madkaw

Why would you pull the fuel tank if you are getting fuel to the carb. So you think that there is only enough fuel coming up to operate 1 carb? That doesn't seem to make sense. What About the fuel rail-have you checked it? Have you visually verified how much fuel is coming from the fuel rail?

I understand your point about the backing plate, but the design of the channel works pretty well . Yes , the weakest link is the screws, but the mirror does give(move) pretty easy if you bump into it, so it absorbs contact well. If I have the inner door panel off, I will remember your point and make a backing plate for it.

I see this is your first post- welcome. Your question is vague and you need to elaborate more for us to help you. So you have a 240z - what engine- original? You can't advance your timing enough for what? You can't make stock specs? What's your timing at now? So the vacuum advance is NOT hooked up now? How does the engine run OTHER then WOT? Idle good? Describe flat spot.

What he said^

If you were dumping fuel into the cylinders before you could have done several things. You have washed down the cylinder walls with fuel and the rings are not doing their job keeping the oil out. There's the possibility of hydraulic damaged from fuel in the cylinder also. I would turn over the motor with the plugs out for a while. I would also make sure to clean plugs well or replace oiled plugs before restarting and do compression test

And the view is spectacular !!

Sure sounds like an exhaust leak.

That is FT. Pounds

If the 83 is together, then why separate . I see no gains in going to an early intake except I like the non webbed look, but you still have an EGR. As far as the exhaust - the 77 is square port right? The 83 is round port. Not sure if that has a bearing. Could you use the O2 sensor hole to run a wideband? That would be one advantage . So you want to run the 77 intake to keep it looking original?

Happy birthday! I guess you better update your age on your profile. Cool car for 16, let us know if we can help out. Find the FSM on line and download - it will be very helpful. Welcome to CZCC

I would spend some time over at Hybridz . Love this site , but there is a thread there titled "show your wheels" or something like that. Usually the posts include sizes.

I actually have a tub of that stuff

It's more then a grease issue- unfortunately

On closer examination of the drivers side, it's really no better. Same scenario where as the nut loosens up enough for movement of the LCA. When I removed the spindle pin I could see the same gouging on the spindle housing. I've cleaned up both sides by filing the ends smooth and it probably took 1mm off the driver's side also. Now it's time to wait on the new bushing set to see how that works. I wish I new enough about the suspension so when I did this initially I would have seen there was a problem. I guess now I can torque things down and known what to look for.

I tightened up the nuts very tight and worked the LCA up and down and watch the nut loosen up as the washer turned. So you are probably right that the LCA was turning the sleeve and wearing on the housing. I'm thinking it is a combination of too thick of flanges on the bushings and the sleeves being a tad short because of that. Measuring the width of the spindle housing I get about 135 mm. Now measuring the LCA at the width of the bushings I get about 133.5, so even after filing down the spindle housing it's still a press fit. I think I might have taken 1mm off by filing. That shouldn't effect how the sleeve works in regards to the urethane bushing. Not sure if that small amount will pinch the LCA mounting points or not. I have ordered a new bushing set and see how that does

So I stopped and pulled the spindle bolt. Looks like I might have truly found the issue. The strut housing where the spindle mounts up is not real flat. You can tell where the sleeve has ridden and worn a spot on the end. I'm thinking this wear has actually moved the sleeve inward and is causing the flange of the urethane bushings to ride hard against the housing. Looking at the pics you can see the high spots on the strut housing end and the gouges on the urethane. I am happy to report that my spindle popped out easy.

Well I swapped the hardware around to eliminate possibilities. Putting the bad washer on the driver's side doesn't make much of a difference -the driver's side still moves easier then the passenger side. More importantly, putting the good washers on the passenger side doesn't help and it is still near Impossible to move up and down once torqued. So this tells me that; 1. my sleeves are just a tad short on the passenger side? The washer should ride on the sleeve-correct? 2. The spindle is not centered, but not sure how that would effect things. If it's off, I can't see it. Talked to my buddy and he says that his LCA's will just flop down after releasing the inboard sides. They move VERY freely. If I back off my nuts 1 turn I am there. Be nice to just drill and cotter pin like a bearing!

The flange is there, but the shadows in the pics hides it. You are seeing a distinct line where the washer rides I believe. The sleeves on the other side look different-like is in made from different material. They look plain steel in color on the driver's side.

Okay folks, I'm pretty sure I have an issue on my passenger side rear LCA -front outboard bushing. When I torque up the nuts on the spindle bolt the LCA about locks up, near impossible to move. I have attached pics of the control arm and hardware. The washer with the groove is the front outboard. This should tell me what is wrong, but I am too dense to figure it out. I look at the bushings and sleeves and they look alright, but honestly not sure what to look for. The driver's side works good and I can rotate LCA after torqueing. The driver's side bushing sleeves look different then the passenger side. Also, I did not try to remove the spindle, but they have been replaced. I tried to get the locking bolt out on the passenger side and couldn't get it to budge. The lock bolt seems to be canted inboard in the hole of the LCA, against the threads of the bolt. I don't want to remove the spindle when I'm not sure it's any issue.

Chas, good point about being centered . Makes me wonder if I actually did the right order when I initially installed the arms after bushing install. So loosening the center nut would allow the spindle to center itself during the torquing and then lock the center in place. Thanks

So I am putting stuff back together and I am curious of my spindle bolts. My right /passenger rear control arm would not pivot at the spindle bolt with the inner bushings removed. I couldn't push down it and make it pivot. The driver's side was stiff but it would rotate at the spindle. I loosened the spindle nuts on the passenger side and everything pivoted fine. It doesn't seem right that I couldn't rotate the arm--????? Could this be part of my squeaking? So now I am trying to make sure I am torquing things the right way when I put it back together. I know it's best to torque things down while the car is sitting on it's tires. I am having a hard time finding torque specs on the spindle nuts.Any help please? The other issue that might have caused squeaking is that I had a way of adjusting rear toe, and what little adjustment I might have had, might have been too much for the urethane bushings.

Sure you got everything back together right when you reinstalled the carbs. Possible air leak would cause lean mixture and idle problems. They were running great and you pulled them off to clean them? Now see, this is more info relating to the issue that is slowly leaking out.

I'm not sure that you can characterize this as an inherit problem with the early Z's . Maybe both cars had the same issue causing this. If the ends are badly damaged or not staying connected securely I would definetly consider installing new ends . Any looseness would cause this hot spot. Could have been fusible links that didn't give out quickly enough and let the wires get hot? Either way, that's pretty hot to allow them 12 gauge wires to melt the plastic

Do you have color on the plugs? How are you sure this is a starvation issue-by sound?? As far as the dampers , you could experiment with different weight oils and amounts to get them the same. Do they both fall freely and clunk? Don't be afraid to richen up the floats a little. Take the lids off and measure and then tweek them enough to know you made a considerable change. This should make a change at top end if you are running out of fuel. Sorry if I came off gruff, you are doing better with your posts.

First of all, are you sure all other aspects of your tune are right. I'm talking ignition, points or whatever, timing, valve adjustment, fuel filters. You will be chasing your tail if you don't have those things right. You might need to start from ground zero on the carbs. What are your plugs telling you. You say its bad on gas, but you are wanting to richen it up? How is the power? "It seems to run out of gas"-statements like this will get you no help on this site. That means nothing with out other info. Try and do better on your posts when asking for help, be specific, logical and scientific