madkaw

Not sure what your saying here??? Flow out the cam oilers improved(what do you mean by cam oilers?). I would associate cam oilers with the spray bar-but you say you removed it. Oil shot out of the cam holes in my experiment. I was kind of suprised the pressure of the oil coming out. Don't remember how long recovery time was as far as getting oil back up to pressure. I know it took a major drill to do this experiment.

I did enlarge the oil passage. I handed the how to modify book to my engine builder and he followed all the suggestions- including that one. Steve, working off of a I phone so not any good at copying links. I found it by searching 'spray bar'

Search- cam oil investigation

Your probably better off with just the internally oiled. Somewhere in the archives here I have a thread where I experimented using both I couldn't get it to work. The internally oiled cam seemed to rob too much oil from the spray bar and the oil spray didn't even reach the lash pads. I'd like to know how rebello got both to work and proved they both worked

My wifes Forester!!

Steve, I believe he was refering to the cam timing. Deadflo, might want to start your own thread to get help diagnosing your problem.

Really guys, I think you need to cut Ted some courtesy here. Very few posts, but a well thought out question and it's obvious he has done his homework. He was specific in his question and knows Z motors, he didn't ask something dumb like"what do is the timing set at on the L24". He searched!!!! "yawn"-really, I agree with Ted here, not everyone is building race engines, but we are all about learning something different. With your wealth of knowledge John you could have easily been more constructive.

What engine do those rods come from in your proposal?

It sounds like a cool project. There will be the folks who say it's crazy to destroke a l28, but it has been proven that it's not all about displacement. It's more about tuning and building it right. Compression can be maintained if the details of squish are observed. I think it's a harder way to make power as far as a destroked motor, but it makes for interesting read!!!

Thankyou for correcting me Leon.

All these HP are great, but the OP was wanting to make the "club" with his L24. This would be something to really brag about. I'm sticking with my 24 until I've exhausted myself trying to make 200 with it. It's probably going to take a bigger cam and the triples to happen

The e-88 is a good head and has great potential. The 300f is a big cam and you will have to consider other problems like valve to head clearance. I think all original Nissan cams are oiled via the spraybar, so if it's a Schneider cam, then it is internally oiled and probably made off of a virgin core

Boy I would love to see a pic of those combustion chambers!!!!!! The e-88 doesn't get too much attention, but I think the early heads are the ticket for streetable power. IMHO

Please post up your numbers and I wish you luck on your 200hp goal. It is not easily attainable and the butt dyno is very decieveing. I thought my little 2.4 was stout and it turned out 155hp on the dyno. That's good for a 2.4, but no where near the 200 goal. My carbs were out of balance and tune badly, so I know it has more, but 200 would feel amazing. can't imagine I would need a V-8 after that.

Not only put you over 200hp, but you might not have to retard that timing if you get more fuel to the engine. Just curious what exact head is used for your motor Julio.

I think the lesson learned there is that it is the sum of the parts. Throwing triples on a badly tuned engine or not knowing how to tune the carbs will give some bad numbers all day long. The turbo is the easier way to go though!!!!!

Wow, Rebello is BS now. You really think 212 HP is that far out there. I also disagree that 200hp wouldn't be streetable. Not sure what you mean about "options" on your L28, but I thought it was accepted that hp was was not a bolt on option for these engines, but rather a product of lots of experience with these engines and tuning. I do think the OP doesn't have an idea of what it would take to get 200hp with his L24, so he might need to rethink his stradegy

1/2 pint would do one side of the floor- it goes a long way. The hardest part is not to put it on too heavy. Try and put it on as thin as you can- it flows out really well

Send your engine to Rebello and get the purist mod done . Set you back some serious $$, but it will be done right.

Alignment can effect gas mileage. Whats your timing set at and is your vacuum advance working properly?

Rota RB hyper black-17X8.5 +4 offset, 245/45 general ultima tires 1" lowering springs ST Slight rubbing rear tires on sidewall

Mitchell, have you noticed any difference in your power braking? I am considering a vacuum log for my Mikunis to connect all the ports to increase vacuum for my booster. Also, I have been making my heat sheild myself and noticed the accelerator pump linkage has a long throw and I actually had to punch holes in my sheild to allow for travel. Looking at your sheild i am suprised you have enough clearance for full travel of the pump linkages.

Well my car has been apart for a while now for various things-which most importantly is replacing my head gasket. I am debating whether to pull my motor to attack this rear main seal leak. Today I was looking at some videos I made of my car while driving. The oil pressure guage was visible in a lot of the videos and I noticed the guage was almost always right of center towards the middle of 45-90. So I am running a consistant 60lbs of pressure? I have read that the scale should be 10lbs per 1000rpms. This is not holding true for my car. If I am running 60lbs at 3000rpm, what am I running when I am near 6k? I know these guages are not the best and I am going to hook up a manual guage for when i am back on the road. I guess the question here is if the guage is correct, would this be too much for my seal?? I think I ordered the zx turbo pump when I put this car together and i messed with the pressure springs while experimenting with my spray bar and cam. So maybe I left the high pressure spring in there and i need to check this out. Looks like I need to search and refresh my memory on the springs and what a stock spring looks like.

I believe they have been measured before by different members and they are all the same length. Basically any r180 halfshaft is the same

There are a lot of posts about cleaning out tanks. For now you might want to use a clean chain and some kind of cleaner solvent and swish it around the tank till your arms fall off- The chain will take a lot of the loose rust off. Then you can coat it with some kind of sealer. You might be able to find a radiator shop that will clean it out for you. Take a close look inside your sending unit. Blow out the lines with some air.