madkaw
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Everything posted by madkaw
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Question re: Setting Timing on L24 ('72 240Z)
madkaw replied to Jughead's topic in Engine & Drivetrain
If your talking to me , you maybe be off a drive tooth from the oil pump gear . Have you removed the oil pump at all? Has it always been this far off. Is the tang at 11:25 o’clock at TDC ? Have you had the engine apart or oil pump out ? Is the rotor pointing at #1 spark plug at TDC - possibly the wires are one hole off -
Well I like the way they ride . I’m running about a 1/4 turn out for all these wonderful roads around here . The ride is decent and can be made softer than my non- adjustable KYB’s - but just a smidge . I take a long drive tomorrow so I will really give them some miles . Nice curvy Indiana roads . I’m taking my friend gearhead with me for the ride . Actually I’ll have two passengers l but cranky arse has to stay in the back .
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I think low 4 is possible if I can hook up or burn up my clutch - lol. I need to do a quarter mile , the GPS can time that too!
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What’s your max ignition timing 100kpa
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Question re: Setting Timing on L24 ('72 240Z)
madkaw replied to Jughead's topic in Engine & Drivetrain
Sounds like it’s off a tooth -
Well I can’t keep up with what I post anymore . The 3.2 is now running with the MN47 head again . Since the last post I had put miles on the p90 while I was fixing a 71 for a customer . Meanwhile the MN head got new Manely valves and bronze guides . I swapped it back I’m with the proper head gasket thickness and should be back to 10.5:1 . Cylinder pressure is around 220 with compression tester . Pistons were pretty much broke in , so just a tune and start flogging . I managed a quick 0-60 time of 4.77 seconds . This is a beast motor . It’s amazing how hard it pulls even in 4h gear . Dyno appointment is in November - everyone is booked up until then . 8B4867CC-29D6-428F-A1D7-5F72482973E3.MP4
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Sounds like a winner . I think I saw it in the video. Cross flow head ?
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What won the people’s choice ?
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Well darn , too far for me . I blew my chance when it was close .
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I had concerns of this when I was thinking of going . I guess if I had made it I would have been one of the few in the pics that had a mask on . I guess it wasn’t cool ? I figured with older cars you would have older people , so more masks ?
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Joesph, I will PM you about who I spoke to. Yes my measurement was 6mm. Looking at the pic you provided is not representative of a properly torqued nut . If it is the same as what I was provided them the diagram is showing a nut with 1 thread engaged. My nut Has only 4.5 threads . To get to 4mm after torquing , there would only be about 2 threads at most showing .
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I mean - KYB thought it thru . They have a small standoff at the bottom. You give up a bit of shock length , but they fit . I have a pair of old red Koni’s that came out of a 70, I’ll pair them up and see how they compare . Those shocks the gland nut and shock were one piece insert . Im going to cut down the gland nut a bit more because I don’t see MSA or Koni doing anything more . I’m hoping if I do anything I will give someone else heads up of the possible headache
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I guess I don’t understand your logic . Variance in parts is why you provide a cushion . Also, these shocks were designed to drop in a tube so they need to fit the tube- regardless if it was designed for oil 50 years ago . These shocks were designed or engineered in the last year - at most ? Yes it’s a 9/71 .
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The KONI nut is a thick walled nut . Even after increasing the ID , it still has close to 1/8” wall thickness . It just needed to be cut deeper and it would have been fine . Better yet - the KONIs should have been made -like most shocks for this car- with a smaller ID at the bottom to keep off the weld bead at the bottom
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So disappointed that the modified gland nuts do not get the job done . Even modified I only have 1-1/2 turns on the gland nut . Still showing 6mm of nut . They only machined off 2mm when they should have done 4. Called MSA - and it’s basically my problem . It’s my fault that the strut tube has a factory weld bead at the bottom . I could somehow grind the weld down at the bottom of the tube - yeah . So these modified glands are not a guarantee that these will fit your early Z . My car being a 9/71 isn’t that early - but early enough I guess . Now I get to pay a machinist to modify the modified gland nuts that are supposed to fit my year car - woohoo. Not much sympathy from MSA , they just sell the shocks .
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The steel bushing orientation was not discussed earlier in this thread , that’s why I posted the question . AK260 showed what he did for orientation , which seemed to make sense , but now you show the bushing flipped the other way . It would seem to me that AK260 has it correct to extend travel of the bump stop . It would be nice to get some clarity from KONI .
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KYB’s . It looks like a hefty weld bead on the bottom of the strut assembly . The KONI is wider at the bottom of the cartridge, and I believe the cartridge is hitting the weld bead . KYB’s also have that small pedestal on the bottom of its . The cartridge should have been shorter . The last red Koni’s I took out of my 70 had the gland nut integral with the cartridge .
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MSA is sending me different gland nuts - probably as in the previous post - chamfered so they will fit .
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Looks like I’m in the same boat with the fronts too tall for the gland nuts - 9/71 Almost didn’t get one out too! Well I didn’t have much hope for Zcon - but all hope is gone . Not enough time in the day
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That’s what I thought -but wanted to make sure
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Steel bushing guys - on top of strut piston ! Is that on correctly ? What is it’s purpose? My KYB’s do not have this . Anyone ?
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I was referring to the steel bushing . My KYB’s didn’t have this . I don’t see it in the instructions
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Freaking IKEA instructions - give me a break . what about the spacer ? I can’t find it in the instructions .
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I would have been besides myself -pissed if I had to do that with a brand new set up (lock nut) . I will take your advise seriously . I wonder if my old KYB nylon lock nuts will work? I hope you do give them some feedback . That shouldn’t have been overlooked . Makes me wonder if they actually have a test vehicle to mock this stuff up on . I’d be happy with a T handle that fit the slot . Since there is two full turns of adjustment , having marks on a dial is kind of worthless. Kind of like a carb mixture screw - can’t remember how many turns out , so you dial it in while counting and dial it back out .
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You say it wouldn’t get deep enough ? To fit under the strut tower cap ?
