madkaw

It’s a Magna flow I think - not many choices 2” 2 in&out .

Finally going to redo my exhaust to gain clearance - remove resonators , add performance cat , and all new pipe from to back to front Besides the awkward and painful positions to do exhausts without a 6ft lift , I kind of enjoy crafting an exhaust system . I just buy and bunch of mandrel bends and pie cut what I need . Dual 2” gets tight :-0 Starting the first leg getting to the cat . Might challenge myself to TIG it

Be careful? As you can see from my pics I had to take the seats apart to do this. Don't remember melting anything . I've slept too many days to remember specifics

They know their stuff there . I am truly impressed by their CV axles . That’s size should work . The +11 helps the tire clear in the rear wheel arch

I believe it’s just a bit bigger

My buddy and I were talking about this web site and we both were complaining about the ridiculously small the font is on the pages . I would think with a majority of old geezers on here this subject would have brought this up before ? maybe you have , but it does take away from the fun of being on this site. This is the only car site I'm on that has this I have this issue with . Hybridz font is small, but its bigger than this . If there is a way to change the font just for this site I'd like to know

There wasn’t any suitable replacements forever and running a used one wasn’t thrilling to me . I’d say there’s more to go wrong with the pipe attached to the cam towers then oil coming right out of the cam. Didn’t realize that was a new cam oiler - which is great . Not saying one method is better than another , but it was hard to find new ones . I tried an aftermarket one that I had to modify the valve cover for it to fit -BS .

Got to say - surprised anyone messes with the spray bars . Looks like a new one , but they still scare me

Have you ridden in or driven a stroker Datsun yet ? You are going to love it !

The MN heads are going further down the production line finally . Worked all the ports except for the last head in which I had to remove liners because of damage . The pic is just a exhaust with some work done . Off to get vapor honed and then on to the machine shop for valves and machining . Then back here for assembly

Available to the highest bidder . I’ve had a lot of interest over this truck . I’ve also got more in it than most will pay - lol

I have not , but own a 83- 720 and have rebuilt it . It’s as easy as you thought. Stub axles bolt in . Pinion flange probably needs to be swapped . Studs on cover should be in the right place

It is indeed the same R-180 used on the trucks and cars . Swap flanges and go . Good thing is that diff has probably hardly used , and there are some nice low gear sets to be had . 3.90, 4.11, 4.56 if you drop the front diff crossmember complete with diff attached it will hang of the studs on the moustache bar . Just make sure you break the torque on the moustache bar first . Loosen those nuts to within just a few threads of coming off. Transmission scissor jack from Harbor Freight really helps here

No - they were right , but a 40 year old pump is what it is . My Walbro is in the tank and it’s not too bad noise levels . Plan on spending about 250$ for a quality pump that is quiet

Why would mess with an original old pump when you have all that time invested in your motor ? I would invest in a good pump !

Armature is getting worn - it’s warning you REPLACE ME !

Exhaust isn’t loud enough . You are running the original pump?

I hope you plan on dyno testing that thing ! Your car looks fantastic . Very nice work . Without going thru the whole thread , does this thread show how you did your fusible links ? My buddy getting ready to do a Megasquirt on his 78 , which is much different than my 71.

The owner is a stand up guy that does a lot zinc plating that he sells . I’ve done business with him - very professional . 80k - mine is going on the market

Have you read this thread https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/42960-triple-mikuni-thread/

That might buy you more room . Make sure #1 rod is TDC and out of the way to help clear crossmember

Don’t remember leaving any gap - I wanted it clamped down .

I remember reading about these and never replaced mine on my car . The issue for me is that I can remove the seal and the door closes perfectly and is aligned nicely . Put the seal back in and the door has to be slammed and it pushes the door out . I spent countless hours with my original precision rubber seals. I shimmed, adjusted , oiled, altered the catches . I thought it was my door . Put Kias on and blam- everything works fine .

I still get a thud unloading the drivetrain at low rpms in a higher gear . I still dance with the clutch to avoid the thud and I have the sandwich set up . Sometimes I think my r-180 moustache bar is not up to the task of 230 ft pounds and posi tract rear . I’ve about given up trying to figure it out what the noise is . I can drive my car hard and never hear a thud , but under certain circumstances i get a distinct thud . If I cruise around 40 mph in 4th gear and keep the throttle steady and push the clutch pedal in and out , it will thud every time letting the clutch out . That’s releasing the clutch swiftly . Granted - I don’t drive that way - but wonder where all that movement is