madkaw

I have also heard of his technique of using .010 over rings . I believe machinist told me that the one size over would still be concentric enough to do that . It takes quite a large gap before it starts affecting CR . I thought there was two specs . One was the range for the gap and the other spec was replacement range - like .039 or something . I ran large gaps on my last L28 build . All the rings were at the far range , but I ran it . Id say - send it

Straight vinegar . The pump helped by keeping things stirred .

Distilled white vinegar and a parts washer pump

maxima vinegar soup

So was there Nissan sedans in Germany ? Are they in JY’s there ? Is or was there a variant of the Maxima for that era ? That would be the head to get

Do you or did you have the Nissan Maxima over there ? The early 80’s Maxima used a 2.4 L6 . That would be the ideal head for your situation

I’m Another HF jack off. I have two Pittsburg aluminum jacks . I’m like Cliff, I just bought the 1.5 . It’s super light and fits anywhere. I also have the 2.5 which is also great . Even with my lowered car and a front spoiler , I can fit either one between the front tire and my spoiler and reach the center of the crossmember . Jack stands save lives , not the jack

Put your name on the list I guess. I’m not sure how much I will want for these . They will be cleaned , pressure tested , probably a skim cut to make sure all is flat and perfect . I might just have 44mm valves put in them all if they give me a break on quantity! I will be using at least one of them. So far they are all looking pretty good . Looking for the right machine shop to put the correct finish on the mating surface . They didn’t even offer a price with them pulling it ? I took a big gamble , but I might have got lucky .

It cost more to ship . I took a gamble and bought at core prices . First two seem good , haven’t got thru the rest yet

Paid for them Christmas Eve !

Been calling around looking for another Maxima 47 head for a project I’m doing for a customer . I called a a junk yard that showed one available . I asked the guy if he really had one . He said “ I have 6” . I about dropped my phone . I said , “ I’ll take 4 ! “ I also picked up a 4 speed auto from the Maxima . Might as well fill the pallet !

I wonder about my commitment anymore . My latest customer and project is kicking my old feeling arse. I might be hanging up my tools after this . I have aged 10 years in 2020 , and it’s a struggle more than a joy , though I still get some joy for completion of projects . I just want to drive and enjoy

I lived that life driving trains for a living . Spent holidays away from the family . Always glad to have a family to go home too. Merry Christmas

Thanks for any pointers . I could have used them on the last 71 I did . I also make the mistake of getting SS lines which are about impossible to bend . I think I’ll recommend the aftermarket ones . The customer is already upgrading the front brakes so maybe save a few bucks on the rears

Not many replies on this , but @siteunseen says the aftermarket works well? Have a hard time convincing myself to pull the trigger on the OEM units - EVEN when it’s not my money and my car . I have a customer that needs cylinders for his 2/72 . He’s asking my opinion on whether it’s worth it . I love OEM stuff because it usually is much better , but 400$ better for a set - ouch . I should just look away and not worry about it , but thinking that could by him a cam grind and parts . Again , what good is speed if you can’t slow down well enough . Ugh

It’s enough to fix for sure . I thought sharing numbers would be beneficial. to see the outcome of shaving a warped head

Correct on all statements as far as I can tell . It’s a budget build and I am presenting it that way to the kid . It should work out well enough to get him going . Over time there might be some wear issues , but I bet it will fair decently well. I will open up the small chambers to even it up. He has a complete running spare 83 ZX , but it’s so rusty it’s a hazard . It’s engine runs but has busted exhaust studs and whatever other unknowns for a 300$ car . I told him the next engine build can be better .

I have turned into the Datsun tutor for a young lad(17”) Alex that has bought a 81zx project. The motor was half apart and the guy he bought it from was not the wrench on this car , just an owner . Anyways , the block and head were together in the car , but no induction or exhaust - that was all laying in the car . Dirty valve train like the valve cover was off for a long time . It’s been sitting for years . Took the head off to inspect and clean . Mating surface was flat . Cam is a CWC core and seems to be a stock replacement . Engine did turn over fine . He brought me the head and I broke it down to be cleaned and to do anything else necessary for him to have a runner . I sent it to the machine shop and told them to check it out . Valve tips looked molested already like someone already did a valve job. Got it back from the machine shop and they had taken .007 off the mating surface to clean up pitting and did a valve job . I started reassembly to check wipe patterns and I couldn’t get the cam in . I admit that when I took the head apart I did the quick and easy and removed towers and cam all at the same time , so I probably missed the cam was binding . Got out my straight edge out and found the top surface out of flat . This is where I realized I was dealing with a previously warped head . Shame on me and the machinist for not checking for time . In all fairness , who know if this shop ever saw an old Datsun head . What to do now . The kid had.230$ in this head that the cam won’t turn . Took it back and head top surface skimmed . He said he took .017 off the middle and .002 off the sides? Not sure how he come up with that , but it’s flat and the cam turns perfectly . A quick wipe check showed the wipe pattern that will work , actually pretty well centered . I imagine that was because they dressed the tips of the valves . I also questioned the tipping of the valves and they assured me that they didn’t go too far which would compromise the hardness level. So what happens to the combustion chambers ? It’s been shaved , so what’s the CR now ? How far off will they be from each other since the head had been warped ? See my findings . I guess I have some grinding to do

93

Can’t believe anyone could support a leader/boss that doesn’t attend any meeting about the most critical aspect of his job , but tweets orders from the gulf course . It’s freaking mind boggling

Recently sent an A trans to Aussie land to get fixed . The Datsun guy there thought the USA was in a sad place . He didn’t like the lock downs, but thought USA looked uglier without . The world is watching us .

Steve’s right on. You fixed the wrong thing first . Relays would make your headlights 10 times better . I upgraded to Cibie headlight lens , but also relays . Both are a great improvement , but relays are the biggest improvement and save you headlight combo switch and your fuse box too

Very fun. The run 226/226 was 38 degrees timing I believe . Normally I run 36 max .

MN head is a good choice , might be a bit harder to obtain . Try the used car parts websites that search salvage yards . Someone has one laying on a shelf . Bribe someone out west to pull one off of a Maxima . Probably about the best upgrade for an older second gen E-88. No seats to change . Has the bigger exhaust valve . Put the bigger intake valve , do a little port work and vroom . Liners flow just fine . Better casting then the older heads . Isky springs are fine . Don’t need Manley valves , just Nissan intake valves at 15$ each new . Get a new spray bar