madkaw

Adrian, I would very much like to do this project, but I might need some help .I have a buddy that will make the circuit board for me, but I will need guidance installing it. I would document everything with pics and add to this thread with your permission. I already noticed that my 71 tach looks slightly different, but I might not know what I am looking at

Just for you Charles:) Well remember the part about the wearing your readers, I guess I need a new pair. The MS has tests that you can run in the software to make sure your wiring is correct and mine did NOT pass. In test mode you can actually test fire each coil and watch the spark to see if corresponds to the correct firing order. What I found was that my coil connects were flipped around backwards and I got 3&4 cylinder miss wired. Easy test that saves lots of guessing. The software is pretty used friendly if you have done your homework. Another words, don't expect to know what your trigger settings are if you don't know what you have. Good news is I got it running!!!!

Hey, saw your pics on FB. I'm right down the road from you in Btown. Now I could help you out, but I'm damn expensive - but I'm good Seriously , I'll just trade you my tripled L24 for your L28ET Okay, maybe not. You've got a lot going on there, could be partial line blockage driving up FP. May I suggest MS Anyways, I'm close by if I can help in anyway

What's the vacuum gauge for? Was the engine fully warmed up and was idle right? What's the timing at 3000rpm? Have you tried to swap out ignition modules?

I made that statement , but when I dynoed my L24 I backed off my timing from 37 to 34 and there was no difference in HP. So only time and a few $$ at the dyno will tell.

I've done both and i understand your dilemma. Neither fix will give you the look you want if you are a perfectionist or you are looking for that soft vinyl look, so keep that in mind. The dash cover was more work then I thought to make it look really good. I used a heat gun on certain spots for the cover to follow the original lines of the dash better. Then there is the issues of the gauges that are difficult to remove with the dash cap on. Lastly , the cap doesn't cover everything. The cap falls short along side of the heater panel. I was real happy with my dash repair, except it isn't holding up. I drive my car a lot and I can see cracks reappearing. Maaybe my fix wasn't done right. I'd almost consider paying the 1000$ for a professionallly repaired dash next time, or, I am taking a dash to a CF fabricator to see about having one made completely from CF!!

You mentioned charging issues or voltage low, you need to get that right to expect your ignition to work right. Low voltage and electronic ignition don't mix. I'd be checking your voltage when the rpms bounce around. Clean up all your grounds and connections, then go from there. What type dizzy?

It would be a good valid repair and a very minor repair. You can drill JB as you probably already know. I will probably use JB to install my fuel injector bungs on my intake. You be fixed up in a day too! I would be afraid of ruining that cover with too much heat. Stuff like that is kind of hard to come by.

Just my opinion, but to try out a "brazing set-up" to fix that might not be the best choice- IMHO.

Ummmm yea

YES! Too bad you are half a world away. They are probably as hard to find as the MN-47 over here. Like to see a direct comparison between the P-90 and that head.

BFH-3lb dead blow might incourage movement;)

It's all there if you search, but sounds like another victim of a bad oiler tube. Get some light on there and get some pics. Yes you can swap to an internal oiled cam-recommended in my book anyway. Lot's of options but you need to study up on these engines. You should fill out your signature so we aren't guessing of your set-up now.

Early e-88 like this? How common are those heads in Oz?

Those chambers look nothing like my E-88 Pretty !

Any pics of the combustion side of the e-88? Did you alter the advance on your 81zx dizzy to get only 30 degrees advance? What's your measured CR? Sorry for all the questions but it's in the details that we learn:)

I missed the throttle body part --COOL. I'm doing just the opposite with MS running spark only for now. I'd say your leaving HP on the table with only 30 degrees total timing. So the E-88 would be the MN47 over here correct? Keep posting-good stuff

Your signature says Megasquirt with that motor ?

What timing are you running? Wouldn't a set of triples do you better also?

I wouldn't hesistate to fix that with JB weld. You can reconstruct the shape easily and leave a hole. Believe it or not I did the same thing on a SU carb. In a pinch I hung the float with one side of the pin and some saftey wire. It actually lasted a long time and I broke the whole pin tower off.

Everyone is going to want to know what you did the first time to try and remedy this. Now my buddy kind of went thru the same thing with his 75 and it was the dizzy. Basically the plastic guts of the dizzy fell apart which screwed with the timing. After he fixed that it was a different animal

Ran into the flooding issue on my Mikuni's and it was the needle/seat was not tight and caused fuel to go around the threads instead of being metered. Check for tightness--after you fix the float

JB Weld it. It doesn't have to be strong, but the JB Weld will stick and hold up to fuel and you form it, drill it-whatever

You might try the Chicago z club. I pretty far south in Indiana or I would be glad to help out. That is probably a 3 hour drive for me.

Well I figured out how to get some pics loaded. As you can see there is a ton of wires to go thru on this project. MS does a good job of labeling each wire -but you better grab your readers and a magnifying glass when your old like meLOL I elected for 8ft harnesses which seems to get me just enough. MS also offers 12 ft harnesses, so depending where you mount the ECU. Mine is mounted on the trans tunned by the heater panel. The schematic is very legible but if you are new to wiring, you will need to study these. I will never be able to use ALL the wires in both harnesses, but there are a huge amount of flexibility and options with this level of ECU. It's almost ridiculous I am only using this much capability for just ignition right now. This system is capable of 12 injectors, boost, NO2, ect... I actually eliminated probably 20 wires in an effort to have only one harness running thru the firewall. First was developing the power circuit, which many later models have. In 1971 there wasn't any relays on these cars. Get to know relays, they are the handiest electrical item on your car. I actually took the power circuit(refering to getting power to the ecu from the ignition with fuel failsafe) from a 83zxt that I parted out. The car was a showroom piece that had been totaled, but the wiring all looked new. So I stole the two blue relays with holder and spliced them into my MS. The fuse box is a 6 circuit that works well for the MS. The reason you see two of them is that one is for the MS circuit and the other fuse box is just for powering relays for my headlights directly from the alternator. The MS gets it power directly from the battery which helps cut down on NOISE in the electrical system-which is bad. I decided to go with COP(coil on plug) ignition for quicker charging and stronger spark. The coils(D585) are basically truck coils with have their own heat sink and are considered smart coils. The advantage here is that there is less wiring to control these and they are the hot and CHEAP set-up for a hot ignition. I made my own bracket and bought a complete set of coils and wires from craigslist for cheap. I just modified the original harness for it to work on the L6.