madkaw

Maybe I am in the right place at the right time since I am 44 and own a Z. Most people guess me as younger, so I still am fooling the masses with my immaturityROFL I live in Indianapolis.

We are all waiting Bruce-bring it on, I'm ready!!!

I should have titled this thread BWt-5 install in a first gen but I don't know how to change it now. Hopefully someone will find it using the search button.:classic:

I finished putting my BWt-5 in my 71 last night . I thought I would share my install ideas as far as tranny crossmember and mount. The mount seems to be the same regardless of what tranny you have . I have the auto and the 4speed and the BW and they were all the same. The crossmembers are different though.I had two early crossmembers ,one from a 4 speed and one from my auto. The auto was much lighter and actually had an offset to it,which I needed since the trans didn't line up. I decided to grind a relief hole on the forward side of the mount so I could slide it forward on the trans. I cut off the ears of the mount and rewelded them rearward (3/4") to put them back in proper place to line up with trans. Then all I had to do was elongate the mount holes in the crossmember one hole width for it to line up properly. I thought it was interesting that the original automatic trans crossmember had a shim to raise the tranny about an 1/16". I had to use that shim to get the bwt-5 to line up perfect with the diff. Hope this helps someone thinking about this project and I hope the pics upload

I'm trying to figure out why the cut lines in the pattern? Is that to allow the plastic to form better to the door. I was going to fiberglass over my masonate to preserve it before I covered it but this might be a better solution. Great Job and thanks for sharing.

Build date 9/71 #43413, probably sold originally in CA. Original color silver Seems like it is one of the transitional years ,or months should i say, since it has the diff set back with the curved bar. But it has no pockets on the floor for seatbelts. I wish i knew what my first Z was ,it was a 70 but don't know which month.

I believe Carl hit the nail on the head . The first pic looks just like my early e-88 head with bigger valves and the chambers unshrouded.As far as which one is better there are a lot of opinions on that but the first head looks like it's ready to go

If the engine fired right up you are close. Sounds like the timing is way advanced so try moving the dizzy while it is running to see if it brings the idle down closer to normal and see how it runs. You might just be an 1/4" off your adjustment. The timing might be so advanced that your timing light won't pick-up the marks. Your not going to hurt anything adjusting the timing while running:paranoid:

Here is those pics Jmark.

Like this?

One more quick note. I should state that I ordered the 6 into 2 header pipe so the fit characteristics might be completely different then the 6 to 1 pipe!

Plus the covers will fit better on the new foam ! I did mine in the winter but I did them in front of the fireplace and got the covers just about hot. You definetly will want to warm the covers up for new foam.

I will glad to post some pics of the header since it is off the engine right now. Unfortunetly I am stuck out of town in the blizzard so it will be a day or so.

I believe Sal side stepped the issue gracefully saying that he was going to get with his vendor on this issue. He creditied me a small amount for my aggravation. But let me say again there was no comparison between the two headers. I would have NOT accepted the first header because it didn't even line up with the ports well. I gasket matched to check alignment and the forward tubes were off an 1/8". The newer header port lined very well and the flange is far superior.Even the welds were better and the port areas of the pipes were smoother without voids. I will live with grinding off some aluminum from my intake in an area that will not effect the intake . Un fortunetly that is the best MSA can do right now I guess, but like it has been said it is hard to be 100% satisfied especially at that price.

Jmark, I would ask them (msa) if they addressed the fitment issue with the on pipe hitting the intake as I stated in my earlier post-first page:) The flange is much better!!! I supposedly got the first one of the lastest version if that makes sense. It is 100% better then the one I sent back to them.

Jon has a good point. I am doing the T-5 swap but it is more for the fact that I know the tranny has only 60k miles on it and worked perfectly. It definitely more work, more weight,better performance?? I got the driveshaft with mine but have to shorten it. Maybe better to spend a little more to find a good nissan trans that is a easier bolt up with a better ratios for a N/A motor. Definetly do the research!!

I recently made my header purchase from MSA. The first header for my 2.4 SUCKED. The flange was thick but had slotted mounting holes(looked like a universal fit). The inside transition area inside where the pipe and flange meet was sloppy and full of voids-not very smooth. One header pipe hit the forward intake on the bottom--I sent it back to SAL The second header was the LATEST version from a new vendor. The flange is a HUGE improvement with a precise drilled flange(no slots). The transition inside the pipe runners with very well done with no voids and smooth welds. The coating looked good and have read good things about performance. The one pipe still made contact with the forward intake. With reluctance I grinded off about a 1/4" of material for clearance. This was in the area of the coolant passages which I was not using .I can't believe they cannot resolve this issue: maybe they will, I complained about it and recieved some compensation for it. So I guess for me it is bang for the buck. 300$ for a coated header seems pretty good, maybe not the best. Hope this helps

I read an extensive article on this and I will see if I can find it but the bottom line was that deadners made from Butyl were the best by far. Of course the best is usually the most expensive. I think the major difference was the butyl faired better as far as holding in place especially in extreme climates(heat).Just a thought when making your choices.

I left off waiting on an oil pump and a new spraybar from MSA.I failed to fix my original spray bar and actually melted it trying to resolder it. I had another one but couldn't find anyone who wanted to mess with it. I will assume for the sake of this experiment that the Nissan replacement that MSA sells performs the same. I ordered the high volume pump plus some HP springs so I knew what I had doing this experiment. I also mounted a pressure guage on the block to keep an eye on things. Bottom line is that I could NOT get satifactory results using both oiling systems. I never could get the spray bar to spray with enough pressure to actually reach the lash pad even with the HP springs installed and showing 75psi. So IMHO there is no reason to run a spray bar and the internally oiled cam both. My disclaimer is that i am a novice mechanic and your results may vary. Hope you guys get something out of this:)

thanks KTM, that's what I needed.

I am putting my front end back together after powder coating and my memory has failed me again. The control arms have urethane bushings and they are made to offset the contol arm in the front crossmember. I can't remember if the offset is to the front or the rear of the crossmember.Any help would be appreciated!!!

I would second that thought , call Danny's , he is a great guy and sells good stuff.

Hey Dreco, any do's or don'ts for installing that kaminari front spoiler. I am getting ready to install mine and would like to bypass any headaches. Car looks good and keep posting those track day videos, it inspires us that are still far from driving our rides.

When i searched the sites for headers i found very little info on bad fitting issues . Considering the amount of guys buying headers ,especially MSA headers, you would think there would be more postings of fitment issues if there were so many problems. Thus ,when i put my 300$ header on I'm expecting it to fit without grinding . Plus the fact that the port alignment was not that good. Now I believe the first header was especially bad and had a specific defect but the replacement still hit the intake. Why not sell with a disclaimer that some applications might need trimming. Sounds like the issue is with folks who are running the intakes that have the coolant passages. I would recommend that whatever header one buys that you check gasket port alignment , don't just bolt on and say it's a good fit.

Thanks,Yes I did then had parts clear powder coated. I only started this thread in order educate we members to what the vendors are offering us. I am not picking on MSA , and i waited to post anything till I had exhausted all my customer options with the company. The header is nice and the new flange works well, and if you can deal with grinding on the intake or the fact it isn't a bolt on as advertised then buy it. If you have the early intakes that don't have the coolant bowls on the bottom then you might not have to grind at all.