madkaw

I was just doing this job myself the other day and NOW I find this thread. It's funny how similiar the ideas were on this. I didn't see on these threads how the actual inside drain hose was done, so I am going to post my remedy to this issue. The drain at the cowl is an unusual diameter and I wa having difficulty finding a hose until I was going thru all of my Z junk and stumbled on an old radiator hose. I said to myself," that's it, a radiator hose would have the 90 degree turn and still be smooth and plenty stout." I went down to Autozone and looked thru their shelves and found a hose that was the right diameter and length-8$. Then I went to lowes and bought a 1 -1/4" 90 to a 1" spout and bought the 1-1/4" hose similiar to this thread. The radiator hose was a perfect fit on the cowl drain ID as well as the kick panel OD-very tight. I have about 21$ in this, but the biggest thing I wanted to share was the radiator hose. By the way, cutting the hose at an angle was a great trick, it was funny since I did the same thing before I saw this thread.

I'm glad this thread came up because I had some of the very same questions since I am selling a 73 bumper. I have a 73 bumper that I decided to paint instead of rechrome. I laid it next to my 71 bumper and there is a significant difference in the shape. I didn't even know about the side fillers, but I did get a really nice top filler panel with the bumper. I could see where it would be difficult to use a 73 on any other car. I'll try to remember to post some pics of the differences between the 2 bumpers

Fuel tank? If the symptoms were the same regardless of the engine, then it has to be other components. Could there be a partial restriction in a fuel line or pick-up tube that will not allow maximum fuel flow when approaching 4k rpm. If you haven't had the fuel tank out, it is time to pull it and look at things. You said the original 2.4 did the same thing, did you tranfer accessories like the dizzy to the new engine? There has to be a common denominator somewhere.

I believe it was 5 digits, I think I just added a zero there.

The car was repainted, so maybe the holes were filled after the ID badge was removed or fell off. The good news is that #379 will ride again-----eventually:)

Thanks Dave. I looked for rivet holes or screw holes and didn't see any sign of the ID plate. Were they glued on primarily, or is just mine that is riveted on?

I'm not having much luck researching this, but I looked at number 000379 the other day and I couldn't find the VIN ID Plate. Were the plates in the same place for all years, like on the door jam? The firewall was properly scribed but I wanted to see if the plate said 69' or 70'. thanks

PICS, It sounds like what JimmyZ said in the first post, you are running out of gas. Check your fuel pump output and your filter. Does it act perfectly normal under 4000rpm even under hard acceleration?

Good point about the eyebrowing of the block. I would check cylinder compression before you do anything else. You might have tweeked all of your exhaust valves and now you can't hold compression enough for the car to run properly. What do your plugs look like?

Geezer, thanks for keeping me in mind. I am actually suprised someone hasn't started a part# thread. If some of these are available at the dealerships, it would benefit all the member to access this info. Maybe we could just ask Reddat, since he is always selling these OEM stuff on ebay:cheeky: If folks did supply numbers we would make sure that they are valid and they actually recieved their parts using those numbers . I would gladly pay a little more to have OEM parts, and some of this stuff is only available at Nissan.

Well I have a 9/71 and I need to replace all the rubber stuff. The rubber that is not easy to narrow is all the various plugs; example, firewall plugs(A/c lines)1&3/8" size,hatch plugs, door bumpers, floor plugs(I've seen 2 different #'s for these). Cowl panel drain hoses. Door panel fastner receptacles. just some of the stuff for now.

Thanks for the help. Right next to the key number there is usually a smaller column that is either 01 or 02 with each having its own part#. I was looking at rubber plugs and drain hoses for the cowl panel. Maybe sometimes it corresponds to left and right? I am actaully suprised I haven't been able to find more of these #'s just searching on this site. Example-all the different size floor plugs and hatch plugs.

Hey guys, I am trying to put together a list to take the dealer for some various parts. I am using my Zcar microfische and have a question on how to decipher the correct part#. Almost every part has 2 part #, so which one do i use. I will find 2 part numbers that correspond to one picture, they have a 01 or 02 part #, what does that mean? Any help would be appreciated.

Excuse me for just wanting to vent, but it kind of makes me mad when people are rude or inconsiderate in their e-mail interactions-primarily with the classifieds. It seems that folks don't worry about any obligation to finish a transaction, or more likely a conversation ,when it comes to selling or buying. Their are some that post for sale ,or are buying, that don't respond when you contact them , or they respond once to barter, then never heard from again. You wonder if these people would be like this in person. Would they go in a store and ask about a product, then as you are descibing it ,they would just turn around and walk away? That's what happens all the time in the classifieds. I know I shouldn't be suprised ,or I be more thick skinned, but I always try to be polite, and considerate, and conclusive, when making a business transaction. I was even told once that a gentlemen would not sell to me because of my pushy nature. I guess if you don't get a response in a week or more, you should just figure it's sold-even though in this case it wasn't. It turns out he was having personal problems-which is very reasonable-but how was I to know this. Now I an black listed from buying from him because he said"our personalities will clash". Are you kidding me!!!! Or you get the guy who asks you to give him a description and pictures and a shipping quote, and he never gets back with you. How about 'I'm not interested anymore" or "I have found that item cheaper" or "thankyou for your time" . You can't tell me that your life is so hectic that you can't have manners. I have always tried to answer any messages or e-mails especially when concerning to classifieds, and if I missed anyone i apoligize. Maybe I think because the folks on here are fellow Z'ers we would be more considerate to each other(and sometimes it might lead to clinching a deal), but i guess reality is that when it comes to money, nothing ever changes. It's a dog eat dog world out there

