madkaw

Depends on what your doing to the head, but anything other than valve regrind and general clean up its best to spend some money at a shop that does these engines. The older heads will probably need more work =more money . Might consider a newer head design, than you are probably just looking at some clean up vs. guides, seatz, blah blah

Early e88?

Forgot to attach the file

1982 diesel 810 wagon with sport wheels! So I drove this thing today and everything still works on it despite suffering midwest rust and 210k miles. I think I'll just putt around in it this winter and then cannibalize it in the spring- unless something breaks on it that is expensive to fix. This car had the original window sticker and business sales card from the Datsun dealer

Curious if the pistons had a positive deck height (above the block) and how much?

Deck height?

Cliff, moving the cam timing won't help you with ignition timing.

I think I'm being too paranoid that my instructions are not clear enough ,and or misleading , so I missed the humor - thanks. Also trying to relax the idea that it is voodoo to change valve timing, but you do need to do it right.

Anytime that sprocket gets removed , the tensioner tool should be in place-if that's what you are asking. This is based on the presumption that later adjustments the oil pan will be on and you want to make sure the chain stays put on the crank

Cliff, it is that easy if you take the proper precautions . Once you have the engine properly set up as far as #1 on the initial install(bright link stuff), it's just a matter of changing settings on the cam sprocket later on if you want. You could set up #1 right now and after running the motor for a while or after break in , just move up to #3 and see if the butt dyno feels any different. But what about getting the shiny links in the right spot? NOT necessary. Procedure: Get #1 cylinder to TDC COMPRESSION STROKE. I usually take #1 spark plug out and stick a vacuum plug in there or something that will pop out when the piston comes up on compression. It doesn't have to be exact, but you should see the #1 mark somewhere around the 2 o'clock position. WAIT, no shiny link? IT DOES NOT MATTER, as long as your are TDC compression stroke. Now take a rag and clean off the chain link that is corresponding to #1 mark and then color it in with a permanent marker. DON"T FORGET TO USE YOUR CHAIN TENSIONER TOOL NOW! Now take out the cam sprocket bolt and spin the sprocket around until the number you want corresponds with the marked link. You will probably have to turn the cam a bit to get the sprocket to drop in place. This is probably the most frustrating part of the process and can be the most stressfull. Don't be afraid, just a slight turn either way should allow the dowel to line up. I'm thinking maybe a quarter inch of movement will get it. Don't panic if it take several tries. It takes a little bit of effort to pull up the sprocket and slide it into the exact spot. Now get the bolt back in the sprocket. DON"T FORGET THE TENSIONER TOOL!!

Get everything set up for #1 where you know everything lines up correctly. Then stick your chain tensioner securing tool in there, take out the cam bolt and spin the sprocket around to #2- done!

Charles is right on with the white undercoat. My red pops and I know it's because of the white sealer.

Cliff, I have a Nismo sprocket, but I believe the increments are the same -4 degrees each hole. I am 8 degrees advanced, but that's where it landed trying to match isky's card. Most cam profilers build in some advance on the cam, so guys that just install straight up are okay. I've shot for getting the intake to close on the numbers which builders like Racer Brown say is essential. My head has had about .030 shaved off so it's not surprising that I have had to advance it. My Schneider cam ran on #2 to get the numbers. The procedure is easy to change the timing and I've got it down to about a 20 minute job, so I don't mind trying new stuff. I haven't driven enough performance L's to compare, but I think going for low end(advanced valve timing) on the L24 with a bigger cam seems to give an overall good performing motor. And I don't know WTF is with the bullet points-must be my cheap computer- And yes Lumens, that's my Z.

Kind of my set up since I have 6-2 to duals. It's nice to be able to swap from front carbs to rear. Of course you have the odd man out with the center carb. When my idle was so funky, I found after switching the sensor back to front that I had a lean conditions. On #1 carb. When I richened it up mixture the idle got perfect. It's nice to be able to split your troubleshooting ability like that. But then you spiral into the consuming obsession of perfect running carbs as you try to achieve 14.7 Sometimes I wish I just pulled the spark plugs and called it a day-

nice

I'd say that the engine was built to handle 50's. It would be hard to compare this this maticullously prepared head to any stock production Z head. It definetly can flow more air thus the bigger bores. It will be interesting to see Derek's DOHC head in comparison

I meant 42 or 44, but a .048 shave probably puts you back at 39 or less. Flat tops might put you to high, but dished pistons are okay.

I believe that depends what year e88. Could be 42cc or 47cc . Either way, your CR will be high!

I'm going to keep it a driver for now. Going to use it like a pick up truck and keep the crank oiled up. It's got 210k miles , but just needs shocks and brakes. Might be able to sell off the trans too. Wish I had a 4 speed auto when I owned my zxt.

looks like I have aquired the elusive maxima diesel crank, and the whole damn car with it-

I know EXCATLY what you mean Kenny. Always trying to extract that last bit of ponies. I should have been satisfied a log time ago, but I would go in and tinker, but that time is almost over. After this next dyno the Mikunis are going on to someone else(highest bidder!) I'm going FI and not looking back. Jim, not sure who you were addressing. My fuel supply issuewas all a fuel filter issue. My new Carter high volume 4psi pump has been great.

It's my understanding that the accel pump sizing effects how quickly the fuel dumps more than overall amount. So even being careful you might be overloading things. The 40's might spread the squirt over a larger are of time thus making it easier for the engine to digest. When you "blip' the throttle several times does the engine respond quickly every time or does it start to bog a bit with fuel?

Still pretty damn happy. Going to try and make it to the dyno before mother nature has other ideas. Be beating on her pretty hard, but she comes back for more. The other day i tried retarding the cam timing(basically going straight up mark#1), and didn't like it. Going back to #3 advance. Gave up low end for no appreciable top end . I'd almost like to advance the timing some more, but now we are talking a whole tooth :-0 , and valves getting closer. My trans went from a bad 3rd gear to a bad 2nd gear. I'm glad to have third gear fully operational since I can do everything in that gear. I know a lot of folks don't like the wide ratio, but it makes a great everything gear and I can get almost 100mph out of it. Current redline set at 7200rpm. Did a valve adjustment yesterday and my Isky regrind looks pretty and polished. NO LEAKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Kenny, looking at your numbers, not sure why you are trying to dial out a spike above the cam rpm specs. That profile is probably good for 6500, so if it gets a bit rich up there I wouldn't worry much. If I remember right, the main airs adjust the final AFR by about .5 for every size. Also, those are big accel pumps. You are dumping a lot of fuel all at once. So the low afr's might be fuel burning off from the accel dump-heavy Toa layer. I would back off to 40's if you have them. By the way folks, my car running out fuel issue was just that. See thread about Mr.gasket fuel filter My current set up to date 65 pilots 1.5 turns 145 mains 40 accels 200 main airs Third gear WOT is around 13.5 Fourth gets around 12.5 might drop back to 140 mains. I need to move my wideband to other collector to check against first 3 cylinders. #6 dribbles a little fuel which might skew my AFR's. Also I would add that I had a lean issue on first carb that was remedied by sanding down my insolators. The plastic insolator were not completely flat, some warpage and low spots which i believe kept the oring from sealing. Right now motor is running fantastic.

Don't give up your parking brake, you'll miss it. I have Wildwood kit front and back and I stall was easy enough and never have had an issue. In hindsight I might have completely redone rear drums with new parts and kept my parking brake for a non- race car cruiser. You can source some clean backing plates and powder coat them, buy new drums and wheel cylinders and hardware with performance shoes , combine with some Wildwood front brakes and have a killer set up.