madkaw

Derk, check your pm

yes it did actually cause me to do some welding. but as you see, my damage was worse then yours. I still think that to fix yours right you will have to can-opener your floor like i did to get a flat piece of metal on it. I used 1/4" steel bar and had to hit hard and a lot to starighten her out. But you can't tell there is any damage at all now. You should see what i did to my frame rail in the engine compartment. Yes, my car was hit in the front end at one time but that damage you see was probably from a curb or jack

i just had this same dilemma and decided to fix it . My rails are rust free and I am doing a complete resto. I thought this won't be much work.:stupid: Actually it wasn't that bad. i cut a hole in the floor to access the frame and beat the frame back out. And it took some pretty good shots to get the dent out. You won't get it done by drilling holes and using a punch. You need a 3lb hammer and a big flat dolly for it to come out right. So you have to cut a big enough hole for the dolly to fit in. I am a perfectionist which usely cost me time and money, but to each is own.

Derk, can you be more speific as what your wanting done? Are you looking to do a complete resto or just some minor work? Is the car running but needs to be tuned up. How much body work? I would be interested but I don't want to offer my help if i would be over my head as far as time.

When I get the exhaust completely done ,I would put down a complete list of pipe bends i used. I ordered everything from Stahl Headers , there prices are reasonable and there were friendly to deal with. The pipe is 18 guage which was fine for me to keep weight down . And I was hoping to use this set-up as a templete for maybe a SS version later. The cost was atleast double++ for SS and I would have been pissed screwing up a 40$ piece of SS pipe.

Thanks Arne, thats the kind of info I need since I don't mess with exhaust too much. Those pipes are 2" all the way. I wanted to keep them small but also match up with the MSA header collector. I think anything bigger is way overkill. I am only running the p-30 but it is modified. I was looking for a different sound and look out the back. Plus I have only heard good things about crossovers so I incorporated that in the mix. Plus with my set up ,I can split the pipes on either side of the gas tank. Who knows, maybe the performance gain will be more then enough to offset the additional weight:laugh: I feel lucky that it has came out so good so far since i only screwed up one mandrel bend.

I've been checking out these clamps at summit and Jegs. I guess they have 2 types-one a lap type and the other a butt type. I'll have to figure out how they size the lap type to install my pipes to the header. I am using the sleeves from the collector MSA provided that slide over the header. The butt type will be nice for in the back for seperating the exhaust system in 2 pieces. I'm glad you guys brought this up about the clamps. How about some tips on glasspacks. I was wondering how the exhaust tone changes with the length of a glasspack. I will be able to fit from 12" to 18" glasspacks .I assume the longer the can ,the quieter the sound??? How much affect does the tip have on the sound???

So Marty, those clamps sqeeze the pipe over a larger area so you don't crimp the pipe?That would be sweeet and improve my chance of pulling the pipes off in one piece. I've seen those clamps before but have no experience with them.

I plan on putting a flange on the mufflers right now ,but still thinking about that. As it is, the whole set up just slides off the header in one piece.I would hope that after disconnecting my mufflers i will be able to drop the exhaust down in a complete assembly since the pipes do not run over anything.

Well it's not done yet ,but the hard part is done ,I hope. I need to make a final decision on mufflers or just glasspacks.And the decision on tips-that's going to be tough. I can't wait to hear it run.

thanks for the videos, it keeps us motivated on our projects. I can't help to think about the conversations with the folks on the track since you are running a 30+ year old car around the newer sport cars. It has to be a blast, I am truly envious.

Maybe I am in the right place at the right time since I am 44 and own a Z. Most people guess me as younger, so I still am fooling the masses with my immaturityROFL I live in Indianapolis.

We are all waiting Bruce-bring it on, I'm ready!!!

I should have titled this thread BWt-5 install in a first gen but I don't know how to change it now. Hopefully someone will find it using the search button.:classic:

I finished putting my BWt-5 in my 71 last night . I thought I would share my install ideas as far as tranny crossmember and mount. The mount seems to be the same regardless of what tranny you have . I have the auto and the 4speed and the BW and they were all the same. The crossmembers are different though.I had two early crossmembers ,one from a 4 speed and one from my auto. The auto was much lighter and actually had an offset to it,which I needed since the trans didn't line up. I decided to grind a relief hole on the forward side of the mount so I could slide it forward on the trans. I cut off the ears of the mount and rewelded them rearward (3/4") to put them back in proper place to line up with trans. Then all I had to do was elongate the mount holes in the crossmember one hole width for it to line up properly. I thought it was interesting that the original automatic trans crossmember had a shim to raise the tranny about an 1/16". I had to use that shim to get the bwt-5 to line up perfect with the diff. Hope this helps someone thinking about this project and I hope the pics upload

I'm trying to figure out why the cut lines in the pattern? Is that to allow the plastic to form better to the door. I was going to fiberglass over my masonate to preserve it before I covered it but this might be a better solution. Great Job and thanks for sharing.

Build date 9/71 #43413, probably sold originally in CA. Original color silver Seems like it is one of the transitional years ,or months should i say, since it has the diff set back with the curved bar. But it has no pockets on the floor for seatbelts. I wish i knew what my first Z was ,it was a 70 but don't know which month.

I believe Carl hit the nail on the head . The first pic looks just like my early e-88 head with bigger valves and the chambers unshrouded.As far as which one is better there are a lot of opinions on that but the first head looks like it's ready to go

If the engine fired right up you are close. Sounds like the timing is way advanced so try moving the dizzy while it is running to see if it brings the idle down closer to normal and see how it runs. You might just be an 1/4" off your adjustment. The timing might be so advanced that your timing light won't pick-up the marks. Your not going to hurt anything adjusting the timing while running:paranoid:

Here is those pics Jmark.