madkaw

I took my distributor apart to make sure my mechanical advance was not rusted up. I am not getting spark now and I am thinking I don't have my points grounded properly. Anyone want to help me out here. I knew I should have used this camera BEFORE I took the dizzy apart. I think I have it right but could use some verification.

Warren, I haven't had time to mess with it over the holidays. I will be considering both yours and Mat M's approach. I don't doubt there can still be a dirt issue with this car even though I thought I had fixed this. I also can't wait to update the ignition(pertronixs on order), to elimimate any possible ignition issues. I plan on removing the sending unit and inspecting it closely and then blowing air thru the supply lines. I think I will also inspect the "new" filter to see how it looks. The car still has points, wires with unknown history, autolite plugs-ordered NGKs, and original coil. So I still have things to eliminate in this process. I appreciate you updating us Warren and congrats on your success.

Gary, In my case I did set up carbs according to the z therapy video and it ran great the first time. But now my car is acting like Warrens z and like it has a rev limiter. These fuel pumps spew gas when the diaphram goes bad don't they? 7727, I drove it the first time with the old suspension-which was scary. Any how, I probably won't have time to mess with it until after the holidays so meanwhile i will watch your progress Warren.

I have the same scenerio going on right now. I finally drove a clients car(240) after redoing the whole suspension. Before I tore it down i had done a quick tune-up on a engine that hadn't run in over 10 years. The engine ran strong after putting the rockers back on the valves(another story). I drove it around and it seemed to want to go over 3000rpm but the suspension was scary so I didn't push the issue. Now I have everything back together I want to drive it a little faster but it doesn't want to rev over 3000. I did take the tank out and cleaned it thoroughly when I first got the car. I did notice the SECOND time I took the tank out, when I was doing the suspension , I drained it I found some more crap in the fuel. I couldn't believe there was dirt in the tank because I really cleaned WELL the the first time. Where I'm going with this rambling is that I still might have a dirt issue that is causing a obstruction. I took apart the distributor to see if the mechanical advance was not working and it seems alright. This car still has points but i have convinced the owner to buy pertronix and i am awaiting the delivery of the goods. I want to eliminate the ign ition issues-if any- before looking elsewhere. I will also pull the sender to look at the pick-up to see if anything is clogged. I had a similiar issue with a Kawasaki years ago where it didn't rev over 5k. I never figured it out until just beforte i sold it and it was the mechanical advance. I also wonder about a fuel pump that has sat around dry for years. Is the diaphram cracked or worn that it will not supply ample pressure??

I had intended on putting the car on blocks to torque the bolts and try and find a couple of buddies to sit in the car. My book shows two different torques for the front and rear inner bolts on the rear controls arms- can someone verify the torque values for me? Gary, I figured it was a preload issue but thanks for the verification.

Looking for any suggestions to torque down my suspension after installing new urethane bushings all around. I have read that the control arms need to have the weight of the car and passengers before actally torquing them down, is this true and why? Also, my references seem to be a little confusing when it comes to the torque numbers for each bushing, any good threads for this? My book says the rear control arm- forward inner bushings should be torqued to 100lbs. I don't see how to even get a socket on that bolt to use a torque wrench, and when we are talking 100lbs, aren't we just saying really tight. Not that I take torque values lightly but it's going to be tough to get 100lbs on that bolt laying under the car.

figured it out. emergency brackets were on the wrong side of the car.

Well I am finally putting this car back together after several months and I am a little confused with the rear brakes. Please look at my pics and tell me what I am doing wrong. This is the passenger side of a 71 . I thought the rear shoe slid between the emergency brake lever and the whell cylinder but it hits against the adjuster lever. What am I doing wrong here? I wish I had a memory:stupid:

Brian, I was thinking the same thing as I pulled up your post. The paint is holding up my whole project. My engine and drivetrain is done, my suspension is all redone, I have recovered my seats and have new carpet waiting but I can't bring my self to pay around 5k for a paint job so I am doing the bodywork myself and waiting on a friend to paint it in his garage. It has my morale down too, and I just found out my daughter has been accepted to Indiana University---so you know where my money is going:disappoin I am happy to send my kid to school, but I don't see any light at the end of the tunnel for my Z. I am like you and hoping for a twist of fate or the lottery

Thanks Bo' but MSA doesn't sell individual pieces,i already called. They sell the energy suspension kits but you can't buy direct from them either:ermm:

That's my luck, someone has one and they're shippied offLOL. No offense and thankyou so much for replying quickly. I would like to find one quicker ,but I might just wait for you to get back.It's a customers car but he is not in a hurry and I just might have to learn some patience. I will keep you in mind Sailor Bob and thanks

Well a little bad luck and a little impatience cost me a urethane rear contol arm outer bushing. actually I just screwed up the metal bushing part that fits over the spindle. I know it's a long shot but i am asking if anyone has some extras laying around that will keep me from buying a whole new kit I will sure would appreciate hearing from you. Or if you know who will send me individual components please point me in the right direction. It's a MSA kit but the bushings shouls all be the same. thanks

I was afraid you guys would tell me that-damn. The first side went in so perfectly too:mad:

Well I got my spindle pin back in but with some difficulty. I didn't get the groove lined up properly and i can't get the pin to move now. How crucial is this locking bolt since the spindle pin won't move anyway? What is the worst that could happen-the spindle pin will turn in the strut assembly?

