madkaw

I doubt the autozone caliper is "new", but remanufactured to new specs. The rebuilt kit price is a little high-is that genuine Nissan stuff? I think original brake equipment is good stuff and if resonable I would rebuild. Datsun used some quality materials on their wheel cylinders and Master cylinders-as well as calipers. Then again, the calipers are so simple that I don't think a reman company could rebuild it wrong-so I wouldn't worry about buying a rebuilt. Hope that helps.

Hey, I'm 5 minutes from the airport in Indy. You can come hang out , but bring some work clothes because my Z should be back from the paint shop and my family will be out of town on vacation and I will be overhauling-Z style.

No modding to get the spoiler on, just hours of fitting and heating the fiberglass so it wasn't such a sprung fit. Carl, Good luck to you too, I know how these paint jobs go. I actually went over to the painter today and disassembled the car for him so he can shoot the engine compartment. Damn i can't wait to see it done!

After years(about 15) of owning this car, and fixing everyone elses car, I am finally getting close to getting her painted. It is really more then a paint job since I am resto-modding everything as I go, but you can't do anything until the color is on. I have everything rebuilt(engine, interior, ect..) waiting on the paint so I can put it all back together. Now the tough part is to choose the right color. The color was originally silver and she is going back silver, but which one? That has been the million dollar question here lately. I wish I could see a quality paint job somewhere with the original Datsun silver so i can compare. I think I will go with something newer though, something with a little POP in it. I'll take any suggestions. There was a nice 240 in Nashville Indiana at the Brown County car show that had a late model Saab silver that was very nice. I want to find a silver that isn't very white, but rather some substance to it as being a little darker but with a lot of bling. The newest 350z silvers are too lite in color. I have even considered the Pontiac galaxy silver or the Pontiac Pewter metallic. I am considering putting a larger metal flake in the paint to give it some zing.

Arne, great info as always. I have made my own "clifford" system with one exception, I put a crossover pipe between the the duals. I also used glasspacks. I wish I could play some sound for you, but the car is still in the paint shop.

I swear I have read a thread on this , but can't seem to find it now. I know someone has fitted later year interior plastic panels on an earlier year. We all know how flimsy the first 3or 4 years are, but the 260z the panels got considerably thicker-but will they fit? I can't imagine there could be that much of a difference and I am not interested in originality of the early panels, as much as the durability of the later years. I have 2 complete sets that are excellent, 240 and 260. I would rather paint the 260 panels and use them over my perfect 240 set because I know they will last longer. I need the sell one of the sets, but I want to make sure I can use the 260 set in my 71. I would appreciate any comments.

Well I finally got to see all the pieces together in my daughter's car. I am still missing some fasteners and the SEM paint I got doesn't match the interior tan color like I thought .I got a SEM paint card and picked the Buckskin color, but now I think the color might be Palamino instead. Whenever I get the color right I will probably reshoot all the plastic pieces that show significant wear. I hope my Z turns out this well.

I've done a little of this stuff, but not a lot of vinyl stretching. It is an art, especially when the curves are compound. I plan on covering the plastic panels on my 240, but they proven to be a challenge-the quarter window panels are a bitch. I order stuff from -yourautotrimstore-. I bought a sample book so I could match up colors. I would like to get good enough to do this for some side money. Think of all the 280zx panels that need this done;) Your right about the age of this cars being the confusion factor!

Man, looking at this thread just makes me cringe that I haven't heard my own system run yet. Soon the car will be painted and then vroom baby. That system looks nice and oughta sound good, I am only using one set of glasspacks, but I installed an X pipe hoping to kill some of the resonance. I might have to get a quieter muffler eventually. That narrow tunnel makes it hard to fit anything in there. I just went with some tips that looked good Some pics of mine-- Can't wait to hear the sound

Well I haven't posted on the ZX side of this site before , so I guess it's time. Man this side of the site is pretty dead-not much love for the s130 I guess. Actually I haven't paid much attention to them either, but I bought my daughter a decent 81zxt, and she loves it. Just today her friends(she's 19) said they thought she was driving a Porsche. She also said she felt COOL in that car. Anyway, the car needs a little of everything, but not a lot of anything. Today was interior day and I decide to tackle the rear vinly covered panels that are tore up on every ZX. I like doing this kind of work, but I am limited to warm weather because it is not indoor work with an attached garage. I will also be covering my 9/71 plastic panels with vinly too, but I am practicing with my daughters car. I atleast got lucky with the color match, and I got lucky with the whole job really. Everything went pretty smoothly and also very messy. It's hard to be neat doing this work. I will post my progress on my daughters car just to keep this side of the site alive;)

Well I just got off the phone with Greg giving him the low down on his car. I spent several hours looking over the car to give him my evaluation of the work that needed to be done. We knew that the car needed major work, but now it looks like it might be too much. greg and I decided to post some more pics to see what you guys think. Would you put the time and money into this car or junk it? When does sentimental value outway costs? I guess the only reason we are having this conversation is because of the very low vin#, which does have some bearing on this issue. Some of the things that need to be replaced: Both frame rails forward of firewall-bent and rusted Passenger inner fender-badly damaged passenger firewall-patch replacement Radiator support Rear hatch panel Both rear quarter panels Both floor boards and frame rails

My friend of 25 years paints out of his garage. He painted the car on the thread "midwest Z shop". He does this part time, but does nice work. He is very good at getting the body work straight, I only wish he had a real paint booth. He is on the east side of indy. He is becoming a Z expert thanks to me;) pushing all these Z cars at him. He likes them though since they are small. I am planning on going with the original silver since I love silver on these cars. I was trying to come up with a unique silver color, but anymore I just want her painted so I can drive her again. I will attach a pic of the last car Steve painted.

