madkaw

Yes

Ideally yes . It also seems odd to me and I am going to re trace my steps again tomorrow . As I said I have quite a bit shaved off the head and .005 off the block , so that would add slack. Even knowing that I still scratch my head a little. I even have the shiny links to reference and I also counted pins .

About a day away from MN/47 part 2. Just finished adjusted chain guides and tensioner to take up some slack! I gained about an 1/8” or so on the chain tensioner which meant the plunger wouldn’t be hanging out as far. I probably have about .030 removed from the total distance , so the slack was real. It actually seemed more prevalent then my L24 set up where I had as much as .050 removed. This time around I’m installing my newly acquired G- Force T-5 . It has a McLeod hydraulic TOB , we will see how that works . Also bought these sweet CV axles from Datsun Garage. Very nice pieces . This might be a whole new driving experience ?

Budget in another 10$ per rod for sizing. You need to resize the rid big ends if replacing with ARP. Cutting the head face is a straight forward process. It’s not risky , anymore risky than not resizing rod bolts or installing valve guides. Head needs to be perfectly flat and a fresh finish also helps guarantee a good seal with the HG. MY 2 cents .

Might want to be sure what you intend to do with the motor since he’s going to shave it. Want to raise the CR more than just a .005 cut? Now is the time . It wouldn’t cost anymore to take .020 off than .005 Not even sure what I’m looking at with those seats . So that raised portion is actually part of the seat? WTF! Head looks pretty clean other than that.

So here’s what I did . I guess I slept since then and couldn’t remember , but easy to see with an empty bay. Looks like I used the original supply line as my return since I ran a new 3/8” supply. A 1/4” line would be quite a bit bigger and would probably work.

It goes to the vent box in the rear quarter . You should have 3 lines running along each other under the car .

You have a tank vent line for sure . It goes to the other side of the engine bay to the vent valve . It’s larger then the return line . You could use it for now and do something else to vent the tank - maybe the smaller line could be the vent line.

Another option might be to reutilize the evap line as your return line. I’m saying that without rereading the whole thread, but I know you were trying not to change stock configuration. The tank vent line is bigger than the return line and should be sufficient. Then you would have to do something else as far as tank vent

SOLD

Buy a wideband O2 sensor and install - it will make life much easier for you

Might read this thread - might help https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/42960-triple-mikuni-thread/

So rich you are washing the cylinder walls down and causing oil consumption? Gas mileage bad? Looks like a bit of both fuel and oil, but mostly carbon if it brushes off that easy. Have you checked your TPS setting? Might need to take a cruise somewhere and shut it off at cruise and then pull the plugs . Don’t let it idle before shutting it down. Everyone should invest the 200$ for a complete wideband set up. Takes a lot of the guess work out.

I remember - vaguely- when I had a similar situation . It was something about the long jet assembly was no longer available but I had a carb with the longer ears . I believe I just redrilled the ears to the proper height to match the pivot point of the shorter jet assembly! So I just moved the holes up for the pin and adjust

I’m going to just RUN IT!

Oh no - I can’t be that lucky . Machinist finished up the parts and when I got home I realized he scratched the head surface with his valve seat tool. I drove home 25 miles to realize he didn’t give me the actual valve he touched up- left it in the table. Then I stared at the valve seat and realized he ground it wrong . Plus I see a huge scratch on the head surface . I’m not even mad though- it was one of those days . My truck started to run bad in the way home - dying every time I stopped . Can’t be mad at my machinist either . He’s 72 and nearly died a month ago from a broken stent in his leg. He’s hands shake pretty badly , but he presses on . He was finishing up the head as I waited and I think I rushed him . He feels bad and wanted me to bring it back this evening . Looks like I might have to adjust my CR calculation . It will take at least 15 thou to clean this up . Maybe it will take most of the dents out too -lol.

Well to make feel even better today my machinist told me that the rods definitely should be resized . After torque was set and measuring they were off slightly . I won’t make that mistake again - lol

I think most build you can get away with just throwing in bolts , it just wasn’t my day . And there’s no true evidence that the bolts did anything to the motor, could have been a chunk of something that ate the bearing What’s weird is my machinist kind of gave me a nick name of ‘lucky’. Can’t tell if he was being facetious or he was saying I’m lucky to have so little damage . One of the machinists there was admiring the L’s many main journals . “ they really got that crank locked down”, is what he said .

Any change in the bolts could be a change in the pilot center and cause the shells to off ever so slightly. Maybe okay for DD , but I should have known better for a performance build.

I think I have a complete set. You are needing clamps for the OEM braided hoses correct ? The 77 I redid for someone I had to replace all his hoses which are smaller in diameter because of the lack of the braided cover. A shame since they are in very nice shape. PM me

What I heard what that #5 main I believe . It hadn’t spun yet but was ready. Or - what I heard was the piston hitting the head around the damaged areas. The holes left raised areas around them on both the piston and head. There simply wasn’t enough clearance and they were slightly tapping each other as the engine heated up and things expanded. Another lesson I was schooled on by my machinist. Don’t just throw new rods bolts in - ARP or otherwise without having rods re-sized a the big end. This was a budget build on the short block, but at 10$ per rod I got to cheap and that could have also caused premature wear. It was more ignorance than $$ , but don’t have that excuse anymore .

It’s magnetic . I’ve seen enough welding splatter to know that it will burn into anything. I’m usually going a mile a minute in the shop , so I must have gotten careless . Ive built a rotisserie and numerous other things while I’ve had this head . I was waiting on a cam before I buttoned it up. Just bad luck. I at least salvaged the engine. Another lesson learned .

Well - it’s serious . Weird stuff , but I will take all responsibility. #5 main journal bearing was going away quickly, which contaminated others like #6 rod. It would have to be dirt or a shavings I missed maybe. The pics of #4 piston is something different . Somehow there was/is welding splatter balls in the intake runners of the head. One of these that was stuck/melted to the runner wall let loose and thus tearing up my piston , head and a valve seat on the way out . The head has been sitting around for a while , but the odds that I was welding close enough with enough splatter to fly into the runners is mind boggling- but it must of happened . Unless it happened at the machine shop and didn’t see the splatter . Just weird . Only good thing out of this so far is I have found no real damage from detonation running 11.5:1 . Everything is at the machine shop getting touch ups

I just pulled the same engine apart that had been sitting in someone’s garage for over 10 years on a stand . I was pleased to see these cylinder walls

Some folks just use a starter punch and put dots on the caps . It doesn’t take much to mark them so you don’t have to wack them hard or anything . They won’t wash away either