madkaw

It will be tough to cut those rust free quarters, but it's going to happen. I only see my wheel size getting bigger, not smaller. I am well beyond rolling fenders now, and I don't want to go to coil-overs. I like my suspension and stance and riding on rubber strut tops. I do really like the ZG look and it should compliment my paint job well.

Flares arrived from Japan today-I'm getting nervous before surgery:nervous:

Sounds like you are at a crossroads. I would get that e-31 checked out as far as cc and what valves are in there. The new pistons are flattops? You could try the e-31 first since it's redone and see how you make out. I would see how much CC you can get out the combustion chamber to keep CR at the minimum. Then you can do a direct comparison for all of us between the e-31 and p-90.

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/85907-attn-flat-top-28-with-e31n42-head-guys/ This is a pretty good read. Googling this brought up several discussions. Seems like 9.5- 10 is where you want to be however you get there. My car slightly pings at 38 full advance, but the dyno showed the same power at 34- so I didn't need all that advance anyway. Maybe because the smaller piston / combustion area of the L24?

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/85907-attn-flat-top-28-with-e31n42-head-guys/

So what block and pistons are being used in this combo?

True the earlier head would be better, but in most cases the head needs some work-as in valve guides or seats, so you might as well upgrade to the bigger exhaust valve.

I believe notching was recommended to allow more room for the exhaust to breathe around the valve. I notched my block on both sides.

I would throw a timing light on the plug wire and turn over to see if spark is there or erratic. Whatever direction one goes, spark needs to be eliminated first.

The 2mm gasket will be self defeating. Altering the squish will be just as bad if not worse than running 10 to 1. I would unshroud that e31 to it's limits and smooth out the chambers as much as possible. I guess it depends on what octane you can get where your at, I would think with a decent cam and premium your would be fine. I'm running 9.55 and timing is not an issue. I would think the smaller chambers on the e-31 would also help dter detonation if properly prepared. IMHO

I did most of my own work and I had 1500$ just in paint and supplies . I wouldn't expect much for 3500$ I would think quality body work and materials you will be twice that amount

You know you dont have to start a new thread about the se subject everytime

Looking at those mirrors Jeff, they would have to be mounted far foward on the door - not in the stock location. They tilt rearwards so mounting would have to compensate. That is one reason I went with the Vitaloni, because the stem tilts forward which helps using the stock mounting holes. I didn't want to redrill my door

No. I have only one day driving with them and no negatives yet.

They stick out there dont they! I wonder if that long stem would cause vibration. You did see my thread on Vitaloni mirrors?

I am suprised more owners don't make this a DIY project. You don't need a fancy metal brake-just some wood clamped in a vise works well. Metal can be ordered precut for next to nothing, or visit your local DIY store. Maybe it's just me, but spending 120.00 for a piece of bent metal seems like a lot. You could mess up 3 times making your own and still be ahead cost wise. I do understand that not everybody here is a DIYer though.

Looks like I need to take some more vacation time!!!

Sorry I didn't reply. The air gap is supposed to be there I believe because the warranty would be void for glueing the cover in any spot OTHER than the edges. I can't imagine it would "dent" in any way. I can't imagine what circumstance would possibly cause a dent. The cover lays really close to the original dash, but you can tell there is a slight air gap. The gauge returns are fairly deep, but the issue i see is that some don't sit completely flush against the original dash. I would think with some heat you could get the cover flush enuff to get the gauge out---or maybe not- Now that the dash cover has been on there for a while-I still like it.

Might take the alt to another store and get a second opinion. Also take the battery and get it tested.

Jesh guys- lighten up

The baby turbos made by Vitalino look like a good choice also.

Yes , sheetmetal screws. The kit came with plastic inserts for the screws, but then you would have to enlarge the original holes. If you look at the bracket, it is made to accommodate various spacing. No wind noise driving today - windows up.

Sorry about the first post being a teaser, just got ahead of myself. Anyhow, here's a bunch of pics-what do you think? I like them, though a little more 'in your face" attitude, but that's what makes them useful. I liked my California mirrors, but useless. The longer stems put the mirror much closer to eye level. On the driver's side this is really prevelant and gives you a fantastic view. The mirror stems also push the mirror firther forward on the car which also helps with view As far as quality, I really like the way their made. The base is solid, and the twin arms(stems) are on ball sockets that allow for a lot of movement. There's no tightening the mirror adjustment, the ball sockets adjust and stay put-they are very tight. The mirror also adjusts, so there is a wide range of adjustments. Price; 90$ on ebay, a guy had 4 sets. Based on what I have used before, they are a steal. Time will tell, but they seem to be made well.

My ZG flares are on the way from Japan and my Vitalino Turbo mirrors are here waiting to be mounted. Excited about no rubbing tires- not excited about putting the Z under the knife.

Last years Midwest Z show was great-but too damn hot. Hopefully weather will be better. It was a pleasure meeting all you z guys there.