madkaw

Sorry , but trying to follow too many threads , but are you running a Haltech? Shouldnt you refer to their manual as far as wiring ? There might be a method of wiring it for sequential but firing it wasted spark. This way if you get a cam sensor it’s just a software update and not rewiring issue

Really didn’t state it as unreliable , I meant to say that a flywheel reading would be more accurate . The 123 is relying on a shaft driven off a gear that would have some lash or play. Under load might help mitigate slop, but how often do you drive under constant load ? We are probably splitting hairs at this point , but maybe a degree or two might mean the difference of detonation or not under full load.

Could t agree more with the flywheel being used. Like said above , a CAS alone will run your motor just fine .

Nice work . Too much sloppy from that oil shaft for a good CAS, but at least you made good use of it for the cam sensor. Pretty engine compartment - neat and tidy is the way I like it

My point is you don’t have to remove the valve cover to find TDC compression stroke.

Pretty sure you will need an additional sensor for sequential . That one wheel can’t do it all . Maybe you misunderstood them. Still- I’m only running wasted spark and it’s still light years ahead of a dizzy

Fancy! Beware condensation in the MAP sensor line will roll down hill right into the ecu and kill the sensor . I had to go external . Unless you can use a newer style that uses no hose to the ecu

You have a link to this product - I can’t find it . I thought 60-2 wheel is just another version of a 36-1 wheel. I thought two separate sensors were needed or two separate wheels to run sequential

The wheel is for a crank sensor , Im not sure how it works for a cam sensor .

Yeah- stalled and he kept the parts folks let him borrow to make this work - real nice.

How does the wheel support the cam sensor?

TDC COMPRESSION STROKE!!!!!! Pull #1 plug and shove a vacuum plug that just fits the hole in there. Turn over motor till that sucker shoots across the room- you found compression stroke . Now line everything up

It has been fun for me to play with all the numbers . With complete control you can run a ton of advance and run the motor lean without worrying . Cruise at 16AFR and 45 degrees all day . The beauty of having a well engineered mechanical platform and modern technology to run it

Haltech should be great. What MAP sensor are you going to run and where are you installing it?

I was ready to go that route when I thought I was having issues with my TPS . Looks like a cool set up

Build is looking good. Too late now but I would have mentioned that you could shove 14mm high impedance injectors in the stock manifold and they will seal. Probably a mute point if have a 11mm fuel rail. I’m running Audi 1.8 Bosch type now. As far as catch can , PCV, etc, I added a pic of mine . You said you run a catch can, probably plumbed the same way. There’s a few hoses there if you can pick it out. The hose off the intake is for the IAC . The can catches more than I thought. I like how you cleaned the intake up. I need to do a cable myself to get rid of the linkage.

There was a QC sticker provided on a separate piece of paper with an explanation of why it wasn’t on the damper, because the damper needed a protective coating, BUT be assured it was inspected. I will say they were very apologetic and sent a return label immediately. Customer service was good. Full review when I get another one

Well another set back or two. After staring at my valve train I realized my lash pads for the exhaust were to deep in the retainer putting the rocker too close to the edge. So I ordered a larger size and will sacrifice a little on my desired wipe pattern , but should gain more clearance for my rocker . Also, my BHJ damper came in , but had defects so I had to send it back. Check your parts closely guys ( didn’t sound right did it -lol). When you are paying serious $$ for performance stuff it shouldn’t have defects. ?

Shadow line ? The mirrors work good! Turbo Vitalonis

Picked my car up from body shop prison. Just did touch ups on rocker panels and rear valence. STOKED !!!!

I was just trying to clarify your statement - not playing semantics. We started the thread talking about straightening ( flattening ) the head. I wanted to clarify you were referring to cutting the head on both sides and not straightening both sides. The last head I had done for someone I had 3 sides cut. Some early heads have some corrosion ( pitting) along the mating surface of the intake and exhaust can use a nice shave. It can get expensive when you start doing 3 sides . Anytime there is warpage on the head , both sides needs to be checked for sure. Yes the head has to be torn all the way down to cut the cam side of the head , but that’s just the way it goes if the cam don’t spin freely

Do you mean to say - machine both sides- Charles?

This was all part of the welding process to close the chambers on some of the heads . Again, I would only consider this process if I had a head that I had a lot of money and mods in and was trying to salvage it after it was warped by overheating . Shaving is the a better alternative if you have the room for P2V clearance - IMHO. Heads are plenty enough still, so unless you can straighten heads yourself, the expense of straightening is not worth it.

I attempted this with a head that was .035 warped. My problem was having the correct fixture to bolt the head down . Since I was just playing around I used a cut up L24 block as the fixture . The block surface was also warped in the opposite direction, so it worked well for this instead of shimming a flat surface . I heated all this is a pottery kiln. 350 degrees for 2 hours worked well. There was rebound effect that made it difficult to predict . The next try my buddy forgot the head was in the kiln and cooked the head . That was my last attempt. With what little you are doing I would shave it . Hell, I could have shaved the .035 and been alright , but I wanted to play with trying to bending the head. Make sure you slow cool it and don’t bang on it until it is fully cooled. Don’t want to loosen any seats . The head I was trying was a e31 that was a head I didn’t care about . Some guys here said I was crazy for thinking this would work, but it’s right there in the How to Modify book.

Sorry , I missed your post. Stock Felpro - so 1.25mm. Head has probably .025 shaved. .090 ex .120 intake