madkaw

Not sure how I wanted to comment on this issue, so I have procrastinated . After putting 300 miles on my car this last weekend I have decided that the L6 has to been in the car to remain a Z. I have had a lot of nice cars, but the Z motor is the best sounding engine by far of all of them and makes the Z car what it is. As far as body mods, as long as the original lines are not altered -maybe just extenuated ( i.e. Spoiler, airdam) . The classic lines are to nice to alter.

Make sure your needles are not bent by rolling them on a glass table. I always ran the needles flush with the bottom of the groove, but either way you can adjust out with mixture screws. Just set them flush and do the drop test to test for binding!

Now according to the ' I Spy' rule book, page 3, that would be considered cheating since a spy can not be preplanned. Sorry Jeff.

Have you checked the flux capacitor yet?

Overheating + not charging= loose belt I am also very confused here, you have 2 260's and one that doesn't have a clutch on the fan? You might want to be clearer to get good help

Jeff, I know you are very excited , but you will not be given any points since you forgot to put the location in the subject line. Not to worry, maybe you will see another one in a couple if months , or years or...

I wouldn't be suprised if even your cheapo Chilton manual wouldn't have a test for the TPS. It should just be an OHM test. Blue is giving you a good start.

Could you PLEASE use some puncuation so we can breathe between sentences. Not trying to be the english teacher you hated, but using text style posting doesn't go well here. Most folks won't have the patience to try and help you because they gave up reading your posts. Doubt it's vacuum or mechanical in nature. I'd say electrical gremlins or you still have fuel issues.

You could run +35 offset then run 35mm wheel spacers.

Yea, what he said

It might mean that the amp is internally grounding and causing a drain. In my case the amp was junk and I took it out. I was running a sub/amp and for some reason it was grounding. You could have a bare wire somewhere, but I think that would blow the fuse. If the power is turned off on the amp and you hook it up and it cause a spark, then somethings wrong.

DING DING DING we have a winner. After market stereo wouldnt have a sub or separate power amp? If so - disconnect and try the battery test for spark. I have personally had an amp shorting to ground and still worked, but played havoc with all my electrical stuff

Does the battery leads spark when connecting them? If so, methodically pull fuses one at a time until connecting the battery does not create a spark. Then you have narrowed the system down of the drain.

Simple test is rotate front to rear and eliminate tires and wheels

Noises carry on these cars badly. Did you make sure the gland nut screwed down hard against the strut? Sometimes the supplied nuts are quite right and the threads bottom out before securing the strut . I had to use a washer on top of the strut to shim the gland nut. Get your wrenches out and check torque on everything under your car Good luck

Looks like I might have to revise the rules of the game and BAN all posters from CA. I see an unfair advantage for you west coasters. Spotting Z's for you guys is like the Midwesters playing I spy a cornstalk

My money is on the starter shorting

My intention for starting this was to give someone on these forums a way to connect up or satisfy their curosity of 'who owns that Z'. You could point out every Z you see, but do you really have an interest in every Z(350,370,280zx,...). Let's face it, I barely notice a 350z, but if I see a first series close to my town, I NOTICE.

Well Arne is ahead on points.

I'm thinking this game is tougher than I thought

Well I am still playing with jetting, which is fun until you start messing with the accelerator pump settings on the rod-PITA I have had best results by jacking up the car and working from underneath-still a PITA I have found the ultimate tool when messing with these carbs, the FORCEPS. Go get some cheap ones from Harbor freight and never drop anything again. I did do something different today, i ran without my cold air box. I have started from day one with it, so I have never experienced the Mikuni's non-muffled! The cold air box does quiet down the induction noise considerably, and I found that out today. I can see the lure of these triples with just filters, very nice sound!!

Outstanding progress in a short period of time. Your friends advice is good, I would just sand or scotch brite the engine bay and get it really clean and on to primer. How do you like the mighty L24 ? The e-12 dizzy works well with that engine- give it plenty of advance and disconnect the vacuum advance!!! Nice work

Search custom battery cables on the forum- good alternative for battery cables that fit right and never have a problem with

Brakes and suspension #1 I can only speak for Arizona Z Wildwood brakes-excellent quality and no regrets. Remember, fancy suspension upgrades including coil overs will cause additional road noise-sometimes a lot. Nice pair of shocks and springs, urethane bushings everywhere will make for a great handling/safe car for part time track use. In my opinion doing the brakes and suspension right the first time and doing them first is a good way to go because it's a lot of work and you don't won't to do it twice. Engine mods are a bit quicker and easier and less down time, so do them later. Doing the suspension and brakes right will hold up to any power level you want to progress too. Many guys go right for the power and can't stop the car with what they have-not good. Good luck and welcome. Tell us more about your car

Hey Nate, that's the way to play the game! I'm planning on doing coffee and cars on the 25th at Meridian and 465-maybe we can make a good showing for the Z cars! Putting the location in the subject line makes this fast and easy, especially since it is in bold. Hopefully this will help us make connections and get the "lurkers" to come out