madkaw
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Everything posted by madkaw
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Checked fuel cap and didn't seem to vent easily, so I removed vent-no difference. Time to check entire supply system
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I agree with your suspicions. The point I was trying to get confirmed was that the pressure gauge might not tell me much. If partial blockage raises pressure the regulator will just adjust, but am I getting the same volume of fuel? Is my reasoning sound or not. not venting also crossed my mind. I've tried to duplicate the venting system with my Jeep tank. Maybe my tank vent valve in the engine bay is not working.
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My gauge always seems to show good pressure and I run my set up dead headed. What if I was getting a partial blockage on the supply between the tank and the regulator. Would this drive the pressure up but limit volume and my regulator would keep it at 3psi. Thinking about just pulling the fuel line after the regulator and just watch it run for 10 minutes into a gallon container.
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Need some ideas folks. I seem to be chasing my tail on my tune. My carbs will be great , steady idle , smooth thru the dreaded transition areas and then it changes, all in the same day. The car will die at idle arbitrarily. I can watch my AFRS go lean until she just seems to run out of gas. The other day, probably the second day driving it the tune was amazing. Transition stayed right around 14 and it didn't lean out and felt powerful right thru the rpms- this is normal driving conditions. Then all the sudden I have lea out issues in transition. New fuel pump, regulator set at 3psi. So I guess I need to check my tank and lines for some kind of partial blockage?
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Still no leaks. Valve train is quiet. Cam looks great. Power is there. Plugs are tan. So far so good.
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Nope. The Maxima project got shelved so I could finish the L24 . Soon it will be back off the shelf though. Can't imagine I lost much size and I will be gaining it all back and then some after Unshrouding the valves. The end number is what I'm really interested in!
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So being to lazy to look up - I ask if this lapping is instead of doing a actual valve job? I thought lapping was for just that last bit of perfection , but not actually necessary. But not to be done instead of doing an actual valve job ( cutting)
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You know all the views for that video are mostly mine - ha. For all those times I couldn't drive it in the last year.
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Well to stop chasing my tail I put the dizzy and wires back on to take the MS out of the equation for any running issues. When I installed the Ole School ignition back on I made sure to do it in a way that was completely separate power sources from the MS set up and to make the swap fast and easy. Happy to say that the engine is back and stronger than ever. Not hardly broke in but breaking the tires loose between gears for that lovely "chirping sound". Acceleration is very quick and pulls hard until I'm scared to Rev anymore:) What's really nice is the jetting seems to be in a very good place for all aspects of driving. I'm not touch the carbs for a long while. Trans shifts flawlessly up and down. I can just drive it and enjoy it for a while.
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I know I will be making myself some kind of fixture to install my seals--ONCE I figure how to install them. I think the little margin for error warrants the effort to make a fixture .
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I would think you would want to look straight down from the top of the valve stem and look for distortion that way. any buldging will probably be no good as it will cause gaps around the valve stem. Get a bright light and cheaters and maybe a magnifying glass too!
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The pistons were made that way. The machinist should size bore based on skirt size. The biggest issue is rings. Rings usually are sized for standard overbore. Since the skirt is over the overbore size, and you allow clearance too, then you are too big for rings.
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I think the idea of having the valve in place is to use it as a guide to slide the seal on ( with the condom). I don't have actual experience but this is what I've read
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Go to Hybridz and FAQ'S and look at the engine section
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My car was an automatic, but not considered series 1 , so probably doesn't help
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Clear cut line in the e88 head variations? It would be hard to say unless someone was positive they had original equipment and they had the head off to see the chambers. My 9/71 - IF it is all original, which I think it is, had the same chambers as the e31, or the early head. My head has been chopped .030 (39cc chambers measured)and is running fine on 93 octane.
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Diesel cranks, Lsds, I'm heading over to Charles place-
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Most effective change or modification - fun list ?
madkaw replied to Unkle's topic in Open Discussions
Dual exhaust system. Effective as far as performance- who knows, but very effective as producing the most beautiful exhaust sound I've owned in a car. -
Made my own ignition table based on some ms guys over at hybridz and basic parameters of the dizzy. Lots of perfecting to do. This would be much easier with FI
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I believe the Megasquirt can be set up for numerous "missing tooth" versions. Not sure if it is more accurate my way or with a hole every 90 degrees. The software knows it is 360 degrees, but not where to start-thus the missing tooth. Once the computer knows where 0 is, it can set timing of the spark where you input it on the software. It's a wasted spark set-up for me, another words it fires the spark every 360 degrees instead of 720. Ignition set up is a steep learning curve-at least for me. They say its harder than setting up fuel, so I should have it easier there. The drilling of the flywheel is definitely the cheapest route. The sensor is 30$.
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I also have the C clamp style which worked very well with the head off the block.
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You don't need that many reference holes. I think the guy I got the idea from had 3
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It's a gear tooth sensor, so it picks up small deviations, Those holes aren't very deep, maybe 1/4" deep or so. I drilled it myself. I used my degree wheel to mark it off. I did have it rebalanced to make sure. As far as accuracy, the MS unit ran fine with my garage high tech drilling. I used my drill press and marked the bit to have consistent depth.
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Sorry for the short answer Charles, and I see that my thread didn't show the flywheel. The flywheel has drilled holes at every 10 degrees which the gear tooth sensor picks up. I will find the pic somewhere.
