madkaw

I called MSA today and asked about there "high volume" pump for 69$. Garrett ,I believe was his name, said that was merely the turbo pump for the manual trans. He said it would be cheaper(49$) to by the stock repalcement and put the higher pressure springs(14$) in because that is exactly what the turbo pump is(excluding the auto trans version). Not a whole lot of savings, but there price is pretty good actually .

Good point john about the maintaining pressure for the bottom end. I was planning on putting a direct oil pressure guage on there also. Like I said before , this is just playing around , I'm not trying to re- engineer the oil system. I'm just glad i didn't just go with the spray bar without checking it out first. I don't know if I would say it is a bad design, but it's an item that should be replaced periodically, especially during a rebuild.I wonder how many cases of badly worn lobes on new cams are caused by using the old spray bar?

Gary, Is that the turbo automatic or manual oil pump, I guess there was a difference. I believe the manual was a "higher volume" pump but not like the automatic.

That is exactly why I am checking this out. I am not saying I am right or wrong but there a quite a few guys who have done this with success.I wanted to see with my own eyes what kind of pressure loss there is with using both.Also Daniel, I will be be buying a stock oil pump to try this with too. Like you said, I am not sure what pump I have ,so I want to start with a stock pump and see how the pressure looks. And I don't think either system is inadequate, obviously the spray bar was used for years with success.This is just my way of verifying some of the stuff that's posted on these sites and I appreciate the feedback

If there was anywhere that i would want redundancy it would be there. There is quite a few guys running both set-ups, but I wanted to see first hand how both systems would work together. From what I have seen thus far they would compliment each other well plus giving the added protection of two oil supplies. Like I said though this started out as a way to verify my spray bar was doing it's job, and it wasn't.

After reading through the archives on cam oiling I thought i would do my own research on this subject. I wanted to prime my engine with oil before starting so I thought it would be cool if i could see this in action plus verify my spray bar is working correctly. When i rebuilt my engine I had the spray bar cleaned with everything else, but I have been skeptical of those little hole getting clean. The cam is an internally oiled, but I was going to use the spray bar also.This was another reason to look at things a little closer. So I found an old oil pump shaft from another car that would work and used a variable drill that had a 2800 max rpm to rime the motor . I used aluminum tape to make a barrier around the head.This actually worked very well to keep the oil in, just make sure you get the head perfectly clean so the tape sticks well to prevent leaks. (pic#1) What I found was that i am glad I did this test. With the plug in the end of the cam the oil shot out of the lobes more then i thought it would.(pic #2) I kept the drill speed low probably 1000rpm and the pressure was always good coming out of the lobes.And with the plug in there was still decent oil coming out of the spray bar. With the plug out, the oil pressure from the spray bar increased but not as much as you would think, and the oil was still coming out of the lobes but not with any pressure.(pic#3) I think a compromise could be made by drilling the plug to lower internal pressure and maintain spray bar pressure The biggest find was that my "cleaned spray bar" was not putting oil out on some of the lobes.(pic#4) So I did what many have recommended and ordered a new one. The oil pump I am using is supposed to be a high volume pump I bought off of e-bay but there is no way of proving this. When I get my new spray bar I will continue this with some more pics . Hopefully this will fix the lack of oil from the spray bar.

I have modified my car so the tire tub came out of my car. This car is rust free so is this piece. Maybe someone who is doing a resto job might want this.I figured i would offer this up before it went to the recycler.

Thanks for taking the time to write this up ezzzzzz. I am contemplating the same set up but never have seena "how to" write up! Did you find a junk yard pump or a new one, how much was the new if that was the case?

Okay , I've realized I have screwed up and now need some advice. I am putting my engine together-fresh rebuild and realized that I put the washers under the head bolts upside down:stupid: . Convex instead of concave down. Should I take the bolts out one by one and retorque as I go or should I remove and reinstall all and to proper sequence. Will this effect the gasket in anyway. This is a new gasket and the motor hasn't run yet. The timing chain is on and timed. You wonder what your thinking when you do this crap!

