madkaw

Just did a quick comparison of seals. I ordered mine from MSA also which were a Nissan seal and they are definitely thicker then what i pulled out. The ones I pulled out were one piece , but noticably thinner. So the fact that you didn't use sealant Cozy might be offset by the fact that the stock seals fit tighter.

I don't want to pull the main bearing, but man I want to make sure. I don't have the right pulller either. My seals looked like genuine Nissan because they were one piece. I know I had sealant on top of the seal like recommended, am I also suppose to have sealant up in the cavity? Man I don't want to do this again.

Time to fix my rear main seal-wish me luck!

I believe the earlier 240s had that choke lever set-up. The real early models actually had two seperate levers-one for each carb. Then they went to one lever , but still had two slots and it was like that on the early automatics--atleast mine did . Enjoy

The car looks great and love the bright colors on these cars. I almost went with a blacked out rim, but chickened out at the last minute. Congrats

Isn't tweeking part of the fun! Can't do that with the stock stuff. Sarah, you might venture on to the DIY Tune site and and look at the FAQs they have. The site is geared for first timers to the the stand alone world and is pretty user friendly. It was a matter of getting used to the terminology in the EFI world and it's components.

Z trains right-don't even bother thinking about sequential. You can do one step at a time. I suggested the O2 sensor because it gives you a lot of info right away and it looks cool to. It's essential for your MS to work also. For me the next stage is timing-or a way to monitor timing for the eventual MS install. Your MS will need some input on engine rotation, then you will have rpm and AFR info to combine. It's a little bit of a learning curve, but SARAH, you seem to have a handle of things from the posts I've read. I'd predict that you will be helping others with their install in no time.

This little thread is an eye opener for me-especially with JM's statements. I have a T-5 in my car and I never took notice of the ratios and what happened to the rpms until now. I had heard guys like Jon say that the T-5 was not a good trans for N/A motors because of the wide ration between 2nd and 3rd. Watching yesterday I noticed the 1500rpm drop between the 2 gears. I have been very happy with the performance of my motor, but this does help explain the lethargic results I got at the 1/4 track. Not that I am wanting a drag car, but I see now the negative results of this trans. I guess if I eventually go TURBO, I will have the right tranny.

Sarah, you might think about installing a wideband and see what's happening with you mixtures. My car got 30mpg going to Zcon at nashville with a 3.7 LSD and the T-5 trans. I didn't have the wideband then. NOW I have the wideband I realized that my car was running very lean, thus the great MPG. I have dialed the motor in much better with the wideband and still get great mileage. I have to measure again, but now with a 3.54 diff I think I am still around 30 running about 15.0afr at cruise. The wideband will also hook up in conjunction with your MS unit, so you need to do that anyway

Those AFR #s just seem way off. It doesn't seem that the SU's are a good match for that engine combo. Idling around the 10's would foul plugs pretty quick I think. And then to go lean at the upper end is quite a swing. I run around mid 12's at idle and 15's at cruise and 12.5 at WOT. I don't have a real answer for your idel situation, but I know any hangs up in linkage can be a PITA-as stated earlier.

All my body lines were very flush including the hatch front edge to the roof line before installing seals. When I put the inner hatch seal on I swore it elevated the hatch a 1/4". It has settled some, but it had to be the sea.l

It sounds like you installed correctly. The flat part does glue down on the gutter area but I believe it had a cupped part that caught the turned up sheet metal around the hatch. It could be that your new inner hatch seal is so stiff that it doesn't allow thr hatch to touch the outer seals. I never really checked that close, but my car is an hour away or i would. I do remember my hatch fitting very snug and a bit sprung against the inner seal.

I'm jealous

I have my SU's running at 14.8 at cruise and around 12.2 wot. I would think that you could dial them to a leaner mixture at cruise, but wot looks good. My idle is about 13. Your stumbling sure sounded like accelerator pump issue, so it sounds like you got a handle on i!

