madkaw

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One more quick note. I should state that I ordered the 6 into 2 header pipe so the fit characteristics might be completely different then the 6 to 1 pipe!

Plus the covers will fit better on the new foam ! I did mine in the winter but I did them in front of the fireplace and got the covers just about hot. You definetly will want to warm the covers up for new foam.

I will glad to post some pics of the header since it is off the engine right now. Unfortunetly I am stuck out of town in the blizzard so it will be a day or so.

I believe Sal side stepped the issue gracefully saying that he was going to get with his vendor on this issue. He creditied me a small amount for my aggravation. But let me say again there was no comparison between the two headers. I would have NOT accepted the first header because it didn't even line up with the ports well. I gasket matched to check alignment and the forward tubes were off an 1/8". The newer header port lined very well and the flange is far superior.Even the welds were better and the port areas of the pipes were smoother without voids. I will live with grinding off some aluminum from my intake in an area that will not effect the intake . Un fortunetly that is the best MSA can do right now I guess, but like it has been said it is hard to be 100% satisfied especially at that price.

Jmark, I would ask them (msa) if they addressed the fitment issue with the on pipe hitting the intake as I stated in my earlier post-first page:) The flange is much better!!! I supposedly got the first one of the lastest version if that makes sense. It is 100% better then the one I sent back to them.

Jon has a good point. I am doing the T-5 swap but it is more for the fact that I know the tranny has only 60k miles on it and worked perfectly. It definitely more work, more weight,better performance?? I got the driveshaft with mine but have to shorten it. Maybe better to spend a little more to find a good nissan trans that is a easier bolt up with a better ratios for a N/A motor. Definetly do the research!!

I recently made my header purchase from MSA. The first header for my 2.4 SUCKED. The flange was thick but had slotted mounting holes(looked like a universal fit). The inside transition area inside where the pipe and flange meet was sloppy and full of voids-not very smooth. One header pipe hit the forward intake on the bottom--I sent it back to SAL The second header was the LATEST version from a new vendor. The flange is a HUGE improvement with a precise drilled flange(no slots). The transition inside the pipe runners with very well done with no voids and smooth welds. The coating looked good and have read good things about performance. The one pipe still made contact with the forward intake. With reluctance I grinded off about a 1/4" of material for clearance. This was in the area of the coolant passages which I was not using .I can't believe they cannot resolve this issue: maybe they will, I complained about it and recieved some compensation for it. So I guess for me it is bang for the buck. 300$ for a coated header seems pretty good, maybe not the best. Hope this helps

I read an extensive article on this and I will see if I can find it but the bottom line was that deadners made from Butyl were the best by far. Of course the best is usually the most expensive. I think the major difference was the butyl faired better as far as holding in place especially in extreme climates(heat).Just a thought when making your choices.

I left off waiting on an oil pump and a new spraybar from MSA.I failed to fix my original spray bar and actually melted it trying to resolder it. I had another one but couldn't find anyone who wanted to mess with it. I will assume for the sake of this experiment that the Nissan replacement that MSA sells performs the same. I ordered the high volume pump plus some HP springs so I knew what I had doing this experiment. I also mounted a pressure guage on the block to keep an eye on things. Bottom line is that I could NOT get satifactory results using both oiling systems. I never could get the spray bar to spray with enough pressure to actually reach the lash pad even with the HP springs installed and showing 75psi. So IMHO there is no reason to run a spray bar and the internally oiled cam both. My disclaimer is that i am a novice mechanic and your results may vary. Hope you guys get something out of this:)

thanks KTM, that's what I needed.

I am putting my front end back together after powder coating and my memory has failed me again. The control arms have urethane bushings and they are made to offset the contol arm in the front crossmember. I can't remember if the offset is to the front or the rear of the crossmember.Any help would be appreciated!!!

I would second that thought , call Danny's , he is a great guy and sells good stuff.

