madkaw

Cmon guys- follow the rules- the name of the town in the subject line

Now to make this game easier you should "go advanced" on your response and put the town in the subject line. This way folks can scan easily thru the thread to find someone in their town.

I spyed a white Z , maybe a 280z with a hood scoop coming out of walmart on August 10. Might have been a 2+2

Remember the game I spy? Well I thought I would start a Z version! This game might work or might not, but there should be some winners! Anyway, how many times have you seen a Z close to where you live or somewhere you frequent? I know I have and wondered what their story is or if they are members here. So if we had a thread going that stated when and where you saw the Z and some kind of description, maybe there can be some awareness of fellow Z'ers in your area. I'll go first

Well if anyone has seen or heard from Les, let me know. He recieved my ZG flares over a week ago( fed-ex signed delivery) so I could get a refund and move on with this issue -never have heard a word. I sent a e-mail to inquire-no response. Sent PM-no response

I'm Always learning something on these sites:) I will note that the early Z's with the balance tube put the PCV in an angle to put the weight of the "ball" towards the closed position-in essance a spring

I'm with Leon, there's no vacuum so the PCV is staying closed. Of all the PCV's I have seen, I have never seen one where it is partially open-but not saying there aren't ones that do operate that way. Most of the ones I have taken off of our cars there was no spring at all, just a free moving ball! To the OP, why are you ready for a new motor, your not sure what the issue is. Go down to Autozone and borrow there coolant pressure tester and see if you have pressure building in your engine, then go from there.

Carl, what you consider presentable? It looks like I will be helping Jim sell this car. I will be bringing it back to my house to detail out and finish out as much as possible. As far as the engine compartment, the paint on the block is pretty bad, but not sure if it is worth it $$ to pull the motor to paint everything up. Not sure what the perspective of a buyer would be when seeing a painted engine that has NOT been rebuilt. Not much money involved in painting the engine, just a lot of labor.I guess my point here is, I don't want to present the engine in a way that people think I am putting lipstick on a pig. I guess it will all depend on the buyers intention, like you said Carl-in the blank canvas the buyer might not care about the engine appearance. The owner said there might be a possible throw-out bearing noise, so I might want to pull the motor anyway to fix this issue-then painting the engine will be easy .

Well it didn't take too much to get the main fuel jet in check. I was suprised about how much change I saw dropping from 160 to 150 on the main. I went from running high 11's to 14's with the 150 jets. So I popped in some 155's I had and that seem to do the trick. Much closer to low 13's and high 12's. Now I anxiously await my new pilots. Maybe I'll make a video today, the car is running awesome!!

Jon, when I'm talking transition, I'm talking a slow transition, nothing to do with the accelerator pump. I can watch the AFR's jump around the 16 range when I get around the magic rpm of 3000 - while slowly increasing speed. It's not just the gauge, you can hear and feel the engine surging from lack of fuel. I will use the spark plugs with the O2 to let me know whats going on as far as mixture.

Yes , the fuel rail return side is a metered orifice, I would replace it. Time to take a look at the floats , I would think the needle and seat would hold 4psi. It might be a combination of the two items.

This is where I'm at on the Mikunis . Too small on the pilots make for a weak transition . If you richen up a small pilot to make transition better, you wind up with a rich idle. Pilots are on order

Well he obviously was clueless for even using a wrench putting it on- good luck getting it off!!

Leads all tight on the dizzy? Coil is matched impedance with the points? Positive it's not fuel related?

I put a hole behind the heater panel the size of the large plugs that are used for the AC holes. It is a pain that there is no small end or disconnects for the sensor. I would check before cutting any of the wires. It's always something isn't it? It's also a pain that the wires have to be twisted to put the sensor in. Don't forget to calibrate

Well I finally got a new O2 sensor installed!!!!!!!!! Now I know what happening with my AFR's at WOT-too rich! I'm dipping below 12 , maybe to 11.5 -so it's time to back off on the main jets. Transition is still lean and I will be ordering bigger pilots.The AFRS bounce around 16+ in the dead spot. So if you blow a headgasket, you will be replacing your sensor. I guess the coolant destroys the sensor.

Damn, your timing must have been way off. Glad you figured it out

Thanks for the ideas guys. The PCV has been checked. I might just have to live wuth a leaky engine. I cannot see myself tearing into the engine for the rear main seal again. I've replaced everything including side seals and oil pan gasket. The constant 70psi seems weird!

Guys I need help here figuring this out. I have been fighting an oil leak in the rear main seal area which I have posted here. I have done everything including a speed-sleeve on the crank where the rear seal rides. I have always thought my oil pressure was too high on this engine, but discounted it because of the stock gauge. Today I installed a new oil pump(standard pressure and volume) and installed a mechanical gauge inside the car. No change. The oil pressure reaches 70psi before I get to 3000rpm. At cruise it will stay right at 70psi-cold or warm it doesn't matter. If I understand the pressure relief valve and how it works, 70 is the magic number as far as max pressure before the valve bypasses. When I look at the FSM, it shows what looks like two relief valves, one in the pump and one by the filter-is that correct? I am at the point that I think I have a partial blockage somewhere in the system that is driving the pressure up-but where? And how will I find it? I have tried to blow pressurized air thru the oil galleries between the filter and pump and they seem clear. I really want to figure this out before the car leaves the garage again. Shoot me some ideas guys-please!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Go to autozone and borrow their coolant pressure tester. Basically it just fits where your radiator cap is and follow the instructions. You run the car and watch for build up pressure beyond the cap rating. If it builds then starting pulling spark plug wires one at a time(while running) to see if it stabilizes the pressure. If pressure builds then you have a blown gasket, and pulling a plud will verify which cylinder and that the gasket is blown.

What did the spark plugs look like? Did they look any different then the last time you checked them-maybe one plug is a different color?

I guess I don't understand the advantage of this set up. Most guys seem to go for coil overs to take advantage of a smaller spring for bigger tires. Plus only 1 inch gain on lowering - couldn't you just get 1 inch lowering springs. Isn't it the shock that makes the big difference in handling?

Actually it's the Emblems that determine everything!

...and what he said

What type carbs? Why did the throttle stick? What color was the plume of smoke? Carbs been rebuilt? Daily driver? Smell like fuel? Sounds like it's running out of gas? History on the car? Answer all the above questions and then continue posting;)