madkaw

No - I believe it’s 4 . I was running an adjustable anyway .

I was running 8 degrees in advance and wouldn’t have minded some more . Running the ISKY 290 duration put the power band up pretty high. About 4K+ is where she started to really “ come on the cam “!

Don’t worry about chain slack, go for the CR you want . Move the guide to take up slack. Advance cam timing a bunch and roll with it! I have .050+ off my e88 , no shims . Plug in 39cc chamber numbers for the MN47! I got my fingers crossed for my engine .

I see you found the thread . I just cut and notched my shaft carefully with a cut off wheel. Curious what year sensor you bought and what you got for the connector. Believe it or not I never finished what I started . One main reason is I was having difficulty finding the correct wiring harness connector . I ordered one and it wasn’t quite shaped the same way. Got sidetracked and never finished the install. Car ran well with batch fire for now. Definitely takes up less room!

You need to look and mark your timing marks on the pulley carefully. I almost bet you are sitting at 20 BTDC at idle and not 25. More than likely you have 17 degrees of mechanical advance with that dizzy and that would total you out at 37 WOT. 20 degrees idle advance would start and idle easier without choke because all that advance makes for a strong idle. Does your vacuum advance work? That’s where you might run into issues . You might be adding too much advance at cruise and be causing detonation that you can’t hear . Might suggest getting an Advance type timing light to check full mechanical advance and vacuum advance. Check your vacuum advance is working properly and not sticking I’ve run all my motors with close to 20 degrees at idle , with no vacuum advance. I also had cams that ran better that way. Figure out what dizzy you have with the chart below. Just 45 miles south of you I noticed!

With a red engine? That’s what he will have -lol. Of course it has a blue engine in a green car now

Sold my engine today ! Time to move on to my L28 build. Buyer brought his Z to me to install his newly acquired motor. He was fortunate enough to actually drive his motor before he bought it. He was smiling too much to barter a better deal. So now I have a double engine swap to do.

Have you seen the thread on Hybridz using the Jeep cam angle sensor ?

If you are trying to find a coolant leak in the timing cover you need to pressurize the system. Go to Oriellys or Autozone and rent a coolant pressure tester . Put 15lbs on there or so and take the valve cover and listen. It will hiss if it’s pissing coolant . You might even be able to see it will a flashlight looking down the chain .

Impressive for sure . I bet that ride is a rocket!

I mounted my MS3 on the trans tunnel on passenger side . Since I decided to run my harness thru the AC holes I figured I would keep the ECU closer to that . Not sure there is a right or wrong for location- it depends on the owners set up.

I used my AC holes since I don’t have AC. Where are you mounting the ECU? I split up my harness running my sensor wires out the opposite side of the engine using the choke hole.

Even running Rotella for a long time now . Drive my car hard ! Cam looks new every time I look at it

Do you mean Rotella?

It will be tight, but you don’t need a lot of room for the connectors. My set up didn’t give a lot of room for the connectors either. In fact, you learn that there’s not a lot of room for this whole project and you wind up doing three versions before something works right. I must say I am really digging this because of the use of the smart coils and the clean look of these R35 coils compared to my D-585.

Say whaaaaaaatttt?

Damn- id have my 10mm working overtime

Sweet! They look better than my d585’s

Are they smart coils?

Sorry , but trying to follow too many threads , but are you running a Haltech? Shouldnt you refer to their manual as far as wiring ? There might be a method of wiring it for sequential but firing it wasted spark. This way if you get a cam sensor it’s just a software update and not rewiring issue

Really didn’t state it as unreliable , I meant to say that a flywheel reading would be more accurate . The 123 is relying on a shaft driven off a gear that would have some lash or play. Under load might help mitigate slop, but how often do you drive under constant load ? We are probably splitting hairs at this point , but maybe a degree or two might mean the difference of detonation or not under full load.

Could t agree more with the flywheel being used. Like said above , a CAS alone will run your motor just fine .

Nice work . Too much sloppy from that oil shaft for a good CAS, but at least you made good use of it for the cam sensor. Pretty engine compartment - neat and tidy is the way I like it

My point is you don’t have to remove the valve cover to find TDC compression stroke.

Pretty sure you will need an additional sensor for sequential . That one wheel can’t do it all . Maybe you misunderstood them. Still- I’m only running wasted spark and it’s still light years ahead of a dizzy