Pvc pipe makes for a good template>

Beandip, I wasn't talking about spindle removal, I was talking about removing bushings!And I used the pin puller and it failed on one side but it worked on the other side. Dave got me going again and I would recommend the puller to anyone attempting that job.

I haven't tried this method on the moustache bar but i will be soon. I didn't like burning the bushings out because of the smell and the fire hazard, but I know there are some pyro freaks out there. Plus the clean up is easy. I see by your signature you are an expert on bushing removal:)

I had to do this job this past week so i thought I would post some pics. I had found threads on -how to- on removing the outer bushings but not to many pics. You know pics say a thousand words so I will post some. I also came across a better way (for me anyway) to remove that tough rubber of the old bushings. I took a 1" hole saw and it fits over the inner part of the bushing perfectly to use as a guide.It also takes out most of the rubber from the outer shell which helps you see what your doing better when you start cutting. The hole saw rips thru the rubber in 30 seconds and no burning rubber.A side note: I would highly recommend leaving the inner bushing bolts installed while you are working on the control arm. The reason being, is if the control arm -somehow - slips out of the vise, it will not fall on the floor and possibly damage the threads on the outer bushing. The outer bushing shell is just hard careful work. I would NOT recommend any power tools(i.e. sawzall) to cut the bushing shell-too much chance of cutting too much!! Take a file or sander and clean off the edge of the bushing so you will see accurately the cut you are making.This would be a good time to spray some penetrant on the bushing to help it slide off easier later. I like to make atleast 2 cuts if not three to really weaken the bushing. Then I work the area between the cuts and start peeling back the bushing until it finally gives way. I hope this helps out someone with a job that can be very frustrating. s __________________ Steve, 9/71 240z. 2.4 -.40 over, balanced. E-88 Bigger SS valves, stage 2, 6x2 header, true dual exhaust. BW t-5 , 3.54 r200(presently)

Thanks for the replies gentlemen. I posted and had to run off to work again so I didn't reply right away,sorry. I definetly noticed the taller front passenger spring and I do have mic so I will check to make sure I get them on correctly. Even with worn shocks (I believe original muhollands) the car didn't look like it sagged at all. With 85k miles , I'm going to stay with the originals to save some bucks and after I get it back together I will reassess the situation. If the springs look or feel bad I will replace then. thanks again

I am redoing the suspension on a 71 and I am keeping the original springs. The car has 85k original miles and the springs aren't even rusty. When i took them off I examined them for differences but couldn't see any difference from front to back or side to side. If anything, the passenger front looked maybe an 1/2" longer . Were the spring rates and heights all the same? Or should I be looking for a heavier coil spring on the rear springs? I have searched but haven't found much on the original springs.

I have the original ara manual but it is not very helpful

So if it is the input bearing is there a easy fix or is better to just throw in a different tranny? Is there a way to check this when the tranny is out of the car? So this a common trait for the 4 speeds? Will it eventually get worst or should I not sweat it?

I have been doing the search and I am still not sure. I ma working on member Jim Derks car and haven't driven but 1 mile. Hell, it just started for the first time in 10 years. Anyway, there is a whirling clutchtype noise coming when car is idling in neutral and stops as soon as the clutch pedal is depressed. I have read of 2 possibilities. First the throw out bearing, the car has 85k original and probably has original clutch--just replace and be done with it. I have also read it can be the input shaft. Is there a way to check this when I have the tranny out. I know very little about trannies and would like to diagnose this so i know whether to replace his tranny at the same time. I hate to post and leave but i need to go to work, any input would be great.I'm sorry can't tell you more except that the clutch seemed to work fine what little i drove it. Too hard to tell if there was any other noises since the cars suspension is shot and making it's own noises. By the way, after 10 years of sitting, the motor sounds great and the smoke is slowly disappearing out the back, even with the little i have run the motor. Can't wwait to get some miles on her and do a compression check.

Hey Beandip, I am going to be doing the old spindle pull here soon. Can you send me the file that shows how to make the puller. If it looks to hard maybe I will borrow yours. Thanks Steve sfinnerty@indy.rr.com

Can anyone enlighten me on these pictured caps. I need one to make a set and I would like to know what the PS stands for. thanks