madkaw

Tool shed

I follow IMIN on FB but really haven't done anything with the club yet. Did you do the MS install or get someone's else's issues? Hopefully get my car on the road soon and I can cruise out that way if needed.

So why did we start this thread- I'm confused

"Lunch box method" - love it!

I have to disagree with you John. These are CHEAP for such a valuable tool. 50$ will save you tons of work . I bet I had my floor out 10 times fitting everything. You can hold a cleco in the pliers with one hand while you hold the panel up. Try that with screws and a cordless drill. I can have the panel out in seconds.

Those pics look familiar Philip, I would get the heavy duty PHD series. Some of the stubbies for hard to reach areas and i wish I had some of the PSG clamps-those are neat. Depending on how much sheet metal you are tackling at a time would determine how many. If you noticed I used more in the curved areas of the floor panel. Probably need 20 for one floor panel. I used 1/8" diameter for the lighter stuff and 3/16" for heavy stuff. The 3/16" was more then enough strong for holding floors and big panels. You could probably just get away with all 1/8" actually. A pair of hand pliers is all you should need.

Adrian, I would very much like to do this project, but I might need some help .I have a buddy that will make the circuit board for me, but I will need guidance installing it. I would document everything with pics and add to this thread with your permission. I already noticed that my 71 tach looks slightly different, but I might not know what I am looking at

Just for you Charles:) Well remember the part about the wearing your readers, I guess I need a new pair. The MS has tests that you can run in the software to make sure your wiring is correct and mine did NOT pass. In test mode you can actually test fire each coil and watch the spark to see if corresponds to the correct firing order. What I found was that my coil connects were flipped around backwards and I got 3&4 cylinder miss wired. Easy test that saves lots of guessing. The software is pretty used friendly if you have done your homework. Another words, don't expect to know what your trigger settings are if you don't know what you have. Good news is I got it running!!!!

Hey, saw your pics on FB. I'm right down the road from you in Btown. Now I could help you out, but I'm damn expensive - but I'm good Seriously , I'll just trade you my tripled L24 for your L28ET Okay, maybe not. You've got a lot going on there, could be partial line blockage driving up FP. May I suggest MS Anyways, I'm close by if I can help in anyway

What's the vacuum gauge for? Was the engine fully warmed up and was idle right? What's the timing at 3000rpm? Have you tried to swap out ignition modules?

I made that statement , but when I dynoed my L24 I backed off my timing from 37 to 34 and there was no difference in HP. So only time and a few $$ at the dyno will tell.

I've done both and i understand your dilemma. Neither fix will give you the look you want if you are a perfectionist or you are looking for that soft vinyl look, so keep that in mind. The dash cover was more work then I thought to make it look really good. I used a heat gun on certain spots for the cover to follow the original lines of the dash better. Then there is the issues of the gauges that are difficult to remove with the dash cap on. Lastly , the cap doesn't cover everything. The cap falls short along side of the heater panel. I was real happy with my dash repair, except it isn't holding up. I drive my car a lot and I can see cracks reappearing. Maaybe my fix wasn't done right. I'd almost consider paying the 1000$ for a professionallly repaired dash next time, or, I am taking a dash to a CF fabricator to see about having one made completely from CF!!

You mentioned charging issues or voltage low, you need to get that right to expect your ignition to work right. Low voltage and electronic ignition don't mix. I'd be checking your voltage when the rpms bounce around. Clean up all your grounds and connections, then go from there. What type dizzy?

It would be a good valid repair and a very minor repair. You can drill JB as you probably already know. I will probably use JB to install my fuel injector bungs on my intake. You be fixed up in a day too! I would be afraid of ruining that cover with too much heat. Stuff like that is kind of hard to come by.

Just my opinion, but to try out a "brazing set-up" to fix that might not be the best choice- IMHO.

YES! Too bad you are half a world away. They are probably as hard to find as the MN-47 over here. Like to see a direct comparison between the P-90 and that head.

BFH-3lb dead blow might incourage movement;)

It's all there if you search, but sounds like another victim of a bad oiler tube. Get some light on there and get some pics. Yes you can swap to an internal oiled cam-recommended in my book anyway. Lot's of options but you need to study up on these engines. You should fill out your signature so we aren't guessing of your set-up now.

Early e-88 like this? How common are those heads in Oz?

Those chambers look nothing like my E-88 Pretty !

Any pics of the combustion side of the e-88? Did you alter the advance on your 81zx dizzy to get only 30 degrees advance? What's your measured CR? Sorry for all the questions but it's in the details that we learn:)

I missed the throttle body part --COOL. I'm doing just the opposite with MS running spark only for now. I'd say your leaving HP on the table with only 30 degrees total timing. So the E-88 would be the MN47 over here correct? Keep posting-good stuff

Your signature says Megasquirt with that motor ?

What timing are you running? Wouldn't a set of triples do you better also?

I wouldn't hesistate to fix that with JB weld. You can reconstruct the shape easily and leave a hole. Believe it or not I did the same thing on a SU carb. In a pinch I hung the float with one side of the pin and some saftey wire. It actually lasted a long time and I broke the whole pin tower off.