madkaw

Sounds just like my 2.4- Looks likes a blast Jon, and a family project too-even better

Check with who's making what as far as piston kits. Sealed power has limited sizes now, so stick with a popular oversize like 1mm-not .030 Engines are pretty well balanced, but make sure the flywheel is balanced, might consider lightening it, and get damper rebuilt or get a new one. I have good luck with my Schneider cam, but Isky has history with racing Datsuns. Just have your original cam reground for 125$ by Isky or Sunbelt and save some $$ and have the proper metallurgy to match your stock rockers. The more money you put in the head will outweigh anything else you do to the motor. Consider using an engine builder familiar with these engines. Check your rockers, since finding good ones or reputable rebuilt ones are hard to find. Consider newer, better ignition system.

Isn't all this advice based on the hope that the pulley and pointer are in proper condition? More than likely it is. Finding TDC in the above suggestions should all be done in the same direction of rotation. The only true way to find TDC is with a degree wheel and a piston stop-but that's for true cam timing adjustments! This way you can go back and forth and take the difference and eliminate the chain slack aspect.

Well slow down dude! So it is a tooth off? It takes some luck and a couple of tries to get it right. Timing lights are good for troubleshooting. These cars are also prone to detonation so it's nice to know when you are close to those limits. The ole "advance till it pings and then back off a couple of degrees", works on most cars, but an unexperienced ear might not pick up detonation before it's too late. My argument for accurate or at least verifiable timing.

The latest timing figures seem right and the plugs look good, so if it runs good I wouldn't sweat it. Are you sure the dizzy/oil pump shaft is clocked correctly? Might be off a tooth.

I have a 1982 zxt harness that I have been pecking away at for years. Connectors and good wire!

Bad part is that the leak is right where the oil supply hole is for the head, so keep an eye on things. So did the leak come with the cold weather? Might as well try a retorque!

This is going to be another "Countdown to Zcon" thread for me. Somehow I will get it done. I have met a Z owner in my town that is finishing up his 71, so I know there will be at least 2 of us from Indiana. When Zcon gets this close, you've got to make it. I hope to do all the events too-racing ,show, dragstrip, bring it on!!!!!

Don't think it would run if it was really 34 degrees. If it did- it would run ON something's not right with the marks. Correct pulley? Slipped pulley?

Interesting-thanks for sharing

Just find another strut housing. It probably was damaged in a wreck or something. You spend more time and money trying to repair that one then just finding a good one.

Chris, I have never had a lean issue with my pump and I run triples off the rx7 pump

I can't imagine that being normal. DO NOT trust stock gauge- mount a direct oil pressure gauge. The stock gauge is slow to react. How high are the numbers?

Damn, I didn't get any z parts from my wife, so I ordered my own😜 I ordered an Exedy stage 1 clutch off of eBay . Price was too good to pass up!

I just received a complete engine gasket kit from Rock-auto, it is a Felpro kit. The reason I like Felpro is that no seals are cork. The kit is 20$ more than the others, but much better in my opinion. The HG seems to be a newer design and looks good.

If you are asking whether the fuel pump wires are 14 gauge , then yes I think you are correct. As long as you use a quality stranded wire and don't undersize you should be good.

Cost is a relative term. Not sure if you could have a better tool in your tool box for a carbed engine for 200$. It's not a tool that just lays in your box and you only use it once every other year. You will be staring at it all the time inside your car watching how your engine devours fuel under every load. Anyway, if you read reviews, it is like anything else, you get what you pay for. Sounds like AEM is the way to go. I have had good luck with my Innovate, but replaced o2 sensor twice.

You could just look at the pictures! Who reads all that technical stuff with engine porn

The clunk can come from almost anything loose under there. The diff mounting nuts only have to be loose a half a turn and it will make noise. Check everything and get rid of the strap and get something else-it's probably the cause

I will just say that the ZX trans was meant for a 3.90 diff factory with the gearing. You have increased tire size considerably from stock so that offsets your gearing. You probably are closer to 4.11 gearing in the back with those tires. It should make for fun and quick Z.

Maybe... It's so frustrating, though. I wouldn't have misrepresented the condition of MY car to get someone else to embark on a 1000 mi journey to see it! My faith in mankind has reached newer lows. I was polite, but.... geeeeesh! Everyone thinks their car is better than what it really is... I'd be glad to check out anything locally to me, Since I have had experience with what to look for. There is also companies that will go check out a car for you for like 99$ . They might not be experienced with Datsuns, but they should be able to give you a non partisan evaluation.

http://stlouis.craigslist.org/cto/4751332857.html

It going to be tough to find a clean one. There was one here in Indiana that was on CL that was show condition for 8500$. Seems like a lot but it would be well worth the extra $ to not do bodywork. Surely the CZCC brothers can help you find something .

The rear bumpers were a multi layer construction which was a bad idea. The layers rusted on each other and caught road crap. The rear inner fender is where the spare tire well is at and they rusted also. I think you were seeing typical stuff. My daughters car frame rails were also all bashed in from improper jacking and bottoming out.

Who cares if it's a Maaco paint job. Paint is all about prep or what is under the paint. I'd rather have a cheap paint job on a good body and repaint it, then trying to patch in a better paint job on a crappy body. I'd also rather have an unmolested car then someone elses project, unless the money they invested was done right and brought value instead of headaches