madkaw
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Everything posted by madkaw
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Just keep at it, you will get it. Like I said, understanding the valve timing and ignition is the right to passage with the L motors. Even the old chilton manual should cover the distributor drive shaft position well enough. It has to be right on the 11.25 o'clock position at #1 TDC . The drive tang is offset so there is only one way it fits into the dizzy, but pay attention to this because it does have to be right.
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Exciting stuff here for the Z community!! Don't understand half the poop you are talking about, but it sounds impressive. I should know more since I am in the middle of a MS3x install- With this Hell-Fire set-up and a day at the dyno, Z owners might get a new respect for their car.
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So I'm stuck in a hotel in the blizzard of the midwest----so I had time to reread this thread. I'm still thinking you need to establish the clocking of the oil pump/dizzy shaft. To be off 30+ degrees and knowing that you bought the car from some idiots, I would be checking to see if things line up right. The PO could have pulled the oil pump, change HG, or any other item that caused them to get this wrong. This is more likely then the pulley slipping. It's a lot less work to check too!!!
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Pics sure would help answer stuff!
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http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/open-s30-z-discussions/48799-l-series-engine-timeline.html
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HP numbers are all over the place when you start digging deep into these forums. I think Jeff is getting 180+ on his L28 with SU's. I saw 155 RWHP on my L24 with SU's, but no dyno on the triples. I figure 180 with the Mikuni's. "feel any difference" relative to what? To each other with the same mods? With a light car 20HP will feel different and being able to run full ignition advance with a 79 head might be 20hp difference. There are some good threads at Hybridz that talk about heads and there potential. The P79 is an excellent street/mild race head. Shaving and bigger cam give good results. The 42 is a great all out head but will need quite a bit of work to get there. I don't see mention of a cam in either engine. It's all in the head on these motors!!
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That's a close call. The 54/79 combo is definitely a better NA combo. A more modern combustion chamber = more CR=less detonation=more timing=more power. You could sell the old motor as a complete runner and save your pennies for triples on the 54/79!! As far as turbo charging, neither set-up is that good, so planning a future based on that will be tough. you would need to aquire a p-90 to put on the n-42 for future TCing
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Just post up the numbers on the block and head! I.E. N42, 54, P-79 whatever you see. Looks like a zx damper to me, got one in the garage right now.
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Looking at the pic I'd say you have a late model L28 in your 71! Did I miss something or did you say this was a 71 240z because that is NOT a 71 damper or timing scale
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Had a break thru with the Mikuni's today. I have been tuning on these for a long time and have done well in all areas except the transition zone. It's the zone where the carbs are leaving their pilot jets and moving on to the main jets. This zone showed up as a very lean spot to the point of stumbling and my O2 gauge showed +18 on the scale. What I did was actually close some of the holes that were on the bleed pipe inside the emulsion tube-thus making a stronger "suck" on the main jet from the venturi WITHOUT richening WOT. It was kind of a last ditch experiment that I wanted to try before saying "good enough". Just exciting to find another angle to tuning the triples and getting closer to FI drivability.
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It's hard to figure out what you are asking because of your poor grammar. Pretty much everything is interchangeable on the L motors. The P-90 will bolt on any L28.
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Ummm- L28 HAS forged internals already ( crank & rods). You would be pissing money away for anything else. It's all in the head. P-90 shaved would be great, but you need the flat tops to compliment that. Might consider finding a zx flattop motor and work the head( p-79), or just use the block with your P-90. As far as detonation, using a modern design chamber like the P-90 or 79 should help deter that.
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Those are float bowl vents and should be left open to atmospheric air. I thought you had already gone back to your previous timing before this. As stated earlier, you need to get this issue resolved(timing). If you are going to own a Z , this is right to passage to work on these engines. There are hundreds of threads on this so get searching
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Not sure how you figure .012 by looking at the timing cover fit. If .012 was taken off the block then the cover should have been machined too. Surely the machine shop gave you a stat sheet? Shims can be used , but unless you are over .030 total I wouldn't worry about. You can always run the 2nd notch on the cam gear. I'd measure piston above deck height to see if you need to run a 1.25mm HG
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I would go back over everything you wired with the Pertonix and make sure nothing is loose . Pics of your wiring? It will hard to get past the issue of your timing being Way Off. For me, I would have to have that right first. 35 degrees is saying something is wrong and needs to be addressed. Checked for vacuum leaks?
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Pretty long thread over at Hybridz covering this. All out race motors !!
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Reading your post again it seems to point to when you messed with the carbs. Have you done the drop test on the carb pistons? Are you familiar with SU carbs?
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Start from ground zero. Like said above , check timing by finding TDC compression stroke and assuring the rotor is lined up with #1 cylinder . Put your timing light on each cylinder wire to check for spark. Did you buy the coil and pertronix igniter as a kit? The coil impedance needs to match. So if you bought a coil for a points ignition it won't work for electronic. Ohms resistance should be around 1 ohm for the proper coil.
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Like he said... Process of elimination. I doubt it is induction or exhaust
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You should be able to find .040 over pistons for the L24. My engine is .040. I would not consider l28 pistons, not enough block for that. L28 engines can be found for a reasonable price and it would be cheaper then expensive machining costs. Search- search and search again, it will save you tons of time and money.
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It's nice how the gears will change the personality of your drive. Stepping out the rear is fun too! When you go back under there recheck every bolt. 1/2 turn loose on the diff cover/moustache bar or LCA will cause a clunk. -
Probably on worth a couple hundred - but I'm offering 500$ :)cool father son project GO USAF- my daughter is an USAF officer!!!! Welcome to CZCC and the helpful staff here
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Harbor freight ? Get a 3 finger puller- universal type
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It's probably not going to take much , but DON'T pry on it. Use a puller, it will pop pretty easy, but prying will not get you anywhere. Any puller that you can make work.
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Might want to read the directions first-