madkaw

Like I said Sarah, these years were prone to rust everywhere including the windshield . My daughters car had actual holes under the SS trim. Lower rear quarters and pull the spare wheel out, the floor rusts there and everywhere. Stripping a car is big work especially with the amount of trim on these cars. Maybe you want a DIY car as far as paint, but I would raise my budget for the ZX models to get a rust free version. IMHO

Here's my Sarah in her 81zxt. I really liked this car in Black! S30 seats in the tan would have looked pretty good in there now you mention it. Those are some pretty big seats-and heavy.

The lash pad size is a suggestion based on new rockers which are no longer available . What is wrong with the ones on your head now? You can have the old ones resurfaced by Delta cams for cheap. You could also order new Chromemolly ones from RHD Japan for 600$

Warning , The ZX 's were bad about rust around the windshields , so look there closely. Also spare tire areas. Also avoid auto climate control.

Don't think you can go wrong with that advice. I think I am running the Ford blue seals on mine.

If I was home I would check for you, but I believe that's right- neutral switch. Have a DS made , you will be better off.

It has sparked debate on the triples about the balance tube and tuning with it attached. I set my triples without the balance tune first, then I balance with it installed . I would think in most cases with SU's it would not be necessary , but in a weird deal like this it might be required.

So I wonder in these instances of carb balance issue if it would benefit to isolate them better by removing balance tube and plugging the intakes ?

"Romp advance " should mostly be handled by your mechanical-thus why you figure total advance with vacuum DISCONNECTED and RPMS above 3000. Cruise is high vacuum low load situation and vacuum advance gives that additional timing ABOVE your mechanical for economy and lean burn.

You are all set with Blue just around the corner😀

I'd say you are fighting multiple issues. If that float hose is bending replace it or it will impede flow. As far as the flow balance, don't forget these manifolds have a balance bar that will attempt to even out vacuum issues between carbs. It's a rather large pipe too. I don't know what to say about the timing. So at idle 32 degrees- really?

WOW-still seems like an awful lot of guessing for me. As far as ignition advance timing figures --Does Dave recurve the dizzy? If not, all advance should be in by 4000rpm easily. Spitting carbs could be ignition so you should be sure with it before taking apart your carbs.

I'm with Zed- it seems CRAZY that you don't get that info with the engine. Too many unknowns for an expensive HP engine. Bad timing can cause a lot of noise

I wouldn't trust any answer except from the builder

Well if the assembly is shorter-couldn't that be the issue? If the new assembly is shorter I would shim it out with washers to match the old assembly to if that makes a difference. There probably is a limited amount of travel that can be done at the tang that can't overcome the actual assembly length issue.

I would say the needles you have, the 1.7 is a sizing number and they are actually smaller than the original. 2.0s. Did you save the old ones to compare? Did you try putting the old ones back in? Also, you have adjusted the floats so many times, you haven't marred up the tang so the needle is hanging up? Not that I am demanding an answer, but you didn't directly answer(sorry if I missed it) if you check tightness of the needle assembly or made sure all washers were in place.

It's an easy quick check and necessary with solid lifter heads. Just check them and eliminate that, plus you can have a peek under the valve cover for anything else that looks odd.

Interesting ! Trying to think why valve train would be much noisier? Maybe time to double check valve clearances?

Did you have Gas Monkey help you?

Yep-you have some decisions to make. a .30 over L28-even with dished pistons will be high CR. IMHO, with no quench in dished pistons, it might not be the best option. Might need to much timing pulled. I think flat top L28 .030 over would put you around 11 to 1 , not sure what dished pistons would be. L24 will be fun and I run full timing with that set-up. Maybe not as torquey as the l28, but I got 155RWHP with SU's. Like said-you will need to modify the block for bigger valves, but you can do that yourself.

Putting this on a L28 or l24? If it's going to be l28 you definetly want to open up the chamber. I would also measure out the chamber size for reference. There's no polish necessary, just some sand paper and patience.

Check out this link. Somehow my head ended up on an Aussy web site. Although it's a E-88, its the same as yours http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php?topic=6012.0

Easy way to tell is just lay a HG against the chamber. I'd say NO to unshrouding has been done. You can still do it now if careful and would highly recommend it. Make sure you get rid of all the sharp edges and any spark plug threads showing! I'll try and find a pic of mine.

Needle and seat assembly is tight and any appropriate washers are used on the valve assembly? How did you check to see if the needle was sealing off the fuel flow?

Chris , Look at my triple set up . I made a balance tune from a fuel rail. The 123 ignition is using a map sensor if I understand correctly , so a strong vacuum signal would be best.