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madkaw

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Everything posted by madkaw

  1. That’s just not right Chuck - for one man to have all that ?
  2. Sorry guys - I can’t work that way- I think I’m a bit anal . When it starts to look a little cluttered or I can’t find something - it’s time to clean and organize
  3. madkaw replied to footballnick17's topic in For Sale
    Well- not much then. You could sell the rockers if not too bad of shape . Someone might want the stock cam also if it’s in good shape . Springs and stuff aren’t worth much really.
  4. madkaw replied to footballnick17's topic in For Sale
    Do you know who made the kit and what the camshaft is- that would help . It should fit on any other head if you could use it
  5. Have most of the AC pieces for early ( pre 73) ARA system . Very nice underdash evaporator , plus extra evaporator, compressor , bracket , pulley , 200$ for whole package or separate pieces . The compressor , though dirty has a rebuilt sticker on it , but no knowledge if it works complete air smog pump system with good hoses -50$ Timing cover - good condition - 40$ 280zx AFM - sorry don’t know year and if works . Glad to test for buyer if I what tests to do. Came off a very clean motor. -25$ r180 diff - super clean -75$ All prices are best offer and don’t include shipping . shipping is from 47401
  6. If I had room I might consider keeping it - but I’m Lucky enough that I already own a very nice Z. I also have another 1972 Z that I want to make a lemons racer with. So right now the plan is to just fix the car up and sell it for funds for my other Z‘s.
  7. Without putting a gauge in there - you still are guessing .
  8. Is this car a keeper or is going on the market ?
  9. might think about putting a fuel pressure gauge on there to see what’s going on . I had a zxt that was giving me a fits and it was a clogged return line. Showed almost 100 psi at one point - don’t know how things didn’t explode -
  10. I think you are right Lumens , it all adds up. The diff was open - though solidly mounted . The engine was the sneaky part . I didn’t race or solo cross at all ,so not familiar with the rules as far as mods. So it looks as if he ran a stock cam on a shaved head ,bigger valves , but punched the block out to 86mm- which no one would know unless it was cracked open . It had triple Weber’s and a header at one time . Kind of fun trying to put the puzzle together
  11. Maybe those centerline wheels rubbed just on that side . They do have a negative offset . I’m going to run the wheel up into the well when I pull the spring and see if that’s the case . I have heat in my studio or I wouldn’t be out here
  12. wheel well lip
  13. Fortunately the PO’s didn’t do much else to the car. Cut off the lip on the drivers side rear quarter - just the drivers side?
  14. Did some serious bodywork today removing bad bodywork-lol. I got lucky that this guys fiberglass didn’t stick to anything much . I just tapped the marker area with a hammer and popped out the filler. It was a bad idea , badly executed, thank goodness ?
  15. madkaw replied to Patcon's topic in Open Discussions
    Wow- not getting any better is it
  16. Very nicely done - congrats . You’ve set the bar too high for me - but it’s fun too watch !!
  17. I’ve read where Blake has said less than .7- but doesn’t recommend it for the average builder . I think he ran less than .6 Sent from my iPad using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  18. I thought it was 1.25mm Sent from my iPad using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  19. What I meant as far as measure is to install a piston in the block on the crankshaft and measure the ‘pop out’ of the block. I would be surprised if any additional thickness of HG would be necessary .
  20. Only way to know for sure is to measure Sent from my iPad using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  21. Or just shave the block deck. I’ve not measured a stock piston height on the 2.4 , but my ITM pistons were 0 decked compared to stock L28 being + .018
  22. Right- how about a small vacuum leak- lean , plus advance that doesn’t work that is supposed to help with lean conditions of cruise . Just dial in 18 or so initial and plug the vacuum advance until you find a diaphragm
  23. For now - you could just disconnect your vacuum advance and set your initial timing to around 18 degrees . This will give you plenty of timing for driving and you can see if your accel issue gets any better .

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