madkaw
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Everything posted by madkaw
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Yeah, we went from a bit over .030 to shaving .050- big difference.
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True. But if you go with a performance cam and you actually want to degree it, it will be MUCH easier having the geometry close. Shims are 60$ . P79 has a much bigger combustion chamber so .050 on it is not as much as a e-88 that already has small chambers. In the end- your head should be fine, but some homework will pay dividends
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Get it flat unless you want to change HG's a lot. Take the minimum off and then shim with some .030 shims to get it close. This will pump up your CR, so detonation will have to guarded against. It's doable. Buy te book on "how to modify datsun engines" and read . Should make for a hot L24 with planning.
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I only have 2 per side
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Just sounds like the bolts are loose. Did you check them?
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Most you can go for what? You need to study up on the L motor. What block are you using?
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Anybody the middle part from the rear bumper for sale ?
madkaw replied to bartsscooterservice's topic in Open Discussions
You are going to be "kicking this up for a while". Trying to find a straight face bar with good chrome will be expensive. Not sure what you consider reasonable , but it will be pricey. -
Okay, all kidding aside-well most of it anyway - It sounds like you have a performance head on you hands. ."30 shave is considerable amount and will push your CR up depending on what block you are using. I have the same set-up on my L24. DON'T use a thicker head gasket, but shims for the cam towers will making geometry correct. You might want to do some research and come up with a plan with all of your choices. Sounds like you last option might be best for performance, but have the head checked out by an experienced Z machine shop- Rebello!
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Yep - .030 - it's probably junk, better let me take it off your hands. Those 280 valves are probably to big and the head will breathe too much air. To bad I don't live closer and could help you haul that junk off
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#1 in front thru #6 in the back , easy peazy
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What cylinder number is it? If the rest of the cylinder head is as good as you say, then the problem is obviously isolated to that cylinder. I would definitely consider keeping and fixing it.
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Look like corrosion or detonation? Not too many 31's around that don't have corrosion issues and too far gone for repair. If that's the only issue it might be worth saving. Weld repair to go along with new seats and you have a good little performer. Put the bigger valves(L28) all the way around and a hot cam on a L28 block and zoom- zoom. I wish I had an old head like that just to play with.
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Years ago I used to sell a lot of Z parts(used) on there, but I think their policies have gotten crappy. Not being able to leave negative feedback is bullsh!t. I used to like ebay, but it seemed much simplier and better years ago. Ebay does have a huge audience and you do get a very wide market of consumers.
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I'm guessing no wideband. What do the plugs look like? I noticed with my wideband in the conditions you stated the AFRs are rich - as in the engine is trying to burn off the extra fuel from running hard to a fast stop. Maybe a bit rich and she's loading up. I run Mikunis so they are a different animal
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John has been 'around the block' a few times with these cars. There has been talk of trying other options-but to get a good LSD, without adding weight(comparable to r200), with simplicity of install, it's going to about impossible to come up with a better solution. If you are saying that I am discouraging an effort to have other options, you are wrong. I love innovation!! When I was interested in a LSD diff-this option trumped all-but that's for a LSD, I know you are just looking for a better ratio.
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Don't waste your brain cells - pull out your wallet and pay for quality and a diff that was made in this century. Plus- ratio options, better handling, BOLT IN JC already did the science ing for you
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Thanks for all the hard work:)
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Me too!
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Why would you buy it before you worked out the details. Well I guess its a lesson we have all learned messing with cars. Try starting with this link an read -it's all there. Differential / CV / LSD / HP / Torque / R160 / R180 / R200 / R230 / Diff Mount - Drivetrain - HybridZ
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Nice looking ride! Those tires with those flares don't necessarily warrant all your listed mods. Those offsets and tire sizes should work with stock springs and shocks.
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A few pictures for the new year - floor replacement
madkaw replied to ksechler's topic in Open Discussions
From someone who has gone thru this procedure-nice job! I didn't have a rotisserie -just jack stands and laying on my back. That's why I did most of my fabbing off the car. The ballpeen is a precision tool by the way;) -
Do some research on coolant is the oil and check all possibilities. Don't read about too many cracked blocks, they are pretty tough. What month is the 71? The combustion chamber is better on the early e-88's then the later year/months. Earler head will have smaller chambers and better quench.
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Look again at the HG very closely - maybe you are missing something. It might have been easier to diagnose as a running engine. FYI - if the 71 still has a motor ( head more importantly) , I would strongly consider using it on the L26 block. Especially if it is an earlier e-88 head.
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Boy-o-boy- all these L motors not going above 5krpm- what a boring life they lead- The worst thing I have read about my research is that the HEI is touchy when it comes to voltage and grounds , like Sarah pointed out.
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Very nice work!!!!