madkaw

You need to lean towards ignition first. Sounds like a weak spark that you have to rev the engine to keep it running. Have you checked spark color ? Have you inspected the dizzy cap for cracks. Is there moisture in the cap. Are the wires tight around the dizzy. Is the coil getting proper voltage? Is it putting out a blue spark? Now start on the fuel

Those are fuel fouled for sure. You need to test fuel pressure . Then start checking all connections. Read the EFI BIBLE , and get your multimeter out. Your pushing your luck with a 10 year old battery - regardless out how it tests. I don’t see anything about ignition checks ? Dizzy cap? Plug wires? Rotor? Timing ?

I did watch this - thank you .

One bed frame down!

Just drove it! Got a ignition problem fixed and made a club run with a local car club

I’ll take pics just to categorize the assembly for reassembly . Of course if I screw up or give up , I’ll have picks of parts in the classifieds -lol Currently working out the jig to keep things aligned . Need to find some more bed frames !

I guess I’ll just surprise everyone.

It’s also bad around rear quarter windows

Guys, yes it is a bad rust issue that has rotted a lot of the substructure of the roof crossmembers . So I want to swap out the whole roof -pillars and all. The layered structure of the Z chassis makes it difficult to undo and reattach . I’ve been staring at it for days . This is for 4858 or I wouldn’t even consider it . The car is pretty solid other than this. It has the normal floor stuff , but the roof is kind of baffling . I think the rain got behind the seal and sat in the vinyl and rusted from inside out .

It wouldn’t last 5 years under a tarp- it would rust to the ground

Not just the skin - the whole damn thing. Anyone done it? Been searching and can’t find much. Anyone know of a thread where someone has done it?

Let me amend my early statement . I just don’t think that car is worth even 2k. It’s just really bad. I know matching numbers mean something, but that thing is about rusted to the ground .

Wow - pretty rough , but complete I guess. Helping me to get motivated on my 4858. Mine is better than that by far.

Looks like a bad casting more then detonation . Some early castings I’ve seen had porous areas in the chambers . Lots of water damage . That head is toast Id say .

Still have most of these parts . Newer oil spray bar sold.

They are are rare because a lot of them didn’t survive. Not the best castings at first and normal wear and tear , and normal neglect has dwindled the numbers . Some were damaged because the seats fell out because it was an inferior design flaw. Electrolysis is usually the worst offender .My 9/71 has the e/88 which is the same exact head( early version only) as the 31. Just depends on what your plans are for the car. 31 heads pop up every once in a while, but look carefully. You could get another head on there to get the engine running while you look for a 31 head. Or just put a complete engine in there while you put back together an original engine package

View Advert MN -47 cylinder head This is a very clean Maxima - N-47 Head. For those not familiar , it was the cylinder head used on the 2.4 engines for the Maxima series -1981-1984. This head will bolt on to any L series 6 cylinder block. These heads have an advertised 39 cc combustion chamber ( I’ve measured as much as 41), which makes for a perfect size for a higher compression build. The chambers are a bit smaller then the E-31 head, but a better chamber design. The valve sizes are 42/35 , so it already has the bigger exhaust valve. For some more performance the intake valves can be upgraded to 44mm valves . The exhaust side has liners , but flow very well and will not hinder performance for most performance builds. The high quench design of the chamber is very desirable in fending off detonation with a higher compression build. The ports are slightly smaller and have the D shaped intake port for a biased flow. The ports can be opened some, but for most builds it will flow well and help with low end torque. This head has been checked at the machine shop for flatness and cracks. The valves and guides were also inspected and I was told it was in bolt on condition. I have decided to throw in some 44 intake valves and rockers and will also supply a stock drilled cam . So you can throw this in as it is or upgrade to the bigger valves and upgrade the cam and have a very good performing head. There is no springs or lash pads , but I will supply a clean set of rockers that should be ready to run . I am asking 400$ for the package , shipping will be additional. Price can be less if buyer doesn’t want valves or cam, or rockers. These heads are very difficult to come by and you won’t be disappointed. I’ve never came across any L head this clean. Some CR numbers with this head combo .All approximations and based on 1.25 HG thickness.Also based on 39cc chambers advertised with these heads , so more likely the chambers are slightly bigger so less CR . I base the CR numbers higher because most heads require a small cut for flatness and or HG thickness might vary. L28 block with dished pistons =9:1 L28 block with flat tops= 10.75:1 L24 block= 9.5:1 I also will offer my services to help build this head to your specs and get it ready as a bolt on cylinder head. Please contact me for that service . contact me via email or PM sfinnerty1018@gmail.com Advertiser madkaw Date 03/06/2019 Price $400.00 Category Parts for Sale

Cars fitted with AC usually had 3 row radiators . The stock radiators flow really well.

Head still available . Offering 44mm valves for the intakes plus a clean set of rockers . 400$ for all items . Also offering help or assembly of head with your additional valve train parts( cam and springs ) at additional costs for labor . This would be an excellent high performance head with the right components ! sfinnerty1018@gmail.com

There is no bolt in crossmember . You will have to alter something to make it work . Some get away with just elongation of the mounting holes

According to the great Racer Brown , it can be as much as one degree of rotation( out of the 360) that the pistons hovers at TDC. The only way to be exact is with dial indicator with the head off. Using a dead stop to get exact TDC can be a challenge in that you might not add and subtract correctly with your degree wheel . And timing can make a huge difference in performance - whether valve or ignition timing .

Found mine - not a similiar year to my Z , but still that era

Yes - I need to repost this ad because it won’t allow me to edit it. sfinnerty1018@gmail.com

Still have most of these items!