My car is a 9/71 and seems to have both the early and later attributes. Non reclining seats, blanked dash hole, dual choke levers, ect... So I am saying that the dates are not set in stone.

happy days, my car is finally heading to the paint shop. I've been waiting forever-it seems-to get to this point. It seems like I have been doing everyone elses car http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25483&highlight=midwest+shop but now it is my turn. I can't wait till it gets back so I can put her back together.

Steve, It looks like you have a lot of work ahead. I had to help make a decision like this for a client the other week. his car however is #379, which gives it a little more value. His car was a little better shape, but still a lot of work. If it had been a little worse, or not #379, or a strong sentimental value, I would have gone with arne's advice and told him to look for another body. If I was asked my opinion on your car based on the pics, I would say take some time and try and find another body before you get too determined with that car. That is some pretty bad corrosion. It depends on how you want to look at it--a challenge to your skills maybe . I travel into Collinsville sometime on the CSX railroad. I'd like to see your car sometime. I'd offer my services, but I think you have the skills and determination already, but do you have desire to do that much work on that car. I wish you all the luck.

Just wondering if anyone has had issues filling out information on the MSA website for their order. I had my order ready and went to check out. When I got to check out and started filling out the billing info, about every 3 rd letter I type,the window pops up an hour glass,and nothing types. I have tried this on at least 2 different occassions from 2 different states with the same results. I called and told the representative at MSA and he says the problem is at my end. He offers to let me use my MC, but I was going to paypal. I am convinced that the problem is with their page, but I can't prove that. Maybe other people are experiencing the same problem and just keep reseting their cursor until the info is filled out-which would take forever. Jay at MSA said that they have taken 50 orders today, so everything is working fine. Someone want to chime in on this??

I was just doing this job myself the other day and NOW I find this thread. It's funny how similiar the ideas were on this. I didn't see on these threads how the actual inside drain hose was done, so I am going to post my remedy to this issue. The drain at the cowl is an unusual diameter and I wa having difficulty finding a hose until I was going thru all of my Z junk and stumbled on an old radiator hose. I said to myself," that's it, a radiator hose would have the 90 degree turn and still be smooth and plenty stout." I went down to Autozone and looked thru their shelves and found a hose that was the right diameter and length-8$. Then I went to lowes and bought a 1 -1/4" 90 to a 1" spout and bought the 1-1/4" hose similiar to this thread. The radiator hose was a perfect fit on the cowl drain ID as well as the kick panel OD-very tight. I have about 21$ in this, but the biggest thing I wanted to share was the radiator hose. By the way, cutting the hose at an angle was a great trick, it was funny since I did the same thing before I saw this thread.

I'm glad this thread came up because I had some of the very same questions since I am selling a 73 bumper. I have a 73 bumper that I decided to paint instead of rechrome. I laid it next to my 71 bumper and there is a significant difference in the shape. I didn't even know about the side fillers, but I did get a really nice top filler panel with the bumper. I could see where it would be difficult to use a 73 on any other car. I'll try to remember to post some pics of the differences between the 2 bumpers

Fuel tank? If the symptoms were the same regardless of the engine, then it has to be other components. Could there be a partial restriction in a fuel line or pick-up tube that will not allow maximum fuel flow when approaching 4k rpm. If you haven't had the fuel tank out, it is time to pull it and look at things. You said the original 2.4 did the same thing, did you tranfer accessories like the dizzy to the new engine? There has to be a common denominator somewhere.

I believe it was 5 digits, I think I just added a zero there.

The car was repainted, so maybe the holes were filled after the ID badge was removed or fell off. The good news is that #379 will ride again-----eventually:)

Thanks Dave. I looked for rivet holes or screw holes and didn't see any sign of the ID plate. Were they glued on primarily, or is just mine that is riveted on?

I'm not having much luck researching this, but I looked at number 000379 the other day and I couldn't find the VIN ID Plate. Were the plates in the same place for all years, like on the door jam? The firewall was properly scribed but I wanted to see if the plate said 69' or 70'. thanks

PICS, It sounds like what JimmyZ said in the first post, you are running out of gas. Check your fuel pump output and your filter. Does it act perfectly normal under 4000rpm even under hard acceleration?

Good point about the eyebrowing of the block. I would check cylinder compression before you do anything else. You might have tweeked all of your exhaust valves and now you can't hold compression enough for the car to run properly. What do your plugs look like?