madkaw

I'm glad to see this car to do a direct comparison for mr sale. The way you guys are talking mine will be in the same ballpark

Great thread on engine building-almost forgot about that one!

A crude measurement using drill index shows .078 holes on the cam lobes of internally oiled cam. Interesting the size difference to do the same job.

As close as you dare on piston to head clearance. 1 fast Z on hybrid says optimum is around .022, I think he runs less. But he is a engine builder ! My Nismo gasket is 1.25mm and I thought was crushed size. I did measure a removed HG and it measured .047. No idea on piston shaving minimums

Guy, I think those numbers are a little off. Maybe Rebello would say .045, but I'm thinking it's more like .025-.035. I also believe stock gasket is .047, not .060. A 2mm gasket would give him .028- no piston shaving needed. Just my 2 cents:)

So they took .030 off the block??? WOW. Well I would recommend finding a 2mm headgasket and that should put you in a happy spot for squish. Make sure you take the same amount off the timing cover or you will have problems. I would think a 2mm gasket would be cheaper and better than shaving pistons.

Captain, could you tell me what size the spray holes are in the bar. i'd like to compare the size to the ones in my internally oiled cam. By the way, nice work!

The hammering is referring to the side seal pins, not the crank seal.

Sorry jeff, missed your reply-week-end of the june 16th by the way, it still leaks

Z's and Rock- perfect combo

I have another sponsor interested in helping if you want PM me

It has been a Z lover's dream. I get to drive a completely stock z and then jump into a my modified Z for comparison. When I want a quiet ride, blue is the color for me. Red is for a more fired up mood:cool: The Blue Z will be available shortly for sale!! Get out your check books;)

Red one, blue one, where to go....

Your attention for detail will show up in the end. I have seen cars that put very nice new parts on there, but the lack of attention to detail distracts from the final product. Right tools work well, but an organized -planned mission goes a lot further, and saves money too!! Okay-I peeked at your profile Jeff, project manager, I should have guessed.

Between you and grannynot I get tired just reading the amount of work you guys knock out in a week. You guys must obviously be organized which is a great asset when under taking a project this big. A comment about the sandblaster. I had a big cabinet and it was nice, but without a BIG compressor, it can be aggravating. You need something that puts out big CFM at 90 psi which gets you into the 1500$ plus range. A good rotary tool is priceless- infact I need one myself!!

Keep it or sell it, but I doubt I would weld the holes in the firewall. Find the appropriate plugs to put in there

Looks like a wise decision to get away from that header. The flange looked thin and poorly made. You can't go wrong with the stock manifold and it keeps engine bay noise in check vs. a header.

Jeff, thanks for all the info and the clarification on these side seals. I'm hoping this will cure my issue and this thread will surely help out others. Jeff, you should consider coming down for the Midwest Z show in Nashville Indiana!

I think I get it. I know one end is sharp,and there are two different sides to that sharp end. I guess I didn't even think about the beveled edge being a problem. So the side that has NOT been ground down is considered the sharp edge--so it should go against metal?? Trying to picture it as a chisel.

Sorry Jeff, but I read your post and i can't picture what you are describing.I'm not understanding the beveled edge part. I just shoved the seal and steel strip in the block part way to show and verify orientation-it is correct-- right????

Maybe this thread is too old to get any love, but I will continue on. I took some pics of the two types of side seals. I also hopefully demonstrated the correct way to insert the side seals. I took a lot of time to clean everything out, especially the cavity for the side seals. It is now oil free and dirt free. I squirted brake cleaner up in the hole to get it sqeaky clean so any sealant I put on there will be more effective.

Where are you in Indiana and how much money do you have;)

Well it's time for another attempt at fixing my oil leak. I have been truly cursed with this leak. I have replaced the rear main seal twice, the second time I used a speedi sleeve on the crank incase there was any bad spots. I have replaced the side seals also. I think this is an excellent thread regarding this issue so I will continue my saga here. Got under the car yesterday to find LOT'S of oil everywhere. Big reason was that one of my oil pump bolts was stripped and not holding enough torque to properly seal. I kind of knew that anyway, but blew it off until winter. I pulled the oil pan because I can only assume after reading this thread, and any other thread on this issue, that the side seals are the culpit. The side seals were really tough coming out. I actually made my own puller to pull the main cap, but the cap only came out about a half inch and stopped dead. I didn't want to force the issue with the cap, but it was enough to grab on to the side seals. The side seals were the one piece type and looked symetrical. The reason I say symetrical is because I read about proper orientation of the "lips". These seals had lips on both sides, so I can't see how I could have screwed that up. Also noted was that they were left abit long, I didn't snip them off flush with the cap thinking the gasket and sealer would cover for that. It took visegrips and a small prybar against the visegrips to pull these out. It seems with all my research that folks have had success with both types of seals-imbedded nail type and 2 piece nail type. Some have use sealant, and some not. Some say you have to pull the cap, some don't. Frankly, I am at a loss to what's going to work. I thought the Nissan one piece seal was the answer before, but I don't think it is the seal as much as the application maybe? What exactly is the sealant for? I have also read that some one that didn't want, or couldn't pull the cap injected some sealant into the slots of the cap before installing the seal. In other words, it was important to get sealant at the top of the seal?

No problem. I have not considered 4.11 gears-if anything I might go back to 3.70's. With my BW T-5 trans the first 2 gears are low and wouldn't want any lower. It couldn't be easier to do this swap. The STI diff I have I aquired for 350.00$-quite a steal compared to the Nissan r200 LSD. Now the axles are a bit pricey(500.00), but excellent quality and come from our fellow Zers on these sites. Didn't know if you knew that Todd at Wolfcreek is now selling them. Installing it is the same as installing any r-180.

I'm running 17x 8.5 rotas with +4 offset and 245/45 / 17 tires all the way around. I'd like to run 275's or bigger in the back. My rears rub on the inner fender-not lip- so rolling isn't going to help. I've already ventured from the stock look, so this is just another step.