madkaw

Had an issue with this 77 dizzy with having the timing maxed out in the advanced settings just to get to stock specs . Come to find out that the vacuum advance arm was not attached to the breaker plate. So the screw was in place but not attached to anything. This put the breaker plate in the wrong position - retarded in regards to the pick-up position. can someone tell me what this other adjustable plate does- see pic. It was adjusted all the way to one side. The horseshoe pick up or whatever it is moves with it, it I can’t find any info in the FSM about it. What does it do?

I should add a disclaimer for some of the sh!t I do -lol

You can still have good compression with a blown HG. Might be enough coolant to foul plugs but not to cause a smoke. Need a pressure checker to find it

Sending unit is still in the same place right? I think there would enough room. If you were worried about room for the lines clearing the body -between the tank and body- you could adjust where the tank sits . You could lower the tank by not tightening the J hooks all the way

Blown head gasket?

Now the dilemma ——- Dave Rebello called and my stroker short block is done and is shipped ! Do I finish this motor with the L28 bottom end or just go for the 3.2 with the maxima head !

I didn’t make a specific statement - but I did say in this thread that the block had been shaved - .005 to be exact

Surgery has killed my chance. Not healing as quick as I thought and I can’t work on my car much right now. I’ve actually hired some help to keep things going. It’s killing me that I can’t go with it this close. Very slight chance I’d drive down in another car, but that wouldn’t be as fun.

More progress - finally I am satisfied with the combustion chambers and head in general , so time to measure . MN47 are said to have 39cc chambers , but I beg to differ. 41.2 cc right now with bigger valves and head surfaced at least .015. I did unshroud the chambers which I gained some there, but it wasn’t a lot. No cam picked out yet , but I have springs. I will still probably drill and tap the coolant passages on 2-6 cylinders . The marks are there already , so I’ll just finish what Nissan started.

What’s the spark plug look like on that carb? Have you checked for vacuum leaks? Checked all fasteners are tight? O-rings in good shape? Enrichment valve closed(choke)?

Looking for a good core . It must be known as a good core if I’m going to pay for shipping thanks

I have all my trim blacked out on my car. I have the cheapy MSA covers that have actually lasted pretty long, and they have just the rubber trim. In a perfect world I’d like to have better lens held in with a better rubber seal. I could picture these with painted trim !

Will there be any option to get lens and frame ( not chromed) . I would love to have a pair that I could black out the frame.

I think your gear change is what will be the most effective in transforming acceleration in general. Theres a guy on Hybridz that sells an adapter ring to mount a 350z flywheel. The stock ones are Chrome Molly and come in at 16lbs I believe . It’s a 250mm surface so that’s an improvement also. I think it’s Godzilla Raceworks . The flywheel has the correct bolt pattern and the adapter is nothing more than a shim. I believe the 350z flywheels are reasonably priced I run a lightened 240mm flywheel, but not many places do that service anymore

With regard to dropping oil pan . I would take off valve cover and see how bad it looks under there. It’s pretty easy to determine whether there was neglect as far as oil changes . If the the oil is caked or baked everywhere or there is sludge build up , then maybe dropping oil pan is worth it. Heres a pic of a 73 oil pan I did. The valve area looked sludgy and suspected the worst .

Just did this. Rock auto, Z car depot and MSA have the switch. It’s about 35$. Biggest issue I had was replacing the small 5/16” formed hose that carried the coolant to the valve. If the rest of your EGR system is there and working then I’d say fix this. A lot of connected parts to the EGR system, so delete one part , you might as well delete all- but that’s a lot more work

Painting trim is no different then painting any other part on the car. Properly prepped it should last. I went with powder coating on all metal pieces - and I mean all. I even powder coated the windshield trim. No issues with it holding up and black would be easy to touch up.

I’m wanting that cam myself, so this will be interesting. I’m tempted to go the cheap route and pull the Isky cam out of my 2.4, but I want to keep that motor a runner

A drill will actually spin the oil pump up to 50+ psi cold, but a drill probably is doing 2000rpm minimum . Cranking is less than 10 psi so it will only be a dribble. If it squirts with a drill - then your probably be okay . Start it with the valve cover off and clean up the mess later

I read a lot of rubbing issues on the outer lip, but not much is mentioned about the rear inner fender well. I found that I could clear the lip but the rear tire would rub up inside the well on hard bumps with the car loaded. I cheated in every way to get my 17x8.5 +4 offsets to clear. Including in the cheating was actually changing rear camber by slotting the strut mounting holes. I run 225/45/17 and I bet I could get 235/45/17 in there too. So I can see how if the diameter is kept down you can get 245 in the rear. I actually ran 245 all the way around first time and the fronts cleared - barely. The 245’s just rubbed too much in the rear to keep on there. Camber in the back will gain you some room. Positive offset on the rear would allow for bigger meats , but too much positive up front it will rub the strut . I actually flattened the strut perch on the wheel side to clear my WHEELS. Being 17” the wheel rim is on the same height as the spring perch, so adjusting spring perch( with hammer) actually helped. A smaller wheel would have a tire lined up with the perch and it would flex, so might not work

All the down drafts I’ve worked on - Holley , etc... the accelerator pump squirted with ANY movement of the throttle . It should be very sensitive to throttle input . I’d start there since it’s the easiest and cheapest

Didn’t mean jack this thread Charles

Nope - just parts replacement

Did you hear back from them

Got my meds .