madkaw
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Everything posted by madkaw
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That regulator position worked well for me
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Thanks Mike Anyone else going? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
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So the link shows up when I reply but didn't see a click link in the original post - maybe my phone
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https://www.midwestzheritageshow.com/ i didn't see this link in the OP
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I did that the other day
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Yep - this topic has been beat to death- so let the beatings continue! 17x8.5" +4 offset . 225 will BARELY rub if I bottom out over a bump full fuel and cargo. What rubs is the inner arch rear quarter which can only be altered with flares. Same wheels with +10 offset I bet I could get 245's not to rub, but you would have to run spacers up front ( this is with stock spring diameter , lowered 1.5") Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
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I'd say it safe to say that this engine hasn't ran in a long while . Interesting retainers !!
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Looks great- but I bet that black on black was hot. Need a lite color interior for black car. Saddle brown is nice with black, but I still think white would be classy and never seen it on a Z
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Tough call . Since it's not a numbers matching car( no engine tag), not sure if color will make or break value. It is one of my least favorite colors , but it works well with original trim. Like to do something different and have lots of time to think about it. Really like to do a black Z with white interior - but don't see any to compare . Or even crazier red interior . Just happy the car is so solid . Since i am likely not to keep it , I should go a stock configuration . Wish I could solicit a buyer first and build to their specs !
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I don't about that, but would be a great location for the Midwest show. College town has a lot to offer. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
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I think we started a new Z club . BtownZ Club. BZC Met some friends at C& C
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Interesting paperwork that came with the car shows the exchange of owners somewhere CA. BMV paper has statement from owner stating car was in storage from 1988-1996 - and at that time had 58k miles. Presently the odometer reads 59k miles. Looking over the car at every angle I would say the mileage probably could be correct , though no way to verify. I do have some names to try and seek out info. Accept for damage causing rust on the floor boards , this car is really clean. Only other damage I found besides the floor is the radiator core support was dinged somewhere in its life and I think I can dolly that straight.
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Isn't that rewarding when it just WORKS!
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Question - have you test fitted that damper yet? My buddy got one and it wouldn't fit on the crankshaft snout. ID was too small
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Oops- sorry about the bad link. Its been discussed everywhere and many aftermarket systems use an adjustable J pipe to tune OUT drone issues. Maybe more of a situation for performance exhaust and engines then stock. Overly complicated ? Yes maybe for a stock car. If I can fix a drone noise precisely with welding in a pipe instead of another muffler , I think that a simple solution . A secondary pipe 24" long is much easier to package than another muffler . It can be bent to put anywhere and it doesn't get hot like a regular muffler does. So in MY situation it might be a simpler fix actually. Making it adjustable is the key and I just figured how I will. Two different size pipes to slide over each other and length can be adjusted . Band clamps are used to hold adjustments for test driving or permanent hold.
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Just made my reservation to go up- now hope Mother Nature cooperates
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Here's an interesting article with all the math- it makes my head hurt- but you can dial in for your engine. my exhaust system can't be compared to anyone else's , but did the sake of discussion we can say 6-2 header with 2" pipes all the way back to two oval turbo mufflers. Let's say drone is between 2000-2500 https://www.performancetrucks.net/forums/gm-engine-exhaust-performance-21/how-build-exhaust-resonator-tube-eliminate-drone-489463/
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Figured I'd update this thread( I have too many), but still very happy with my MS conversion. I actually think my tune has brought me close to the power levels I was running on triples . I am happy to have this kind of performance with just an N42 intake and my little amount of experience with MS. It's a steep learning curve , but there are folks that can help in this site and others to get someone going. Programmable ECU is a viable way of getting serious performance without switching to carbs ( for you guys with EFI Z's ) Can't thank Chickenman enough for his support . I owe him a couple more dinners - at least - but I will take care of him!
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I have glass packs ( resonators ) ahead of oval mufflers . The glasspacks help a little but as they break in they are less effective. Yes Mark- that's what I'm taking about. Richard - I'm running twin 2" pipes. Packaging is the issue . There's no room for ovals where the glasspacks are in the tunnel. There would be room for a T'd pipe. Most projects I've seen the pipes are very close to the mufflers so I don't know if they would be as effective further upstream . If not I might be able to package things differently
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What I read on some other sites was that the resonator pipe ideal length was 24-26" per pipe, so 1 H pipe would need to be 5 ft . I do have a crossover in there now, but that was meant for scavenging , and I would gladly do away with it for a bit more civility at lower rpms
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I have twice the issue with twice pipes . I run oval in the back with round resonators up front , combined with headers . I thought I could ditch the round resonators for something like this type resonator .
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Anyone try this ? With all my mufflers and resonators I am still dissatisfied with my drone at low rpm loads. I'm about done trying any other mufflers so I'm going to try this type resonator . It might be a matter of where it will fit as far as location . I might actually be able to get rid of my muffler - resonators and loose some weight going this style . The pic is just a general idea but I've read that just a length of pipe will do , sounds like around 24" piece does the trick. It can be basically attached at a 90 degree angle to the pipe, but after that it can be bent to fit anywhere .
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I still say a heavy deadblow or actual sledge hammer and standing on the strut towers swinging it like a lumber jack will be needed to SHOCK it loose. You need weight and shock to bust it loose . You need to hit it from every available angle to find that weak spot. I've had to beat these heads before WITHOUT any stud broken . Just take all appropriate cautions . soon there will be victory !!!
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More pics . I think I can save the floors and probably 98% of the original metal. Might be different when I get all the floor far off of there , but so far looks good. The chassis is really in amazing condition for a 70 or any early Z. Almost all the interior panels are good enough and any tears in the vinyl were small. This will be a very nice car for someone. I plan on doing a major refresh and selling .
