy is doing the hula dance:mad: I adjust my timing and it seems that the mechanical advance was only giving me an additional 10 degrees-whats with that? I pull out the dizzy and see the collar bushing at the bottom of the shaft is barely holding on and the roll pin is elongated-now how long has this been like this I wonder? Now I need to find another dizzy and I wonder what problems this has been causing? The engine is fairly smooth, but I felt that it could be smoother at higher rpms. I am kind of anxious to see what a GOOD dizzy will do for my engine. Then there is the puddle of oil left under the rear main after driving-here we go again.

There's only several vendors making these gaskets, so your choices are limited. Did you search for other peoples results on this forum. OEM is always better, but more expensive. There are great threads on door gaskets from donor cars- Kia. I think MSA uses a different vendor than Black Dragon.

How about restating the question. Are you asking specific questions about the drivetrain or chassis or interior-what? If you went to Wyotech you should know the difference between a turbo engine or an NA motor, so what specific question do you have?

Like Zed Head said... Glad to see you back, but Hybridz is much better equipped with info for these kind of swaps. It probably has already been done or getting done. Good luck, sounds fun

It's been kind of torture holding off , but I really want to see gains - not from a butt dyno. We do have similar set ups as far as header and MSA pipe. You need to update your signature because I can't remember what else you running:) I'm hoping in the early spring or sooner( when I have money) to get to the dyno. Then the SU's go up for sale and I move on to triples

Leon, I've had these triples for years, but I have tried not to rush to put these on just for your stated reason. I dynoed my SU's at Zcon 2010 and I was impressed that on a 98 degree day and conservative timing and badly balanced carbs the little L24 put out 155RWHP. I have already removed the triples since I was only doing a mock up for my CAI and linkage. Yesterday I threw the SU's back on and hopefully have her running again soon. I made a significant cam timing change(advanced) and this would not be the time to try and dial in new carbs. Hopefully this spring I will do my final dynoing on the SU's and get the triples on. I do want to do a direct comparison to see what changes the triples make with no other changes.

Never throw anything away and you might just have the right piece for a fix later.. I rummaged around in my scrap and found this linkage stuff-probably from an old Holley and I just welded it to the SU rod. The linkage is very smooth and works suprisingly well-to be tested yet on the road.

Cold air intakes have been proven to gain power by getting that denser air to the engine. It should be a better arrangement than a standard air filter sucking hot engine compartment air. I plan to try and prove this at the dyno with two separate runs -one with and one without the CAI. My goal is to isolate the induction system from heat as much as I can. Heat sheild on the triples, fuel lines away from the engine, cold air to the carbs, all should pay small dividends towards power.