madkaw

It's my understanding that the accel pump sizing effects how quickly the fuel dumps more than overall amount. So even being careful you might be overloading things. The 40's might spread the squirt over a larger are of time thus making it easier for the engine to digest. When you "blip' the throttle several times does the engine respond quickly every time or does it start to bog a bit with fuel?

Still pretty damn happy. Going to try and make it to the dyno before mother nature has other ideas. Be beating on her pretty hard, but she comes back for more. The other day i tried retarding the cam timing(basically going straight up mark#1), and didn't like it. Going back to #3 advance. Gave up low end for no appreciable top end . I'd almost like to advance the timing some more, but now we are talking a whole tooth :-0 , and valves getting closer. My trans went from a bad 3rd gear to a bad 2nd gear. I'm glad to have third gear fully operational since I can do everything in that gear. I know a lot of folks don't like the wide ratio, but it makes a great everything gear and I can get almost 100mph out of it. Current redline set at 7200rpm. Did a valve adjustment yesterday and my Isky regrind looks pretty and polished. NO LEAKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Kenny, looking at your numbers, not sure why you are trying to dial out a spike above the cam rpm specs. That profile is probably good for 6500, so if it gets a bit rich up there I wouldn't worry much. If I remember right, the main airs adjust the final AFR by about .5 for every size. Also, those are big accel pumps. You are dumping a lot of fuel all at once. So the low afr's might be fuel burning off from the accel dump-heavy Toa layer. I would back off to 40's if you have them. By the way folks, my car running out fuel issue was just that. See thread about Mr.gasket fuel filter My current set up to date 65 pilots 1.5 turns 145 mains 40 accels 200 main airs Third gear WOT is around 13.5 Fourth gets around 12.5 might drop back to 140 mains. I need to move my wideband to other collector to check against first 3 cylinders. #6 dribbles a little fuel which might skew my AFR's. Also I would add that I had a lean issue on first carb that was remedied by sanding down my insolators. The plastic insolator were not completely flat, some warpage and low spots which i believe kept the oring from sealing. Right now motor is running fantastic.

Don't give up your parking brake, you'll miss it. I have Wildwood kit front and back and I stall was easy enough and never have had an issue. In hindsight I might have completely redone rear drums with new parts and kept my parking brake for a non- race car cruiser. You can source some clean backing plates and powder coat them, buy new drums and wheel cylinders and hardware with performance shoes , combine with some Wildwood front brakes and have a killer set up.

Might look at the first page of the Triple Mikuni Thread. I made the linkage piece between the firewall and the carbs. Either I got lucky or made it right, but it's been flawless. Real good pedal feel and never hangs up, better than stock SU's. I feel your pain with those annoying items that take away from the ride!

No, I never did try this. It seems all that I have read says 400-500 for 4 or 5 hours. I was also considering a powder coating shop for the job. Need to make a hefty fixture to bolt down the head to. My head is probably. 030 out, so it would take good size shims. I came across 2 more good heads so there was no need to rush into this fix. I'm going to use my warped mn47 for the flow bench so it doesn't matter much

Last time I mentioned here ,the fact I was going to straighten a head ,it was considered crazy talk. The fact is there is few shops that will do this. Usually just told to find another head. Bolt it down with some shims and throw it in the oven with the chicken dinner and see how it comes out. Cook it low and slow though!

I never had a problem with the first one. Just a dumb design that could be prone to problems .

You need to look at the possibility that the head gasket has been compromised by overheating . So now your temps are steady when running? Might borrow or use a pressure tester that mounts on the radiator. Put it on and run the car and see if pressure rises too high. Start pulling spark plug wires while pressure is rising and see if pressure drops.

Bought this little gem because I thought the idea was good to see when things got dirty. It left me stranded on the road at 11pm on the way to work. Had to leave my Z in a church parking lot until towed to a buddies house. I had previous issues with my engine acting like it ran out of fuel, but blamed my Mikuni's and my Holley regulator. You could see fuel in the glass so I ASSumed all was good. after it left me stranded me and my buddies dug into things and found that the fuel flow stopped at the BRAND NEW filter. The cartridge filter is held inplace on a threaded pipe by a nut. I guess they didn't get it tight during assembly and the nut was free to rome up and down the threads. It eventually loosened up all the way to one end which then CLOSED off the only entry holes for incoming fuel. BAD DESIGN-period. I called Mr Gasket and let them know. Might be different if I had assembled it or the instructions said to check tightness, but it did not. I threw the SOB away and bought a 5$ plastic one. signed P.O.d

Do it, that's close to me and would love to see it!!

Datsun reliability wins!! Not sure how a 944 that does 9mph more on the straight away is even in the same class. Way to hang in there Greg . Nice way to retire from EP!

Cliff, I think you are being a little paranoid, but I understand. I think cold specs will be fine for break in. After your initial set up and run check them hot . My conversations with Schneider I was told that the 20 minute break in at 2000 didn't apply to our valve train- just saying what I was told. Did I do 20 minutes, not exactly . Definetly not 20 at 2000. Didn't do it on either of my Schneider or Isky cam. The issues I experienced were with improper valve guide install, but the wear on cam lobes looked perfect. Just think about how many folks have everything dialed in so well on a total rebuild that it just fires up and runs for 20 minutes no issues to deal with. It seems to me that a lot of cam issues are from not making sure the system is primed well enough for instant oil on the cam with start up. Prime the motor with a drill and watch the oil bleed out on to your can before you ever start the motor. A slight valve clearance issue will not hurt anything.

I guess when I considered an answer I should have remembered that I was using light springs, so wear wasn't a concern. My machinist just used permanent marker with light springs. Probably with full on springs a little lube wod be good.

Pretty^

I don't see why you need to grease if it is spotlessly clean!

Look at my MS3X install thread on Hybridz or the thread I did hear .

So did you loosen the crank pulley bolt back up and tried to turn the pulley to see if turns(key gone). I think I would want to see ALL of the bolt too, to make sure it didn't break in half. That Murphy guy sure has a sense of humor-

Wow, what a challenge. Sucked that it made your race day short-crapcan race? Loose damper could lead to sheared keys .

So have you verified that at TDC #1- compression stroke- that the dizzy shaft is at the proper 11:25 position and that the rotor is lined up with 1 plug? Please understand with any posts regarding shiny links is irrelevant UNLESS you have the timing cover off to see the crank sprocket. What ignition issues were you having prior to this?

Looks like about the same specs as the Carter. Is it quiet? I also went with the carter because it is in line and will package well for my tight space.

Dam, I cannot see this file

Well it wasn't terrible, but the pressure wasn't stable. At WOT pressure dropped to 2psi. Pressure was also shaky in transitional areas. Upon looking at the numbers on my fuel pump I realized that I had installed (and recommended-sorry) a pump that probably is slightly to small in volume. The rx7 pump was made for a 1.2 liter rotary and requires only 15 gph(2-4psi) Maybe sufficient for a stock Z with SU'S , but not enough for my engine. I have ordered a Carter p60504 to replace my pump. It's rated 4psi at 30 gph. Reading Racetep ' s page they run Carters with 4psi and no regulator on all there set ups. Waiting on the pump and leaving the pressure gauge in place to see the changes. I will say that after adjusting my Holley regulator up right to 4 psi the car ran really well- EXCEPT it stumbles in transition sometimes and I can watch the wideband go lean. I'm thinking -hoping - the increased flow with help keep float levels at optimum level to combat my lean issue. We will see

Sorry to hear the news. Glad no one was hurt.

Time to drive .