madkaw

Cool idea but it probably won't go far on this site . There are complete builds documented on Hybridz

6000$ -7000$ would be my guess for a long block( race motor:)

Might not ever want a turbo engine if I had that kind of NA power . I could only imagine the sound of that motor

Need to save my pennies!

Timing should be close enough, might try disconnecting the vacuum advance and see what happens. As far as the head, it's not that big of a job to remove the head compared to a complete engine swap and turbo. Might want to make sure you have all your ducks in a row before you go down the swap road or you will be off the road for a long time----meanwhile you could be thrashing the sh!t out of the little L24 and having fun while you sort out the swap details.

nice!

This snow is forcing me to finish my MS3 install, I guess it isn't all bad. I never wanted to pull the car off the road long enough to do this, but now I have no choice.

For future reference, it would need to be a pre 1999 diff to have bolt in stub axles. They went to viscous type after that and our halfshafts won't work. I believe all the pre 99's were clutch type. search on the Ratsun sites for further info

Got to becareful what year you get. If I remember correctly only certain years allow you to swap out our halfshafts. If it's a direct swap, then 400$ isn't terrible. I think some 510 guy was running 400hp with that diff. Google around about that diff and you find some application guides for our datsuns.

Next time I get to the dyno I am going to do a comparison or atleast see if my box costs me HP. Probably more bling then anything, but this was my option over the TMW box. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/carburetors-s30/44244-cai-triple-mikunis.html

It's going to be hard to troubleshoot when you can't actually work on the car. I hope your issue is as quick and easy as carbs and wires, but the randomness of the cylinders tells me that it is valve issue. The fact that the valve seats do not hold up on these heads(original bronze) causes blow by and heat which causes carbon build up on the stems and cause sticking eventually. The fact that a valve stuck bad enough to dislodge your lash pad is a sure sign. I know, I fought this myself. When i took it to the machinist he said the seats about fell out of the head on their own. It's going to have to be done eventually, might consider yanking the head now and having it freshened up while your waiting for time to work on the car. I know it sucks because was running so well before, but it's just the way these engines are. The reward will be a fresh top end(bottom end should be fine) and some new life in a l24. What month is your car?

If the valve adjustment was too tight then the valves would not want to close when warned up.

Valves still sticking. If you had one of them stick bad enough to come off of lash pad, there is probably going to be more problems. Maybe try some Marvel Mystery oil in the valve cover and gas to see if that helps

You can see looking at the linkage that both butterflys are opening the same?

To be clear-the copper was part of the gasket.

Insufficent fuel-probably have to go back and recheck everything. Fuel rail been checked for a good return? Recheck carb screen filters.-Fuel sending unit pick-up checked?

I just looked at two of my HGs and there is copper around the hole for the oil feed----yours doesn't have that? Consider a Nismo gasket from Courtesy--$$$$ That's what I have after a blown felpro on my e-88

please clarify ' struggles to move along'. Load and no load is big difference on how it runs. Get a timing light-they are cheap and this eliminates things

Dawgs engine bay looks like mine - a lot ! I put my relays in the same spot. I used a fuse block that is my Mikuni thread - from wiring products.com I think. 80 amp with 6 fuses . I wired the power directly to the alternator .

It's none if our business - but it does help to answer a GENERAL question like yours if we know the intent. We were all guessing the reason for your question when we could have been more direct with an answer. Are you rebuilding, is this a performance question, what engine, etc....

Hello

I just love these threads that you get "the rest of the story " towards the end of the thread. Use whatever will make it run for 2500 miles

Doesn't the 47 have round ports? I thought you weren't worried about performance? 2500 miles for a resto- whoa!

Z hoarder

Come on- where's you sense of adventure. Probably looking at 10.5 to 1 . With right cam(bigger) it might be okay with proper tuning. Make sure you I shroud the chamber as much as possible