madkaw

Mitchell, is that a kit and does the cable bracket bolt directly to the side of the carb?

THanks for the advisement, I have been considering the cable set up and might have to go that route .

Like the title says, I need some visual help on putting together my linkage from my PHH 40 Mikunis to the firewall of my 71-240. I have been studying pics on this site and others but not having much luck seeing what i want to see. I am running a Mikuni shorty manifold. The kit I bought had an extra bellcrank with a ball on it for the rod and ball linkage. Presently I am thinking of cutting my SU rod and mounting this bellcrank on it and doing something like that.(I will post a pic when this is done), but like to see what others have come up with. So if you have any close-ups of the firewall set-up that would be great.

When the previous owner installed the r200, how did they connect the rear of the rear control arms? The reason I ask is that the r200 won't fit with certain brackets that connect the rear control arms. The PO might have made his own bracket and made it too wide causing toe in.

How much oil did you loose or how much did you wind up putting back in after your incident ? Ruining your battery will cause running issues without sufficient charge to your ignition. Grounding problems will also effect engine performance. Do all you can before deciding to crack open your engine

How do you know you have the engine at 10 BTC static if you haven't got it running yet? Have you verified that the rotor is sitting on the #1 plug wire with engine at TDC? Did the machine shop do the final assembly or you? Is it possible that the valve timing is wrong, have you verified that?

Finally finished installing my Subaru LSD diff with a 3.90 ratio. My thanks to John Coffey for making this swap happen by having axles made. This will be sweet to have a newer(2005) diff. Hopefullly the newness will mean quietness and better traction too!!!!!!!!!!

Jaguar SU's maybe?

Good job!!!!!

I believe Olzed has it right, you have the timing too far off to adjust, and it is advanced. It's usually best to just start over again and get the engine at TDC and look at everything. At TDC the rotor iniside the dizzy should point to the #1 plug. I've noticed most dizzy caps have some kind of notch or bump on the outide that lines up with where #1 plug should line up when the cap is secured in place. This needs to be very close or you will have the situation you have now. Get the motor to TDC compression stroke #1. Try to make sure it's compression stroke by hearing or feeling the compression building at the #1 plug hole. You shouldn't need to pull your valve cover, just put your finger over the hole or loosen the spark plug enough to hear or feel the compreesion building. Take the cap off and check rotor alignment. If off, then remove dizzy to check alignment of shaft to the oil pump. It should look just like the Haynes manual at the proper O'clock position. Make sure whn you do check timing after getting the car running again that you disconnect the vacuum advance from the dizzy and plug the line.

Timing light? Do you have one ?

My SU's are awesome and I don't believe the carbs make the engine. BUT- I have a set of PHH 40's that I can't wait to get on my L24. Nice ride all the same!

Liking the blue color- nice work!

Thanks for the info - I need to put a mechanical gauge on there. I noticed on the video I made that my pressure was at 60 at idle. I am on my second rear main seal and it is still leaking. I have searched and excessive pressure manifests itself sometimes with a leaking rear main. I DO have a high volume pump with HP spring, not sure about an obstruction.

Leon, nice thread- thanks. I have someone sending me a stock spring to compare. I believe my spring is thicker winds thus stiffer. Oil pressure is 60 when warm- at idle! I have been fighting a leaking rear main and want to look at oil pressures closer. I am going to run a mechanical gauge in parallel with the factory gauge to verify readings

Are the HP springs longer or do they have a different wind or wire thickness? Good question?

Hey guys, hoping someone has a stock oil pump laying around and can pull the pump spring out and give me a measurement. I believe I am running a HP spring and I want to reduce to a stock oil spring. I'd like to verify my spring is HP. My spring measures about 2.135" long. Let me know if you need anymore measurements. thanks

Not sure what you make of that pic-I have the same manual and it doesn't even show the "groove". Granted, it isn't much of a difference, but there is a difference, and that difference would be the right direction for this issue. Also it would manifest itself as more than just a idle adjustment. The mixture screws can affect performance all the way into cruise.

The L24 is a great motor and are tough as nails. There is a ton of info on this site and others as far as what people have done to these motors----and stuff that really didn't need to be done too! Your question is very general and you might want to do more searching and come up with a plan that the members here can help you refine. If you are doing the work yourself, than the time invested searching with be priceless.

Originally Posted by madkaw No part of the needle should show except for the needle - no shank should be seen. All of the literature says that shoulder of the shank should be flush with the bottom face of the piston, not flush with the bottom of the venturi groove. That means you should be able to see like .035 worth of shank. I have never set the needles up like that and i am running mine flush with the "groove". I have been looking for "literature" to verify this either way, but I can't right now. I believe I saw this done on Z-therapys video. Like I said, my car runs great with the needle flush.

Okay- I'm not seeing this so called pic of the SU piston, but I'm using a I phone. I hope that the needle is seated flush against the bottom of te piston. No part of the needle should show except for the needle - no shank should be seen. If the needle is showing part of the shank, then I guarantee that's your problem

If you are going to spend any real money to rebuild a 35+ old diff, I would consider the Subaru diff option. You might have 800$ or more into it, but you would have an LSD made in the last 10 years and a variety of ratio options. That's assuming that John C would ship axles that far. The option is spelled out on hybridz . Maybe subbys are more available over there. Just a thought .

My hypothesis still remains the same - the level of fuel has to be right for everything to work together. Maybe even more so if a different needle and seat is used for setting the level- other than stock.

Did you ever think this thread would go 10 pages strong! Another hypothesis- z therapy carbs use the gross jets- correct? Is there a different interaction between these jets and stock needles? Still leaning( no pun intended) towards a low float level which is causing an insufficient amount of fuel at stock settings. It seems that it has been determined that the engine is running lean and his vacuum is strong at idle. If richining the mixtures at the knob doesn't improve anything does NOT eliminate a bad float setting. The two must work together-IMHO

That's just by chance the link is on #3, that means nothing unless you can see the other shiny link.