Another pic from the rear

I believe I have several threads on this since I am running about that same set-up. I have 245/45/17's all the was around on 1" lowering springs-stock struts. s-30 9/71 I think on the rear you will work out perfect. I rub on the inner portion of the wheel well with my +4 offset wheels-8.5inch wheel. The +10 offset should help you clear that obstacle and there should be ample room on the perch--BUT this is on my 17" wheel set-up,sssoooooo it could be different. The fronts are going to be an issue. The +10 will put you right aginst the perch. I had to flatten the perch on one side for the tire to clear. It gave me 1/4" of clearance. You can gain a 1/4 to a half inch by flattening the perch because the springs have that much slop in the perch. You might need a spacer to get you off the perch. This a VERY tight fit with 245's, but looks bad as hell. Again, my car has 17" wheels, so it could be different for you. Also, I am in the process of slotting my rear towers to bring my camber in to clear the wheel well and it is working out well so far. I slotted the strut holes by 1/4" and it helped tremendously and my camber is still only 3/4 degree negative. Hope that helps. I believe I have a whole thread with pictures on Hybridz

Sweet, thanks for keeping up with this thread. I wish i wasn't in the middle of moving or I would takle this right away. I hate oil leaks ---especially on a car I restored, it just looks bad. I want to drive this car to Nashville TN this weekend, but I am concerned with going having this oil leak. It only leaves a spot about 3" in diameter after sitting in the garage, but curious if it could go chatostrophic on me on a long drive. I hardly notice anything on the dip stick, but worried just the same. I don't want to go to TN unless I can cruise the Z!!!!

Thanks, this is what CZCC is all about, making less work for your Z brother! I just don't want to pull that trans again, my rotor cup in my shoulder still hurts. I would gladly pull the oil pan over pulling the trans any day. I actually recieved those seals with one of my gasket purchases , but just looked at them and had no clue since the engine was basically assembled by the engine shop. I will take your advice and get the better seals from MSA or Nissan. I ordered a felpro oil pan gasket a while ago and it's sitting there ready to go.

Well I guess i am on the same path as you because my car is still lealing in that corner, so it must be the side seals---which for life of me can't remember anything about them. So I need to pull the oil pan to fix these??????-someone enlighten me please.

Well he did follow up his 'sick' statement with a very clear -"is that boosted"!

Might give us some more info so we can help. Paint stripper should be left to jobs where the paint is not sandable. In the most part a factory primer will be in good enough shape to feather out and reprime. If you start down the road of paint stripper you will have to go to bare metal and PROPERLY recoat the base metal. Don't use paint stripper if you think it will be faster then sanding, use paint stripper because it is necessary.

:rolleyes:I don't think he gets it

So I have posted here that I bought my daughter a 1981 280zxt a couple of years ago. It turned out to be a fun car for here for a couple of years at college-even amongst all the fixes it endured. Her traveling became too far and often for the car to be her daily driver so we decided to part with it. She didn't mind too much since her replacement is a 2007 WRX, but it didn't compare to the fun of the T-top Z. I put the car on craigslist and had to endure the various low ballers and no shows. Then some guy says he wants to buy it and wanted to drive up from Louisville(about 2 hours) to come get it. He had been looking for that specific year,color. He told me he owned a bar in Louisville(ZANZABAR) and he would bring me a shirt---sure, I'll believe you when i see you. Anyway, he showed and loved the car, and brought me a shirt and drove off to Louisville. I'm still not buying the bar owner bit---but his cash spent just like money! He invited the family down for lunch if we were in the area. Just so happens my son was swimming in at a swim meet at Lakeside in Louisville, so we stopped in. Well the picture tells it all and the Z bar is definetly worth checking out if your in the area--very cool.

So I wish I had more powerful motor and and a better stereo and a rear main seal that doesn't leak, but when I drive around town and some young lad(reminds me of myself at that age) pulls up along side of me and gives me the thumbs up and yells--"That's sick dude", it does make me really proud of the old Z. It reminds me why I fell in love with the design---it's timeless in it's appeal. In the same drive around town I have some other gentleman closer to my age giving me the same thumbs up while he honks his horn. Earlier in the McDonalds some young girl is determined what kind of car that is, because it's so cool. "No it's not a vette, keep trying" I smile! So as I contemplate the prospect of buying a real supercar before I'm too old to enjoy, I wonder if I will get the same enjoyment from my car. So if I buy a 911 turbo, will people be trying to guess what cool car that is that I'm driving? I won't be able to say I did most of the work on the car. I surely won't be able to make improvements or 'fiddle' with the timing. Maybe I should just take those huge payments towards the 911 and use them to continue my Z journey. Boy-think about the SICK things I could do to my Z!!!!!!

I did read a lot of issues with guys not being able to run their caps with these wheels. I bought the wheels anticipating this, but I guess my Wildwoods allowed the cap to work-but I remember it was tight. Haven't lost a cap yet. So just buy some 1500$ brakes and your problems will be solved!!!!