madkaw

Unfortunately that probably won’t be a for a while . The chassis is at the body shop getting a roof on presently . Been there for months . Hoping the slow down in business will get my car some attention .

What a moron

Not sure of your fuel pump set up , but I was running an electrical pump on mine . I would shut my fuel off about a block from getting to my house . This empties the float bowls which just vent to the atmosphere sitting in your garage . If they are basically empty - no fuel smell from there . Also - switching to triples usually doesn’t allow for a vent trap systems for the gas tank . How is the gas tank vented ?

I guess I left this hanging . So I started the 3.2 and I couldn’t ask for a better initial start. I had to a bit of guessing on required fuel for my ECU since I upped the cc’s. I was worried about getting a good initial idle and a good AFR to properly break in the rings . She fired right off and idled at about 1500 or more for a good 15 minutes . My fan didn’t kick on so it started to get a little warm and I shut it down . Now it was time to go load the motor with a test drive . I decided to pull the plugs to look at them and dam it if I still was getting oil in #6 . So - the only thing left is the head itself . As much as I hated to do it I had to pull the head . Months later the head is still in the shop basically because the machinist has had health issues . I got a call from him here recently to come look at the head . He was scratching his head because he had pulled the guides on 6 and they were in there good, so no crack . I told him that even by the wiggle test the intake was to loose in the guide - just comparing to the exhaust side . The intake valve had more play then the exhaust . He did not have a ball gauge for that small of a guide . I stared at everything for it seemed hours and I did find something of interest . I found some scoring at the top of the valve around the seal area. Not much , but it had a bit of an edge that I could catch a finger nail on. I told him I’d find another valve and replace the guides . MEANWHILE - he had my P90 head there to be cleaned . Loosing faith in my MN for now I told him to touch the valves on the p90 and shave .080 off . Well he got that done first so guess what head is going on ! Might as well change the title of this thread to “Whatever runs” !

Very sweet idea . Even the best of us can’t get that damn shaft to line up the first time . Though I hope to never deal with that again - I REALLY like the idea . I actually considered scribing the timing cover for the vague 11:25 position

Lovely!

This is my biggest beef . I’ll admit I don’t like the guy . I’ll admit I didn’t vote for him. I’ll admit that I’m hoping something good will come out of his mouth . Most everything is misleading , egotistical, and contradictory to the experts . This is bad in a time like this . He is not up to the task . Just let the team handle it . Let Dr Fouchi make the decisions . He has lost his credibility at this point - so this will be an obstacle in this fight

Not sure that year had the infamous MN head . I think it’s more the 81-84 engines

Unfortunately we are all paying the price of fake news and disinformation in society right now . Politics have skewed science . Also, to many variables to compare countries . China air quality , smoking population , density of population all contributors to this . What scares me is when I hear from people they don’t even watch the news anymore , so they are not informed and make decisions based on that premise . Ignorance will play a bit part too. USA will probably benefit from our supply network and variance of populated areas . Listen to the scientists , not the politicians is my 2 cents

I know soon enough when I cut the cars up. I will be comparing for sure .

My 9/71 has vertical defrost lines . I thought there was a huge thread on this somewhere ? My car also had the e-88 head with the e-31 combustion chambers . My car has no pockets for seat belts . There’s lots of transition things in hose months . My car has pillar vents

I have not measured , but they seem to be the advertised 18 gauge which is plenty thick for the floors . I think 16 gauge would be better for her floor frame rails, but can not say whether 16 is stock thickness or not . If installed correctly these floors would look more stock then previous ones I installed( I’ve only done floors once before ) . The seat pedestals are better than anything else on the market - that I know of . I still remember having to beat the snot out of my Zedd floors to get the tunnel side to fit correctly . It was also hard to maintain a level floor install for some reason - maybe the stamping was slightly off or just user error ?

Yes I did . I have not fitted them, but put them up against the floor and they seem to be a good match . I not sure they are the same thickness of Zed Findings, but their shape seems to be better for the early S-30 . They look exactly like the photo above. The floors don’t come with the extension pieces for front and back , I guess you have to order the whole kit to get them ? I emailed them to ask for those pieces and have not got a reply. They also didn’t send shipping info so I had no idea when they were coming . Packing wasn’t the best either , but it all survived . The seat pedestals and frame rails also look good as a match. Again I thing the 18 gauge is lighter then the Zed’s floor frame rails . I got all of it 3 days after the order so it all came very quickly . I can post pics if someone wants

I’ve got extra stock cams for early heads - spray bar . That doesn’t look terrible but could be source of tick. Sometimes these motors tick a little . Rocker condition should be inspected . Stay with stock cam - cmon - cam it !!!!!

So I just got off the phone with Klassic Fab . Very nice on the phone and apologized for the website snafu . He split shipping cost with me to make up for the inconvenience . They should be here next week so stay tuned . Sounds like I might be customer number 2 right now . I ordered floors, seat rails , frame rails .

Here ya go

Okay- so ordered I complete set of these floors . I get an email stating that they have web site issues and that’s why the rails aren’t on there . Then they go on to say that they will need help with the cost of shipping . No where in the check out of my PayPal transaction was shipping mentioned . They asked for my contact phone number but I have not received a call yet . They also have not responded to my email . They also have about 1000$ of my money . Not exactly impressed .

I’d remove it - one less thing to go bad . Cleans up the wiring . Just me

I talked with Performance shock in CA and they said both the Koni and Bilsteins would be money ahead to replace them to repair . Anyone want a set of used shocks ?

He’s right - there’s alternatives . With the Megasquirt I would want to go all in and have it run everything though . HEI would be nifty .

I don’t know if I would characterize the dizzies as unreliable , but it is old stuff . I think if you had a spare module on hand and cleaned the dizzie up well you should be okay. The module failing is probably the only thing that will disable you - vs a sticky vacuum advance . In the end , even with rebuilding everything you can - it’s still (car)a mechanical item and there’s Murphy’s law - and it’s over 45 years old .

I like the point about the tunnel shape . That is a big deal compared to what’s available now . Zed Findings floors are well made but don’t follow the tunnel shape correctly on the early Z .

I’ve used the same method using the main bolts

The ZX dizzies have plastic plates which can break and lock up because they won’t properly rotate - ie. the vacuum advance plate . With my build I ran without a vacuum advance because of my cam and just eliminated the vacuum assembly - worked fine . I just ran a high initial advance and it worked out alright . I would see if you can buy one remanded if it’s cheap enough and take the risk vs paying 400$ to buy and rebuild it . The 123 ignition looks pretty good at this point . Id run what you got . Clean up the advance assembly and make sure the vacuum advance works

And.... I talked to someone about rebuilding the Koni fronts and they said I would be money ahead replacing instead of rebuilding . So we are all back to a rear set of Bilsteins.