madkaw

Well I am going this route myself as far as replacing bushing with OEM. My question is about the hardware. Since it was so long ago that I had a moustache bar with the stock bushing I can't remember what hardware(washers,etc..) is used when installing the bar. My urethane kit for my last r200 bar had huge washers on either side of the bushings, but I don't think that is the case with the stock bushings. Any help-pics

Where did it end up in Indiana-maybe Ill see it around!

Sorry, I guess that sounded bad-- didn't it. Okay, well you need to start over and make sure you have covered the basics(loose electrical connections,good battery, charging alternator, good fuel flow). I am usually the first to say -look at the carbs last-but the symptoms warrant another look. Yes the lids are a pain in the a$$, but once you remember how to twist and tilt and turn the bowl lids, it gets much easier. Regardless of the setting you have right now on the floats-adjust them richer. If you go too rich you will know right away when you get it running again-it will be obvious!! Hope this helps

I doubt the points has anything to do with this problem or the engine wouldn't rev up freely with no load-forget that stupid tester. Just make sure your connections are tight on all your wiring. You seem to have the problem under heavy load which requires a strong spark and more fuel. You need to stop whining and pull the float covers off and adjust them floats. It's not that hard once you get the hang of getting the covers off-are we talking 45 minutes? Make sure you are tweaking them the correct way. Did you check the advance yet????? Does the car hesitate or bog UNDER LOAD at any other rpm less than 4500--i.e. pulling up a hill hard in the gas???? =coil

To check your mechanical advance just aim your timing light to your marks on the pulley and hold throttle to atleast 2800 rpm. You might need to make additional marks on the pulley( 6mm is about 5 degrees) . Your mechanical should kick in atleast another 15 degrees from static- maybe 20+ with that dizzy. If the timing doesn't increase this much, then your advance maybe jammed up. I would also invest In a new coil just to eliminate this from the equation. And the correct ohm coil so you can eliminate more stuff like that ballast resistor

Bruce-you crack me upLOL

More than likely it is the rear brakes that will give excessive brake travel. Recheck your adjustment. You might have thought you had the shoes seated properly, but once engaged they seated and caused extra brake pedal travel. Usually pumping will regain this travel-so revisit your rear brakes

Thank you for finishing the thread. We see a lot of threads where folks are stumped and then never hear results if fixed. I have made more stupid mistakes than I can count when working on a car. The problem usually is simple, but that's how we learn, so thanks for sharing your mistake!!

That's an incredible amount of work to do-you truly are determined. I am kind of suprised you are getting away with such little work on the floors since everything else seemed so rusted. keep up the good work.

Sorry Bruce, his symptoms sound like bad float adjustment. Seems like we have had quite a few of these threads lately. Check visually like Bruce stated. Could be a weak charge at the plug. Make sure your getting close to 14 volts while running at the battery. Also check anything related to fuel supply- filters, lines

You know you can buy a cheap voltmeter for less then 10 bucks and you wouldn't have to guess what wire is 12 volts

I see that you didn't mention anything about the plug wires, have they been recently changed? You said it runs better after being warmed up-right? That would indicate a mixture problem. It is hard to compare engine conditions when just revving up motor in neutral compared to while engine is under load. Bad Ignition wires will act fine in the garage revving the engine, but under load the engine will studder. Same as a mixture issue, under load the engine acts completely different and it's requirements are different . Mixture might just be good enough, or there is just enough fuel in the float bowls for revving in the garage, but insufficient under loading.

Like John said-definitely not plug and play. Here some pics of the ones I did on a 73 240. Notice a new untouched pan next to a worked to fit-pan. The pans do not follow the tunnel at all, you have to beat them into submission. I spent probably 40 hours doing this car-because I'm not a bodyman, plus if your rust gets into the foot boards the panels don't cover this. Also, the outboard edge radius is too deep which can put your floor at an angle if you don't catch it. Of course I have ordered panels for a 69 Porsche 911 that weren't any better-welcome to the world of aftermarket!

Wouldn't possibly be a fuel pump wire? I know mine is green, but my 71 was equipped with the wiring for an electric pump.

My 9/71 has a solo red/white in that area. It has a connector at that area and the wire runs into the engine bay area and it comes from the dash area. It's probably a 14 guage wire. I can trace it down later if that is what your talking about, and I can take a pic if that helps.

Sarah, you did have the throttle pryed wide open during test?( I know I shouldn't ask this with you, but just checking:)) Valve lash is wear I would go first.

Can you elaborate on the "rev at tip in"? So are you saying that car stumbles at initial tip-in? Or just reving it up in the garage. I would think at initial tip-in you would have plenty of fuel in the bowls, it would be prolonged loads that would drain your bowls with an insufficient pump.

Justin, just did a search- thanks for the idea. I had checked my PVC system for excessive pressure, but never crossed my mind about the bypass valve. Of course that would mean that oil has been bypassing my filter-YIKES ! I hope your right though and I won't have to pull the Motor to screw with that rear seal again

Oil pressure relief valve????? I'm curious but also stumped- can you elaborate on this please?

Yes I did

I enjoyed my time driving and tuning on my car this summer, but right now the car is down and out for a while. I've had a pesky oil leak around the rear main that I can seem to resolve. I've change out rear main seal and oil pan gasket with negative results. I think I might have scarred up my crank around the seal trying to get the old one out. I'm getting to the point that I can't work under a car anymore because of buldging discs in my neck---probably caused by too much working underneath my car. Then my head gasket gave out for some unknown reason and I hate the unknown. There is nothing that jumps out at me to why the gasket gave out-which hopefully means that nothing is wrong and I just had bad luck with this gasket. I ordered a new Nismo gasket for 150$ two weeks ago and still haven't seen it yet. I am going to take the head back to the machine shop that did the work on it to check for flatness. Good new looking at the head is that I didn't see anything that looked like damage from detonation. So my list for this winter is getting bigger, but the list has too many items that I am redoing-which sucks. I am going to have to find a helper so i don't over do my neck issues. I told my son to try and find an older high school kid that is a motorhead and wants to make some money over the winter. I figure under direct supervision I can get some help with the hard labor stuff and maybe we can teach each other some stuff. Too bad my son isn't into the cars like me, but that's okay he is a straight A student and an athlete so his time is limited. Well I probably cried enough:cry:--time to come up with a plan.

Very nice-I'm partial to Red z's!! It's hard to tell from pics-- but I am truly impressed with your garage paint job.

I am like Captain, 3 practice trys and making doubles-wow. Seriously though, I would suspect that area first for any problems. I tried doing my own flaring with two different tools and finally gave up because I didn't want my brakes left to 'chance'.Plus some of my lines ran inside the car and didn't want any leaks there. As always Sarah you impress me with your mechanical ability

Without reading the whole thread- you should always do one side at a time so you have an example to go by. You will find that a medium size vise grips are your friend when it comes to working on brakes-'especially them damn springs. Of course there is a special tool for drum brakes too! Becareful attempting to flare brake lines- it is an art to itself and will leak if not done right.

The reasons could be many. Fuel tank dirty. Fuel sending unit rusted and clogged. Float needles not working properly. Collapsed fuel hose. Disconnect your fuel line just before your carbs and turn overthe motor to see if fuel is coming out at a reasonable rate. You need to use the process of elimination to narrow down the causes. Start there then report back!