madkaw
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Everything posted by madkaw
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3:54
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Have most of the AC pieces for early ( pre 73) ARA system . Very nice underdash evaporator , plus extra evaporator, compressor , bracket , pulley , 200$ for whole package or separate pieces . The compressor , though dirty has a rebuilt sticker on it , but no knowledge if it works complete air smog pump system with good hoses -50$ Timing cover - good condition - 40$ 280zx AFM - sorry don’t know year and if works . Glad to test for buyer if I what tests to do. Came off a very clean motor. -25$ r180 diff - super clean -75$ All prices are best offer and don’t include shipping . shipping is from 47401
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If I had room I might consider keeping it - but I’m Lucky enough that I already own a very nice Z. I also have another 1972 Z that I want to make a lemons racer with. So right now the plan is to just fix the car up and sell it for funds for my other Z‘s.
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Without putting a gauge in there - you still are guessing .
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Is this car a keeper or is going on the market ?
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might think about putting a fuel pressure gauge on there to see what’s going on . I had a zxt that was giving me a fits and it was a clogged return line. Showed almost 100 psi at one point - don’t know how things didn’t explode -
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I think you are right Lumens , it all adds up. The diff was open - though solidly mounted . The engine was the sneaky part . I didn’t race or solo cross at all ,so not familiar with the rules as far as mods. So it looks as if he ran a stock cam on a shaved head ,bigger valves , but punched the block out to 86mm- which no one would know unless it was cracked open . It had triple Weber’s and a header at one time . Kind of fun trying to put the puzzle together
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Maybe those centerline wheels rubbed just on that side . They do have a negative offset . I’m going to run the wheel up into the well when I pull the spring and see if that’s the case . I have heat in my studio or I wouldn’t be out here
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wheel well lip
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Fortunately the PO’s didn’t do much else to the car. Cut off the lip on the drivers side rear quarter - just the drivers side?
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Did some serious bodywork today removing bad bodywork-lol. I got lucky that this guys fiberglass didn’t stick to anything much . I just tapped the marker area with a hammer and popped out the filler. It was a bad idea , badly executed, thank goodness ?
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Wow- not getting any better is it
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Very nicely done - congrats . You’ve set the bar too high for me - but it’s fun too watch !!
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Oops
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I’ve read where Blake has said less than .7- but doesn’t recommend it for the average builder . I think he ran less than .6 Sent from my iPad using Classic Zcar Club mobile
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I thought it was 1.25mm Sent from my iPad using Classic Zcar Club mobile
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What I meant as far as measure is to install a piston in the block on the crankshaft and measure the ‘pop out’ of the block. I would be surprised if any additional thickness of HG would be necessary .
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Only way to know for sure is to measure Sent from my iPad using Classic Zcar Club mobile
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Or just shave the block deck. I’ve not measured a stock piston height on the 2.4 , but my ITM pistons were 0 decked compared to stock L28 being + .018
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Right- how about a small vacuum leak- lean , plus advance that doesn’t work that is supposed to help with lean conditions of cruise . Just dial in 18 or so initial and plug the vacuum advance until you find a diaphragm
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For now - you could just disconnect your vacuum advance and set your initial timing to around 18 degrees . This will give you plenty of timing for driving and you can see if your accel issue gets any better .
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I believe those year dizzys were problematic as far as the inside guys sticking and breaking , so I would guess ignition issue FIRST before anything else. Could possibly be mechanical advance issue. Need to open up that dizzy and look
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I believe I read somewhere that the dash pad will have built in nut plates to screw in your OEM metal frame. Best way to do it in my opinion.
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If he builds engines he will surely figure it out . That could be anything from a large vacuum leak to a wet dizzy cap
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Are you building a turbo with that engine combo? Not sure if there is just one kit that covers everything . You’ll wind up buying a timing kit and piston kit and gasket kit, etc.... Maybe one of the vendors sells a compete over haul kit
