madkaw

Mat, i am not familiar with what you are refering too. Sounds like these rubber plugs are going to be a small research project. (like everything else)

I found some posts on floor plugs but can't seem to find parts ### for them. I didn't see them in the MSA catalog either. I was actually amazed on how little info there was on those boogers. So anyone got some part#####'s thanks in advance

Jon, According to the thread you referenced me to the copper spacer goes on top of the bearing ,under the companion flange-not under the nut. I really appreciate the reference though, it answers why it was there and where it should be. I still worry about the end play since I didn't check what it was before i did the job. I need to mount a wheel on there and try to find bearing play I guess.

I revived this thread because it had some good pics and tutorial for replacing the rear bearings. My set up on my s-30 was different in that I had a copper shim washer that went between the companion flange and the inner bearing. I had one on both sides. After installing the bearings and installing the nuts(not quite the 200ft pds yet,which might be the problem), I have about .008 end paly at the housing. The play is when I pull and push directly on the the wheel flange. Is this too much? Will the additional torque take out a few thousands. I torqued the nut as hard as i could with a 1/2" drive but I bet I am still 50+ pounds short of 200.

Well I can't sleep tonight thinking of all the things I am going to try to do to my Z on vacation. The harsh reality is that it I will probably only get half of them done. I've got to get this car done so I can get some sleep:sleepy: And i am going to need a vacation after my vacation:cross-eye

I've thought of this too, but my circumstance is unique as you can see. If I can find some glasspacks shorter then 10" I could make if work along my diff but they would have to be skinny. The two in the back are 12", and i could maybe fit some short Borla's if the glasspacks are too loud. I am hoping my crossover will help resonate noise.

So I would get these from a locksmith I guess???

Looking for some ideas on some blacked-out door key locks for my car. I am painting all of my trim and door handles black b ut not sure to do about the door locks. Did they have black door locks on early Z's ? I am contemplating powder coating the locks but don't know if that is a good solution. I don't believe paint will hold up to key scratches.

I am blacking out all the trim on my car including the door handles. I am not sure what i am going to do about the door locks. Is there such a thing as black door locks for Z's or came someone point me in the right direction??

You should be able to grind away with out any issues. i think the problems are with the 6x2 headers only.

Thanks Arne

Arne, I know we are talking the same thing but the stud on my lights looks metal as well as the clip. Once the clip is removed then the lense comes apart from the backing? The lense was originally glued in place with sealer and secured with just this clip?

I am trying to clean up my 71 tailights and need some help. I want to get that little clip off the back and remove the lens so I can reseal them. Any advice would be great.

Arne, that vent system they came up with is unbelievable. It amazes me that they managed to use every size vent line from 1/4" to 3/4" hose. i am retrofitting a different tank to my car but still have to deal with the damn hoses. It's hard to find any hose over 3/8" for fuel venting with out special ordering. Napa wants 6.29$ a foot for there 3/4" and it's not formed. So my point is, I guess, even though you paid alot, it's the easier route then trying to track down all these hoses. I have spent many, many hours trying to come up with ideas to limit the cost for my job , but the vent lines are expensive. That medium hose for 88$-----ouch

let us know how much of the car gets covered for the 2 rolls of fatmat

sold 1782$

I might be if it fits in my agenda, but no car to take though