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madkaw

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Everything posted by madkaw

  1. madkaw
    I am so freakin jealous! Two cars I love on the same track running against(sort of) each other. I can't wait to get some track time.
  2. madkaw
    what he said
  3. madkaw
    Thanks for the heads up on the washers. Just called Nissan and straightened things out.
  4. madkaw
    Put your numbers in Mike and they come up under courtesy as stoppers at 10$ each - ouch! Didn't say upper or lower, but I assume they are the same and I will 4'of them
  5. madkaw
    Bushing is 554756-4300, so the numbers are different
  6. madkaw
    It was an error that I removed the bushing shell, so now I will have to finish the deal. I was running urethane before this on my r200 and it wasn't too bad. I think it does have a lot to do with the diff. I would prefer quiet but less work:) Mike that part number looks like the bushing part#. I might need to call courtesy. This STI diff swap is turning into more work than I planned- but doesn't everything
  7. madkaw
    Mike, So the washers also have rubber embedded in them? I'm not sure what I am seeing there. Damn, I wish I hadn't removed the bushing now and went urethane. If you have that part# for the washer I would appreciate it. Looking at your finished product I think I would want the flange to lay flatter, but your right-it probably won't go anywhere. I am thinking of trying a truck repair shop since these type bushings would probably be more common there or a suspension shop that installs suspension bushings. These bushings remind me of the bushings that were installed in my old 1969 chevy c-10 trailing arms-which I made a bushing installer out of some pipe.
  8. madkaw
    I like the thread on hybridz that utilizes the Subaru rack and ps complete. Being an owner of a 96 impreza I am impressed with the steering of it's powered rack. It would be the cheapest alternative- but not the easiest. I have a spare front crossmember and have started my venture in that direction.
  9. madkaw
    Compare notes, but two different situations regarding fuel. Land mizzle isn't running rebuilt carbs! So when you say it doesn't want to rev beyond 4500- what is it doing? Can you be more descriptive ? Does it sputter, miss out, slowly fade, drop off and pick right back up. Be as precise as you can with words
  10. madkaw
    Well I am going this route myself as far as replacing bushing with OEM. My question is about the hardware. Since it was so long ago that I had a moustache bar with the stock bushing I can't remember what hardware(washers,etc..) is used when installing the bar. My urethane kit for my last r200 bar had huge washers on either side of the bushings, but I don't think that is the case with the stock bushings. Any help-pics
  11. madkaw
    Where did it end up in Indiana-maybe Ill see it around!
  12. madkaw
    Sorry, I guess that sounded bad-- didn't it. Okay, well you need to start over and make sure you have covered the basics(loose electrical connections,good battery, charging alternator, good fuel flow). I am usually the first to say -look at the carbs last-but the symptoms warrant another look. Yes the lids are a pain in the a$$, but once you remember how to twist and tilt and turn the bowl lids, it gets much easier. Regardless of the setting you have right now on the floats-adjust them richer. If you go too rich you will know right away when you get it running again-it will be obvious!! Hope this helps
  13. madkaw
    I doubt the points has anything to do with this problem or the engine wouldn't rev up freely with no load-forget that stupid tester. Just make sure your connections are tight on all your wiring. You seem to have the problem under heavy load which requires a strong spark and more fuel. You need to stop whining and pull the float covers off and adjust them floats. It's not that hard once you get the hang of getting the covers off-are we talking 45 minutes? Make sure you are tweaking them the correct way. Did you check the advance yet????? Does the car hesitate or bog UNDER LOAD at any other rpm less than 4500--i.e. pulling up a hill hard in the gas???? =coil
  14. madkaw
    To check your mechanical advance just aim your timing light to your marks on the pulley and hold throttle to atleast 2800 rpm. You might need to make additional marks on the pulley( 6mm is about 5 degrees) . Your mechanical should kick in atleast another 15 degrees from static- maybe 20+ with that dizzy. If the timing doesn't increase this much, then your advance maybe jammed up. I would also invest In a new coil just to eliminate this from the equation. And the correct ohm coil so you can eliminate more stuff like that ballast resistor
  15. madkaw
    Bruce-you crack me upLOL
  16. madkaw
    More than likely it is the rear brakes that will give excessive brake travel. Recheck your adjustment. You might have thought you had the shoes seated properly, but once engaged they seated and caused extra brake pedal travel. Usually pumping will regain this travel-so revisit your rear brakes
  17. madkaw
    Thank you for finishing the thread. We see a lot of threads where folks are stumped and then never hear results if fixed. I have made more stupid mistakes than I can count when working on a car. The problem usually is simple, but that's how we learn, so thanks for sharing your mistake!!
  18. madkaw
    That's an incredible amount of work to do-you truly are determined. I am kind of suprised you are getting away with such little work on the floors since everything else seemed so rusted. keep up the good work.
  19. madkaw
    Sorry Bruce, his symptoms sound like bad float adjustment. Seems like we have had quite a few of these threads lately. Check visually like Bruce stated. Could be a weak charge at the plug. Make sure your getting close to 14 volts while running at the battery. Also check anything related to fuel supply- filters, lines
  20. madkaw
    You know you can buy a cheap voltmeter for less then 10 bucks and you wouldn't have to guess what wire is 12 volts
  21. madkaw
    I see that you didn't mention anything about the plug wires, have they been recently changed? You said it runs better after being warmed up-right? That would indicate a mixture problem. It is hard to compare engine conditions when just revving up motor in neutral compared to while engine is under load. Bad Ignition wires will act fine in the garage revving the engine, but under load the engine will studder. Same as a mixture issue, under load the engine acts completely different and it's requirements are different . Mixture might just be good enough, or there is just enough fuel in the float bowls for revving in the garage, but insufficient under loading.
  22. madkaw
    Like John said-definitely not plug and play. Here some pics of the ones I did on a 73 240. Notice a new untouched pan next to a worked to fit-pan. The pans do not follow the tunnel at all, you have to beat them into submission. I spent probably 40 hours doing this car-because I'm not a bodyman, plus if your rust gets into the foot boards the panels don't cover this. Also, the outboard edge radius is too deep which can put your floor at an angle if you don't catch it. Of course I have ordered panels for a 69 Porsche 911 that weren't any better-welcome to the world of aftermarket!
  23. madkaw
    Wouldn't possibly be a fuel pump wire? I know mine is green, but my 71 was equipped with the wiring for an electric pump.
  24. madkaw
    My 9/71 has a solo red/white in that area. It has a connector at that area and the wire runs into the engine bay area and it comes from the dash area. It's probably a 14 guage wire. I can trace it down later if that is what your talking about, and I can take a pic if that helps.
  25. madkaw
    Sarah, you did have the throttle pryed wide open during test?( I know I shouldn't ask this with you, but just checking:)) Valve lash is wear I would go first.
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