madkaw

If you can sandwich the defect between two straight pieces of wood or metal and clamp it down- then apply heat gun

Relay -ONLY

Motor mounts and tranny mount condition?

Maybe I missed it, but did you replave your tranny mount, or atleast inspect it. Like said, driveline vibrations are not uncommon on these cars. I have fought one for the longest time now, but my car is a hybrid, so lots of mixing parts. I just ordered the mentioned measuring tool to recheck my stuff.

I think thats exactly what it does, and it sounds like a great idea. I do believe the dizzy would have to be in optimum working condition to work smoothly enough for this type of control

Thats awesome news for the Z community, and of course for you. I think will be a really attractive option for the FI guys. Hope they sell well and work well too. I was thinking about the day I get the megasquirt to start my car and how exciting it will be, so I undersatnd your elation!!

Woohoo! An event close enough I can attend. Dam, I better get busy on my car.

If my commute didn't involve Indiana winters I would be all over the BRZ, but...

I'm going to need your timing maps soon for my MS!

Oops, he's not selling. I remember when I needed a windshield I went with safety lite glass or something and it was only 150$- that was a few years ago

I have a buddy in Indy that might have a windshield to sell you

Not cheap , but less involved then Megasquirt. Great option for ignition curve tuning if you don't plan on going FI I've had great luck with my ZX dizzy too

Not cheap , but less involved then Megasquirt. Great option for ignition curve tuning if you don't plan on going FI I've had great luck with my ZX dizzy too

I might have one of those boxes laying around. I think this was from a late 73, but I can check the numbers on the box. Just about give it away, since I will never use it. I know it came off a runner, but it's been sitting around forever. PM me if interested, I can check when i get home.

What exactly did you do to the carbs

That black and green should be behind your radio and is probably not a complete circuit. You will have to complete the circuit so pump will come on with ignition.

I'd say you will be okay. That dizzy won't be the best for performance with only 29 degrees total advance WOT, but it's always a compromise.

I'm with Mitchell on this, they are too lean. I run with a wideband O2 sensor and have tried to run as lean as possible to be around the optimum 14.7, but it's just a reference number for me. I believe these engines run best a little phat as stated. The marshmellow should be that nice tan color. I think you can even hear the difference between too lean and just right, and you can definitely feel it mid throttle. But as stated above, get all parameters -especially the exhaust leak-fixed and right and then start squeezing in some more juice. I believe the .044 gap is okay for the Pertronix, maybe back out a few thousands .042

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/electrical-s30/34192-280zx-distributor-advance-curve-reference.html Look at this thread. i wish the moderator would make this a sticky. When i make the statement 'pulling in too much vacuum advance', I am referencing the amount of actual degrees of advance. It doesn't take much vacuum to pull the lever in your dizzy to actuate full advance. Some dizzys this is 17 degrees or more. Look up your dizzy by the number on the side and determine exactly how much advance you have. Some early dizzys have 24 degrees mechanical, now you advance your initial timing by 5 degrees and throw in the vacuum advance and you are running 50+ degrees total on todays gas.

Certain dizzys pull in too much vacuum advance and so we don't run them. I run a 81 dizzy on a 9.55 CRAtio so I elect to have 20 initial with 37 total with no vacuum advance. You only need one port for the advance. Additional advance at cruise would be helpful, but it would be tough to make work with the ignition curve

Cool idea but it probably won't go far on this site . There are complete builds documented on Hybridz

6000$ -7000$ would be my guess for a long block( race motor:)

Might not ever want a turbo engine if I had that kind of NA power . I could only imagine the sound of that motor

Need to save my pennies!

Timing should be close enough, might try disconnecting the vacuum advance and see what happens. As far as the head, it's not that big of a job to remove the head compared to a complete engine swap and turbo. Might want to make sure you have all your ducks in a row before you go down the swap road or you will be off the road for a long time----meanwhile you could be thrashing the sh!t out of the little L24 and having fun while you sort out the swap details.