Hey Dreco, any do's or don'ts for installing that kaminari front spoiler. I am getting ready to install mine and would like to bypass any headaches. Car looks good and keep posting those track day videos, it inspires us that are still far from driving our rides.

When i searched the sites for headers i found very little info on bad fitting issues . Considering the amount of guys buying headers ,especially MSA headers, you would think there would be more postings of fitment issues if there were so many problems. Thus ,when i put my 300$ header on I'm expecting it to fit without grinding . Plus the fact that the port alignment was not that good. Now I believe the first header was especially bad and had a specific defect but the replacement still hit the intake. Why not sell with a disclaimer that some applications might need trimming. Sounds like the issue is with folks who are running the intakes that have the coolant passages. I would recommend that whatever header one buys that you check gasket port alignment , don't just bolt on and say it's a good fit.

Thanks,Yes I did then had parts clear powder coated. I only started this thread in order educate we members to what the vendors are offering us. I am not picking on MSA , and i waited to post anything till I had exhausted all my customer options with the company. The header is nice and the new flange works well, and if you can deal with grinding on the intake or the fact it isn't a bolt on as advertised then buy it. If you have the early intakes that don't have the coolant bowls on the bottom then you might not have to grind at all.

I figured I should put a conclusion to this header story. As you can tell from the date this has dragged on a bit. At first I complained about the fitment issue to a rep. at MSA and I sent along the pictures. Although I recieved friendly service it was not good service for the fact that I had to continually follow up with different reps to get any resolve to my complaint.No one seem to have a good handle on what was going on and things seemed disorganized at MSA. I was told that I was the only one that had this issue:surprised . Well the header got sent back to MSA after some more confusion. It was concluded that yes, the header hit the manifold like I said:rolleyes: I was sent a new header that was made differently with a new flange design. The new header flange actually has drilled holes for the studs instead of slots. It looks better and lines up better with the ports but still hits the intake in the same spot. It isn't as bad as the previous header but I still had to grind off a 1/4" or better to get clearance . At this point I have been dealing with Sal directly on this issue since I have sent some e-mails expressing my disappointment on the way this whole matter has been handled. I have told him that the new header still hits but he says that he tried it on a block with su intakes and it does not hit. So I guess i have a unique set up or something-though it is stock as far as I know. I am not writing this to flame MSA because i have been happy with many of their products ,but I am sharing my experience with the MSA header for the Z community to know. This kind of stuff goes on with all aftermarket parts ! I think MSA tries hard for customer satisfaction but I have a hard time believing that it should be acceptable to grind intakes for a header to fit properly.

The cam spray bar comes with gaskets attached to it.So just bolt it on and go!!!!!

I believe it IS stock application. My car also had moldings . They are secured to the panels with rivets if I remember (i slept since then). I know I weld filled the holes because i did not like the look of the molding for my car.

I guessed #1 also. And what's cool is that I thought #1 sounded the best anyway. Great article Dave and congrats!

Well for me it was more of a big deal because the intakes were polished then clear powder coated. Plus the ad for the header said "bolt on" with no modifications. My header was the 6 into 2 type so the header hit the forward intake. I've seen where the header was hitting someones rear intake, but don't know of anyone having my experience. MSA said this was a first, atleast that's what the representative i talked to said. I am running the same cam also.

What's with the "intake hitting the manifold thing" about. I sent my MSA header back to Sal because one of the header pipes hit the intake manifold. I didn't consider it "normal" so I sent it back. They agreed that it was wrong and are sending me a new one -haven't got it yet. I am planning to make my own twice pipes . I hope they turn out sounding as good as yours but it will be a hope and a prayer that the components i put together come out sounding like i wish. I think the sound of the exhaust is as important as a beautiful set of wheels for a car

I couldn't help laugh at myself the other day at work because i was bitchin about the fact i was short on horsepower. And I am just hoping to get a tiny 200hp out of my Z!