madkaw

Look again at the HG very closely - maybe you are missing something. It might have been easier to diagnose as a running engine. FYI - if the 71 still has a motor ( head more importantly) , I would strongly consider using it on the L26 block. Especially if it is an earlier e-88 head.

Boy-o-boy- all these L motors not going above 5krpm- what a boring life they lead- The worst thing I have read about my research is that the HEI is touchy when it comes to voltage and grounds , like Sarah pointed out.

Very nice work!!!!

The "Official" USA Site for 123Ignition Perfect Timing Every Time This might be the best to come along yet!

It seems if you look long enough you will find it here !

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/electrical-s30/37452-pertronix-ignitor-1761-install-coil-evaluation.html

I think you should be around 1.5 ohms MAX on the primary and as low as .7

Measure ohms resistance?

Choking it doesn't help if the float levels aren't high enough. Do an ohm test on the coil?

Coils are cheap to replace and eliminate . Make sure you have the proper impedance coil for the Pertronix . Did you check the mechanical advance on the dizzy to make sure it was operating freely? Sounds like leanness could also be a possibility .

For tuning - there's no contest, wideband .

Yep- you screwed up- it happens:)

Probably work fine. Most triples only need about 3.5psi to run. I guess the worry would be flow- if there's enough. I thought the 73 pump was a supplemental pump for the mechanical.

Don't try to improvise on the cable, find a used one or the right one. You will have a hard time making something else work

Right. You don't need to have the bright link lined up to change your sprocket adjustment. It's dumb luck if the bright link lines up when you do this. Think about it-where's the other bright link? Could be behind or ahead of that link, not necessarily on the crank. More important to be TDC compression stroke on #1. As said above, clean the link that lines up with the mark on the sprocket and use a marker to mark that link, then just spin the sprocket around to the next setting lining up with that mark.

The original brake lines on these old Datsun cars are actually made well as far as materials. I have seen a LOT worse on modern day vehicles. The cladding really helps with corrosion. I have always had best luck with using vise grips loosening brake lines and have hardly ever boogered up one that way. I have found that "popping" them loose with my hand smacking a QUALiTY pair of flat jawwed vise grips is the best solution for stuck lines. Flare wrenches are okay but can still round a flare nut. Yes these are a royal PITA to break loose, but thats one nut don't want coming loose.

Threads should not be sealing anything when it comes to brake lines. I would be more apt to cleaning mating surfaces with SS wire brush if possible. Not sure if I agree with anti- seize on brake lines.

Courtesy Nissan I think.

I'll be out of town till Tuesday and I will PM you then. Don't be afraid to remind me though. I thought I got it through Courtesy Nissan.

I have Newer Nissan sprocket off my motor , less then 10k miles that I'm not using . I went with a Nismo adjustable.

A long massage at the dyno!

Hybridz

Well if you posted this just to make us green with envy-it worked

Something I did with all my plastic lens was sanded them! Yep- wet sanded with ultra fine- start with maybe 800-1000 grit and work your way to 1500. Then buff out with a buffing compound. You would be surprised how well it works for fine scratches, overspray.

Thanks for the correction. And yes all 2+2 versions had the 240mm flywheel