By the way the head measured out 4.254 inches

I don't think anyone will have the same exact set-up as you so no one will be able to tell you exactly. I would think the machinist would measure the chambers and tell you how much he needs to take off. On my e-88 I put the bigger valves in and unshrouded my combustion chamber and milled .012 off and also took off .010 off the block to clean it up. The machinist c.c.'d the chambers at 41.5 cc which are smaller then the e31 head, but I also notched my block for the bigger valves so my C.R. was figured at 9.55. So for someone to tell you exactly would be tuff.

Then there is titled 71 models that are built late in the year like my 9/71 that have some of the "upgrades" like the curved bar for the easy r200 swap but doesn't have the pockets in the floor for the retractable seat belts. Wether or not i have the better trans "71b" or not is inmaterial because i am putting the BW 5 speed in. I know mine is the best year because it's the one i own !!

It must be the whole service oriented industry or just business folks in Indianapolis .I dropped my motor off to a guy on Gasoline Alley for a rebuild. I told him that I wasn't in a hurry since I was doing a restoration. That was probably my first mistake . I didn't put that much pressure on him because honestly I wasn't ready for the motor. Well to make a lllooonnnnggg story shorter , he had my engine for 2 years. In his defense , this was more then a rebuild,especially the head. And I think the Datsun head was new territory for him also. He also cut 400$ off the price of the final bill for the head for making me wait so long ,which was great since I wasn't needing the engine just yet. So patience paid off for me.Now I have to wait on the powder coater, but once again, this guy is very reasonable especially if your not in a hurry. i think it's best to just plan on any service with this hobby is going to take twice as long. Carl, I think that was me about the body shop in Indy. Diamond collision, they were reasonably on time.

Unfortunetly almost every project I tackle around the house or on the car is plagued with WIAT. Typical explanations are; 1.I will want to do that eventually anyway 2.It will need to done soon anyway 3. What's another hundred bucks 4. That old part doesn't look right next to that refurbished part 5. it would be safer My car only needed a good valve job to keep it on the road but it looks like this now

Pushrod does sound logical but how are the brake lines,the rubber ones?Have they been replaced? I have seen old brake hoses that have broke down inside and act as a check valve and not allow fluid in one direction and restrict flow in another. Sound like what's going on is, either by the pushrod being out of adjustment and no where for the fluid to return, or somewhere else fluid is being restricted.

I had this same thing happen on a 69 mustang I was fixing up. I put all new parts on the brakes, calipers,master cylinder,proportioning valve. I must of went thru a gallon of brake fluid trying to get it bled. I finally tried reverse bleeding which actually worked. I removed the front caliper, this was the passenger side front, and put a block of wood in the caliper to duplicate the rotor but allows greater movement of the puck. I pushed the brake pedal so the puck comes out. Then i removed the lid on the MC and slowly pushed the caliper puck in and I could see the tiny fine airbubbles coming to the top. Now my situation was different for the fact i was having problem getting firm pedal on the first push. But i wasn't getting a good squirt out of the front calipers when I bled them, so in that way it was similiar. I replaced my MC 3 times convinced that was the cause. I have done brake jobs for years and never had this situation ,but all it was was air in the lines. I wish you luck-I feel your pain brother

My wife and I bought Subaru's on our anniversary. She got the Forestor turbo and i got the Baja turbo. Both are great cars and as previously noted, stealthy quick. The Baja was the best compromise of truck and car I could find-leaning more towards car handling. I love my Baja, it is one of the few new cars I have owned but I think I will sell it because it is cutting into my Z funds badly.

i wonder what size wheels and tires they are??. I'm thinking 205's, because I don't want to make that mistake with zg's if i go that route. I'd love to see 8 inch rims and 225's or 245's with the flares to see how it fills the gaurds. I believe both Gav and Toecutter have good looking cars (with the stripes) so that's why I don't mind what this guy did with his car.