IMHO I think you could spice up that 260 to a point that it would keep you happy as far as performance, and not spend a ton, and have something different other then a new nissan. You could get a better flowing head and better carburation(maybe triples), and better gearing(5 speed with 3.7 or 3.9) and improve your 0-60 greatley. These engines are really tough on the bottom end, and though Carl is right that the bottom end rebuild would get you max HP, I think you could just do a top end and be happy and it would run good for a long time. If you already have a nice looking car, you have already covered a big part of the cost of fixing these cars up. Do the suspension and the top end and then make the call for a newer car or not. Good luck

The exhaust sounds great. So how are you going to deal with MSA on the exhaust leak? I wouldn't let it go since you paid good money for a coated header that doesn't have a coating on it anymore(atleast in that spot). It's a shame that you had to go thru that much work on a system that was made for your car. I am glad that I did all the work that I did to make my own because your dilemma would have been very, very frustrating. I am suprise the tail piece was suppose to come out horizontal instead of vertical. I think your suggestion will look good though. Good Luck

Did they tighten the header correctly. That header(that is exactly like mine) is built with a slight bend in the flange. The header needs to be installed using the center bolts first and tightening them first, then the outside last. If not, the flange will not settle on the head correctly, thus not sealing in the center. Granted, i have not run my engine yet, but the flange was the first thing I noticed taking it out of the box and I made the call to MSA, and this is what they told me. So don't quite give up on that header yet. Make sure it is clearing your SU's, if that is what your running. Don't take the shops word for it, go over and look and ask them to retighten the header. Did you use the header type gasket? hope this helps

Thanks guys for the info and help guys, but I hacked her up anyway. The brackets are alright and I have tried every type adjustment. Arne was right and the bumper was wacked on the front which made her spread out. I just cut her down the center and what a difference it made. The bumper wanted to fit now. Since this is going to be a painted bumper I wasn't concerned with being able to hide my work. It only took a little more then a cut-off wheel width to make a huge difference. Now the bumper ends are attached with a rubber washer for a spacer. I couldn't be happoer to get this out of my way- to the paint booth very soon:)

I think I am going to cut a slit on the top and bottom of the center so the bumper will collapse further and give me the ability the custom bend the correct V on the bumper. Then i will just weld it back together. Wish me luck!

Arne, thanks for the pics. I guess I was in denial thinking that my bumper was even close:stupid: I believe that my bumper was slightly bumped in the center since I can draw down the ends ,but then they are spring loaded-badly. I guess I need to rework my bumper so it's not so spring loaded-if I knew how to do that. It doesn't help that my fender was tweeked before in an accident, it doesn't take much to screw up an alignment. I am aware of the rubber ends , but some reason I thought there was a spacer also.

Hey Guys, please look at my pics and evaluate the fitting of my front bumper. I am concerned with the ends especially. I know that there was some kind of spacer between the bumper and the fender, but I can't recall the size and the proper gaps. I know mine is probably wrong , but it will probably be a bit of compromise since I have had passenger side fender damage at one time. I can't seem to get the ends to pull in symetrically and I am not sure how tight the ends are supposed to pull against the fender. Please give me some feedback!

I am jealous RX sleeper, now that is a "shop". I just have a 3 car garage that I try and use effeciently. I actually have 3 cars in there now. My daily driver which is a 2005 Subaru Baja Turbo and my wifes car a 2005 Subaru Forester Turbo(don't know why I got her a turbo-she never uses it). And of course, last but not least, my 71 Z. I probably have a whole another Z upstairs in the garage attic, plus a mini barn with more Z stuff. Usually when the weather breaks the Subies get kicked out for projects like the one I just finished on Derks 71Z. Hopefully the projects keep coming so my garage always looks busy and impressive:classic: Side note: the next house will have a detached garage -no exceptions. My last big gargae was 24X28 detached and I wish I had it back. I never heard statements like ,"what's that awful smell-have you been painting or something". I can't do anything chemical with an attached garage in the winter-it sucks!

I'm sure he thought that Carl. In fact his comment when he saw the car after being painted was something like" I didn't think it would turn out this nice". She was pretty rough when it came to us ,and the owner hadn't seen the car in a year and a half so I think he was pleasantly suprised. I am really getting an appreciation for the folks that do the full blown restos, it is almost beyond description in a thread, it has to be experienced. It will probably be 5 years when I get mine done and it won't even be show quality.

Thanks for the comments guys. I'm glad to hear some more from the Midwest guys. I would love to think I would have time to do this as a full time thing, but I don't think it would pay the bills. I have a good friend that helps me ,and is the painter, and we both hope we can continue to do this for enough years to support our car hobbies. I would prefer to always do the Z cars because they are SMALL ,and fit in my garage nicely, and I am really getting to know my way around the 30 series. I will work on about anything though. I worked on a 1969 911e early this year, that was a sweet little car. I might have a 1971 dodge demon coming to thee garage shortly also.(big and ugly according to the wifeLOL) Actually there seems to be work then time right now, I better get my car done soon or it will be constantly on the back burner .

I have had good luck with duplicolor and they do have a vinyl paint thbat works well on plastic. Sems makes good stuff too. In fact I used both on my dash repair. The duplicolor finish was almost to glossy for me and I dulled it with a little 00steel wool rub down.