madkaw

I really wanted a CAI for my Mikuni's, but the choices are slim or costly. I like improvising and was trying to come up with a CAI that I wouldn't have to fabricate from scratch. Looking at the valve cover I realized that the size was right for an airbox, and as far as cosmetics, I think it fits. Some might think its hokey, but I like it and it should work well enough. I still have a lot of clean up and polishing to do, but it has been one of those enjoyable projects. I just need to get my 3" piping to finish my mock up. I should be able to come off with some 45 elbows to get the pipe out in front of the radiator. The most expensive part of this project was paying a welder. I don't have the means to weld aluminum, or this project would have been next to nothing as far as costs. Between paying the welder and piping I will have 250$+ in this. The TMW box is 400$ plus then you would also be buying your piping.

Sound like you need to do some more investigating before you throw out that question. How could you make a decision like that without knowing the actual condition of the motors-i.e. compression or leak down test. Just because the L28 has a little more cc's doesn't mean it will be stronger or a better motor. It is all about tuning and getting the most of what you have.

I think your experiment is only going to prove the transitional-not a steady cruise scenerio. ...and if your going to deviate from the FSM, then go in there and set the needles FLUSH with the groove on the piston. This can only help your cruise mixture-and try that on the road. Then go really crazy and richen up those floats. I won't tell anyone;)

So was there any impact on your AFR numbers? Gaskets could easily be made, just go buy some gasket material. I have still not read anywhere that it was verified that the fuel level was visible in the jets after removing the piston. It should be right there at the top.

My comment on sealer was more based on the fact that you be using a gasket that has a graphite layer to help seal. The sealant probably won't even stick to that gasket. As far as my closure comment--all in good fun and I would be as meticulous as you

I have been looking at the Lokar web site and trying to figure out what kit you have. So these are about 150$ ?? It does look good and I bet it is smooth operation

Could you please speed up the process a little-we need some closure here:) Is that sealant I see on the old gasket? If so,don't use any on that new gasket

Thanks Sam , looks like I will be doing the same thing as you. I already made a stay that I think will work. Now that I have seen your set- up I feel better about my idea.

Sam, I believe I have those same instructions, but I didn't get the "stay holder" as they call it. Plus my lever rod was different. This was a slightly used kit , so I might be missing something.

Mitchell, is that a kit and does the cable bracket bolt directly to the side of the carb?

THanks for the advisement, I have been considering the cable set up and might have to go that route .

Like the title says, I need some visual help on putting together my linkage from my PHH 40 Mikunis to the firewall of my 71-240. I have been studying pics on this site and others but not having much luck seeing what i want to see. I am running a Mikuni shorty manifold. The kit I bought had an extra bellcrank with a ball on it for the rod and ball linkage. Presently I am thinking of cutting my SU rod and mounting this bellcrank on it and doing something like that.(I will post a pic when this is done), but like to see what others have come up with. So if you have any close-ups of the firewall set-up that would be great.

When the previous owner installed the r200, how did they connect the rear of the rear control arms? The reason I ask is that the r200 won't fit with certain brackets that connect the rear control arms. The PO might have made his own bracket and made it too wide causing toe in.

How much oil did you loose or how much did you wind up putting back in after your incident ? Ruining your battery will cause running issues without sufficient charge to your ignition. Grounding problems will also effect engine performance. Do all you can before deciding to crack open your engine

How do you know you have the engine at 10 BTC static if you haven't got it running yet? Have you verified that the rotor is sitting on the #1 plug wire with engine at TDC? Did the machine shop do the final assembly or you? Is it possible that the valve timing is wrong, have you verified that?

Finally finished installing my Subaru LSD diff with a 3.90 ratio. My thanks to John Coffey for making this swap happen by having axles made. This will be sweet to have a newer(2005) diff. Hopefullly the newness will mean quietness and better traction too!!!!!!!!!!

Jaguar SU's maybe?

Good job!!!!!

I believe Olzed has it right, you have the timing too far off to adjust, and it is advanced. It's usually best to just start over again and get the engine at TDC and look at everything. At TDC the rotor iniside the dizzy should point to the #1 plug. I've noticed most dizzy caps have some kind of notch or bump on the outide that lines up with where #1 plug should line up when the cap is secured in place. This needs to be very close or you will have the situation you have now. Get the motor to TDC compression stroke #1. Try to make sure it's compression stroke by hearing or feeling the compression building at the #1 plug hole. You shouldn't need to pull your valve cover, just put your finger over the hole or loosen the spark plug enough to hear or feel the compreesion building. Take the cap off and check rotor alignment. If off, then remove dizzy to check alignment of shaft to the oil pump. It should look just like the Haynes manual at the proper O'clock position. Make sure whn you do check timing after getting the car running again that you disconnect the vacuum advance from the dizzy and plug the line.

Timing light? Do you have one ?

My SU's are awesome and I don't believe the carbs make the engine. BUT- I have a set of PHH 40's that I can't wait to get on my L24. Nice ride all the same!

Liking the blue color- nice work!

Thanks for the info - I need to put a mechanical gauge on there. I noticed on the video I made that my pressure was at 60 at idle. I am on my second rear main seal and it is still leaking. I have searched and excessive pressure manifests itself sometimes with a leaking rear main. I DO have a high volume pump with HP spring, not sure about an obstruction.

Leon, nice thread- thanks. I have someone sending me a stock spring to compare. I believe my spring is thicker winds thus stiffer. Oil pressure is 60 when warm- at idle! I have been fighting a leaking rear main and want to look at oil pressures closer. I am going to run a mechanical gauge in parallel with the factory gauge to verify readings

Are the HP springs longer or do they have a different wind or wire thickness? Good question?