madkaw

I might be wrong - but get ready for some clunking in the rear. There seems to be excessive radial movement in the joint - slop. Supposedly these axles were engineered more specifically for 4wd vehicles. I’m not going to pretend I’m an engineer , but there are some unhappy folks with these. Now I’ve put them thru some serious stress testing , but my HP isn’t to your level. Just today I was under the car cleaning and inspecting and couldn’t find see anything wrong . Initially when I bought these the instructions were okay, but had the wrong torque value on the Allen bolts and I stripped one. After a phone call I got it straightened out. Safety wiring is a bitch .

Never mind

Some dizzies have 17 degrees of vacuum advance so I guess you could see that much with the advance plugged in. There’s a chart out there that tells how much advance based on dizzie number .

Yep- disconnect that vacuum advance . Does it miss at lower rpm pulling a slight hill? How did you know it was 50 degrees ? Was this just revving in the driveway? Ignition issues like to show up with heavy loading at lower rpms -especially if it’s lean. Have you checked your mechanical advance operates smoothly?

It sure if anyone has interest in my truck project , but it’s actually starting to look like something . Always kind of fun getting the body panels on after being off for a year- oh yeah- that’s what it looked like -lol. really anxious to get the motor in and be able to move this thing around. It’s slowing me down not being able to move it to the studio. This will be a fun install. A very tall motor in a tall truck - it will be close !

Very nice .

I run the BWT -5 with 3.90 gears. 1st gear is mostly useless . In 4th it’s not bad, but I have a cammed motor. My motor just starts to smooth out at 3500+ rpm. I’m just starting to get in my power band. Like to have taller 1st and 2nd gears , but makes for a very quick launch.

I’ve considered new strut rubber mounts solely for the reason of NVH. After years of abuse I would think the rubber gets work hardened and brittle and does not absorb the road noise as well. How much can we ask from 45 year old rubber parts ? One reason I have NOT gone the coil over design is because of the pillow mount which eliminates the rubber cushion . These cars ride harsh enough with stiffer springs and shocks , then connect everything without rubber - eek. I guess it depends on your usage . I’m looking for more refinement in my ride and still have it sporty . I’ve considered new strut mounts to help with this. As far as OEM vs aftermarket , a 100$ difference for 4 items I can do . Ideally I’d like adjustable Koni and all new rubber with my ST Springs . Camber can be achieved by slotting the mounting holes for the insulators , but some might not feel comfortable with that.

Have you run the engine enough to pull the plugs and look? Terrapin has a good point. Had the same issue of one carb being lean( equals 3 cylinders) . Not sure if you are running a vacuum advance or not, but if she’s real lean and not enough timing she’s going to balk.

This pic jars my memory

You should have my number if you want to talk about it.

Make sure you get your old (unusable) ones back.

#retiredlife. I am tired from working on being retired .

I didn’t think your door cards were that bad a shape ! Maybe I didn’t look close . Good luck

Maybe the cam had been dropped at one time and was cracked - and it finally gave out.

That part went well!

It’s funny how you need to get to work when you retire from work!-lol! I can’t keep up with retirement .

Lots of meat on that header flange . I might consider a little sanding on the thermostat housing . I believe I had to trim the gasket too

Can’t believe this thread is 4 years old. Man I’m slow. I did order a cam today for the build . Potter Racing cam! Once I have it in hand I can actually start the rest of the assembly. Need to work out lash pads once cam is here, then check PVC - hope that works out well -eek! Meanwhile the 3.2 block gets a bath so I can drop the crank in!

Keep in mind that unit(s) are not light to move around. I bet the 5000 model weighs in at 75-80 pounds per ramp. I have the 3500 and I am pretty pleased . I paid much more for my 3500, so the price is good. Biggest issue is lowering of ramps has to have weight on it . So if you raise a car and then put on stands it’s a bit of a pain to lower the ramps. Also not a big fan of using the pinch welds because you have to line up everything perfect . Maybe the longer 5000 will be better than the 3500 I have. The 3500 definitely has to be set just right to raise the car on the pinch seams . I’m considering welding an attachment for using the frame .

Retired - sorry ?

Anyone know for sure if the s-30 roof structures are all the same? I know things changed down below, but not sure about roof. Depending on what you consider as a roof component , the shoulder belt attachment would be different - would it not? Forward of the shoulder harness attachment I think everything is identical. I will be studying this for obvious reasons. I am working with a friend - who owns a body shop and has been in the biz for 40 years.

An hour or sooooooooooooooooooooooo

I’d say at today’s market you did alright- ESPECIALLY delivered . They look super clean- congrats

Just do the megasquirt. There’s a vendor on Hybridz that sells a nice package deal that’s about plug and play . Then you can do what you want and have a programmable fun. You could buy a wideband and try to get what you can out of the stock EFI , but it will never be as good as updated ECU.