madkaw

This is one reason I am currently working on a FG option for a dash replacement. Our options are expensive or a PITA like the problem you are dealing with now. I will eventually start a thread on this when I get a little further on this option. My FG guy has a dash now and we are discussing the next steps! I know you can use a heat gun to flatten the plastic or mold it if that is an option.

Clean your engine thoroughly until it is spotless. THEN starting trying to find your leak.

Chas, thanks for the info, didn't realize there was 2 versions of the BWT-5 in the USA(didn't read that on hybridz:)) I will have to see what version I have. To the OP, do you have the right DS for this set-up ?

Por-15 is a good product, but as Jeff stated, it still requires lot's of work. You shouldn't bash a product if you didn't take the effort to do it right. Just saying it was terrible says nothing.

Ummm, you posted this on hybridz right? CZCC is an awesome site, but the better wealth of knowledge on swaps is on Hybridz. Looks like the diff has been welded, might want to google pro's and cons on that.As I posted in Hybridz, have you addressed the issue of the driveshaft and the diff flange? Yes a 3.54 would be better, but you seemed insistant that you weren't going to do a diff swap! Where's the diff if you have everything else from the zxt? IMHO, the 3.90 would be a mistake with that trans or with a turbo motor-especially both. Don't worry-it only costs time and money-

You are at a crossroads. You could try additional glasspacks midway in the system, but not sure if it will quiet it down much. You won't beable to find a chambered muffler that will easily mate up with the system you have now. Your best option might be to sell off that system completely and start over with a single pipe system with a premuffler and muffler for quieter results.

Actually the piston tops look pretty clean too. It would be interesting to do the seafoam treatment to see how it cleans up the pistons- if it does

Are you beginning to think you bought the wrong car?

I have never had much luck with the classifieds over here so I posted on Hybridz-sorry guys, don't want to leave you out. E12-80 Dizzy/coil Kit and other misc. items - Parts for Sale - HybridZ

N-27's will run plenty rich enough. Don't worry about fuel pressure for now. More effective would be a volume test of the fuel pump.

Zed, not trying to get picky, but you said you had 22 total in your dizzy(last line). This confuses some people. You have 22 degrees total of mechanical advance+ 12 degrees static timing=34

Cliff, You --are getting confused valve timing has been advance , not ignition. Two separate issues . Set your ignition to at least 14 static

Most 240's have the wiring already for an electric fuel pump, you just need to find it and activate it by completing the circuit. There has been thousands of posts on this, but pump location is up to you and there are many options on pumps. I run a RX-7 pump-quiet!

Adjusting the mixture nuts does not help your WOT issue. They are for fine tuning. If the fuel is not available there's nothing to adjust. Not sure why you haven't adjusted the floats yet, but at this point maybe you should give it try?

In all the threads I read about exhaust fumes, I never read about my issue. The hatch vinyl panel inside the car needs to be sealed against the hatch. The low pressure makes for a nice vacuum chamber inside the hatch if this panel is not sealed and it will suck a lot of air right thru the latch assembly. There is no good way to seal off the hatch-latch, because the air goes right thru the guts of the latch. Plus you have the two big grommets in the end of the hatch also. This was the fix for my issues. My exhaust is even with my valence(no bumper) and the smell is 98% gone.

Did you even read the first post before answering-

Where do you figure your power band is at? do you have forged aluminum psitons? If you do have a 'race cam", how well do you think the SU carbs will keep up with it? Have you done a searching on the Datsun motors and their limits.

cool!

I got to say, when I decide to move on to FI, I will miss these carbs. Yes there is a little fiddling to do, but i'm a fiddlerLOL Once you get these tuned right they are a real joy and VERY streetable. These perform better then my SU's and have the added tunability and power not capable on the SU's. Don't bother wanting triple carbs unless you are willing to spend money on an O2 sensor(wideband) to do some real tuning. I know for a fact that my carbs run a lean 15-16AFR at cruise in 5th gear. 4th gear is more 14ish ready to pounce into the 13 teens in WOT application. Idle is almost where I want to make it. The car starts easiest with a rich idle-12-13, but the car will idle at 750rpm in the 17-18 range. The o2 sensor will also troubleshoot for the difference between ignition problems and maybe a loose jet;) My latest find of altering the bleed tubes has made these carbs smooth as FI. My red-loctite filler for the bleed holes did not hold up over the winter fuel emersion. Just one hole opening up on the bleed pipe was felt while driving. The transition hesistaion started again, and I immediately suspected the bleed pipes-and i was right. I need to experiment with solder and filling the little holes in the brass pipes. I might actually go a little further and temp fill a couple more holes to see how things react. The only thing to make these about perfect is to be able to come up with a closed element filter or an evap system to capture all the fuel fumes that come out of the huge bowl vents. My trick of turning off the gas and running the bowls dry BEFORE entering my garage cuts down on 90% of the fumes. Soon will by dyno time. I need to play with my timing some more. I'm going to butt tune for best power and then take it to the dyno. i'm running a fairly aggressive timing now, but might be able to step up a bit. The timing will be nice for off throttle and cruise conditions also. Shooting for about 50 degrees advance during cruise! Should be able to get some serious MPG at that rate. Thinking i wouldn't mind a set of 44's or 50's on a L28 with a big cam for fun. feeling pretty confident I could tune it well.

240=260 I thought as far as body. I thought the bumper was slightly wider and had a different angle for the fillers and that prohibited it from being brought in closer the body and looking correct. Like I said, my memory is questionable. I was trying to use 240 mounts on a 260 bumper too, so that's the difference-maybe. So if you just put the bumper up against the facia it tucks next to the body cleanly?

I believe I tried modifying or mounting a 260z bumper on my 240z years ago. The bumpers are shaped differently-subtle difference, but enough that it won't just contour to the body lines by bringing it in closer. The angle is different to compensate for the fillers used on that year. If my memory serves me right there was too many modifications that had to be done to the actual bumper itself to make it worth while. Example-cutting it at the center point to bring the angle in tighter to fit the body lines. My memory has failed me before, but I think it's a lot more then just modifying mounts

Hi Arne, glad the porsche has is staying fun-good luck

An experienced Z guy and a good tune up does wonders. Sounds like a good day!

Don't forget you don't have a stock motor so stock specs might not work for fuel.i wouldn't be afraid to go 2mm richer

Yep with a .044 gap