madkaw
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Everything posted by madkaw
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Skim cut like JC said and it shouldn't effect your shim job. You want the right surface for the HG to seal. That e31 wlll have some pop to it- what block?
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I will try and add pics- but this is not plug and play at all. Everyones dash will be different, but the cover seems sprung laying on the dash. Sprung enough that I wouldn't trust the silicon to hold it in place. The worst area has been in the hazard switch and blank plug area. The cover seems to sit to high off of the dash. I have resorted to a heat gun and reforming the cover. I am shooting for the cover to lay on flush everywhere on the dash. So far not too bad of results, but be careful with the heat gun- it will do some damage quickly The dash is in the car
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Working on the fit right now. Things I would recommend removing before install hazard switch Ignition lock assembly-unless you want to scratch the cover-very close Steering wheel-why work around it when it is so easy to remove I will report back as I go It is a Dash Top Brand that MSA sells. Grain looks good and color
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Strictly by looks i WOULDN'T run that head-if i couldn't get the mating surface to look better than that. Have you checked it for flatness? Why the reluctance to have it skimmed-looks like you have done the expensive part by taking it apart.
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sooo, you don't have a synchronizer of any kind? "one carb FEELS like it is pulling more air", that's a tuff way to tune carbs.
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Not trying to be a ****, but what do you think we can determine from this pic-really. I can't even tell if the valves are still in there. Looks like you took them out. Like said above, the mating surface doesn't look clean, it should be bare aluminum-that's it. The stuff you can't see is what to worry about.
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I found these instructions googling https://www.dashcaps.com/dashinstall.pdf I guess they warn against using silicon in the "center" sections- I am thinking they only want the edges glued to the center will be able to expand? But they also don't want silicon on the edges-or atleast 1" from the edge
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Well I recieved my dash cover and can't believe the instructions(lack there of) that came with the cover. Nothing as far as application hints, where to place glue, trimming, NOTHING! Just a tube of silicon and a generic one page instruction that covers all models I guess. You might say that there is nothing to it, but you would think that the manufactuer would know from R&D what works best as far as application. I know MSA wouldn't give you any additional instructions-they probably haven't tried the product themselves. So again any tips that did or did not work for you I would appreciate to hear
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Check and recheck firing order. Check and recheck timing. Check and recheck all electrical connections as mentioned above. Fill out your signature so we don't have to guess what year and model
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Looks close to the Borla TMW CAI-might be a custom made job. Have looked on the RHD Japan site?
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I was reading your thread and a member said that is why he DIDN'T glue his down. So I was hoping he would chime in here or someone else about other possibilities like double sided tape. Good info to know about the gauges
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NGK When the engine fires with the starter fluid does it run smoothly for a second or sputters.
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You did get the chokes set up correctly. These carbs can be finicky in cold weather. Make sure the nozzles are dropping when engaging the choke.
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So isn't this the same symptoms you had before ?
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Okay, so I just read that there might be an alternative to glueing the cover in place-anyone would like to share procedures and results?
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Can you elaborate on this please?
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I have two sets for sale in the classifieds, PM me if interested. Better yet, e-mail me, I have been having issues with the classifieds section
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If I was closer I would love to have that L24, or just the head! Looks like another great project
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240z rebuild / restoration right down to the shell
madkaw replied to grannyknot's topic in Build Threads
You have a challenge if you are looking for one- The floors are a big job and you will have to work them new floors to get them to fit. PM me if you want any helpful hints - if you need any. I have lots of pics of what I went thru -
Not sure if I would sell a Z at Barrett auction. I don't think the setting is food for imports. Somebody got a good deal- then again- the deals are pretty good for most cars right now. Hope I get more than that for the 71 when it goes to market !
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I believe it's been done by simply baffling off the area leading into to filters with sheetmetal.
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Shallow socket+ 18" of extensions at a slight angle. It's a small window of operation that will fit the socket and sometimes the socket will get jammed and will pull off the extension. Rotate the halfshaft around to find the sweet spot. Hold the halfshaft in place with a prybar.
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Looks like a good project. I'm always amazed how these engines seem to survive. Keep us updated.
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Todd at Wolfcreek liked it because my CIA would do something that the TMW CAI won't- and that's pass the SCCA single-inlet restrictor test!!!!!
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I appreciate the compliments and if I make it to Zcon- hope you are judging;) As far as airflow, I think we might be splitting hairs. There is an abundance of volume in that CAI and I have seen no signs of lack of air. Whenever I get around to dynoing this set up, I plan on removing the CAI on one of the runs to see if I am restricting airflow in anyway. As far as induction noise, I believe this set up actually quiets the intake noise. My exhaust is pretty loud to begin with. The only way to know would be to do a direct comparison to another triple set-up with just air filters.