madkaw

Damn, your timing must have been way off. Glad you figured it out

Thanks for the ideas guys. The PCV has been checked. I might just have to live wuth a leaky engine. I cannot see myself tearing into the engine for the rear main seal again. I've replaced everything including side seals and oil pan gasket. The constant 70psi seems weird!

Guys I need help here figuring this out. I have been fighting an oil leak in the rear main seal area which I have posted here. I have done everything including a speed-sleeve on the crank where the rear seal rides. I have always thought my oil pressure was too high on this engine, but discounted it because of the stock gauge. Today I installed a new oil pump(standard pressure and volume) and installed a mechanical gauge inside the car. No change. The oil pressure reaches 70psi before I get to 3000rpm. At cruise it will stay right at 70psi-cold or warm it doesn't matter. If I understand the pressure relief valve and how it works, 70 is the magic number as far as max pressure before the valve bypasses. When I look at the FSM, it shows what looks like two relief valves, one in the pump and one by the filter-is that correct? I am at the point that I think I have a partial blockage somewhere in the system that is driving the pressure up-but where? And how will I find it? I have tried to blow pressurized air thru the oil galleries between the filter and pump and they seem clear. I really want to figure this out before the car leaves the garage again. Shoot me some ideas guys-please!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Go to autozone and borrow their coolant pressure tester. Basically it just fits where your radiator cap is and follow the instructions. You run the car and watch for build up pressure beyond the cap rating. If it builds then starting pulling spark plug wires one at a time(while running) to see if it stabilizes the pressure. If pressure builds then you have a blown gasket, and pulling a plud will verify which cylinder and that the gasket is blown.

What did the spark plugs look like? Did they look any different then the last time you checked them-maybe one plug is a different color?

I guess I don't understand the advantage of this set up. Most guys seem to go for coil overs to take advantage of a smaller spring for bigger tires. Plus only 1 inch gain on lowering - couldn't you just get 1 inch lowering springs. Isn't it the shock that makes the big difference in handling?

Actually it's the Emblems that determine everything!

...and what he said

What type carbs? Why did the throttle stick? What color was the plume of smoke? Carbs been rebuilt? Daily driver? Smell like fuel? Sounds like it's running out of gas? History on the car? Answer all the above questions and then continue posting;)

I realize it is a blank canvas 'as pictured', but for the sale it will be 99% complete. The pics are fresh out of paint with nothing much put back on. I would consider the paint and body excellent, quality paint products(dupont base coat/clear coat), but the paint didn't make it into the engine compartment. If there would be a negative to this car it would be the looks of the engine compartment. The block seriously needs some paint and for some folks it might be a let down after seeing such a pretty exterior. I would recommend painting the engine if it would make that much of difference in value, but again it would be fresh paint on a non-rebuilt motor. Also, I believe the mileage is not 65K, but 85K. The speedo needo blocked the owners view when he looked for me.

This is just some of the pics I have. I have a lot of before and after so someone will know what they are getting. It is probably one of the most solid cars in this part of the country-which would save a midwest buyer shipping!

Glad I could help-I like the troubleshooting game!!

Is everything hooked up to your starter-I mean all the wires? Sounds like you don't have any voltage coming from your battery.

Well hopefully I will have your back to back results soon. I ran 155 RWHP with my SU's and now have installed the triples with no changes to the engine. My goal has been to be systematic about upgrades because I want to be sure I am moving foward and not being decieved by the butt dyno. It will atleast a month, but I will be back at the dyno when I think I have my jetting really close.

It might be helpful to know more info as far as what engine and what pilot sizes and jets you have in the carbs now. Do you own a unisync to try and sync the carbs? Just one carb out of adjustment will send the idle up. So the engine idles up like this without you touching the throttle at all? maybe one of the starters is letting in air?

I am trying to help out a client of mine that I did some partial restoration for. He is selling his 8/71 240z because he doesn't have time to finish or enjoy his car. This is a California/Texas 98% rust free car. When he brought it to me it had been sitting for 18 years unregistered. He would turn the motor over periodically, but it was just sitting in storage and at his home under a car port for a long time. When he brought to me it needed help, but was still very nice rust free car. It had a lot of dings from being at a home with 8 kids and being a 40 year old car. He wanted me to get it running and looking nice so he could enjoy it. I put a lot of time and money into this car, and here's a list to give you an idea; Removed all of the suspension and replaced all rubber with urethane. All the suspension components were sandblasted and powder coated Matte black. New KYB shocks, ball joints and spindle bolts. Gas tank was removed and por-15 inside and out. Fuel lines flushed. Engine was tuned and SU's rebuilt. New Intake/exhaust gasket installed while repairing broken exhasut stud. Pertronix installed to remove points, new wires, plugs, coil, airfilter, fuel filter. The engine bay is very original with no mods. The only rust repair was on the dog legs, they were removed and replaced with new panels. They weren't too bad and the rockers were solid. The rear valence was damaged and it was also replaced. There was no rust, just too many dents to fix. Undercoating was applied to all wheel wells. The underside was so clean I was able to just scrub it down with soap and water. I don't remember any damage to the underside frame rails and the tension rod boxes. The car went on to a body shop that completely stripped the original paint and painted it the factory blue.He had purchased some nice bumpers(original) , but I haven't seen them. The interior was intact and only had wear from age. I believe the door panels were in very nice shape and no damage anywhere with one crack on the dash. This car was equipped with A/C and had the control rheostat on the console and the evaporator under the dash. The original carpet was shot, but all the vinyl was in great shape. I believe it had the original radio. In the glove box I discovered the original sales card from the dealer and the original Datsun service credit-card. It also had the instructions for the ARA A/C unit, plus some other neat stuff showing the car spent iit's life in CA and TX. Tires were used but very servicable mounted on PS aluminum mags-period correct. I know pictures would make this post more useful and they will be coming. I am waiting for more pics from the owner. Another plus for this car is that it is located in southern Indiana. It is very hard to find a car this solid in this part of the country, which I think would be an asset as far as selling. Lastly, on a personal note, Jim is a great guy. He is selling this car to raise money for a school he is starting for special- needs kids. Based on what I have posted here(pictures coming), where in the price range should this car be with only 65k miles and all this work . I really want to help him get the most for this car.

What diZzy are you running with how much mechanical advance?

You might go a little richer at 3500 if that is a WOT reading. If you can get down to the low 13's , that would be best. My n27 needles seem to work well with my engine an ou engines are similar . Your no going to hurt anything with the AFR's you have now at idle. As long as the engine feels torquey and you don't stay in those AFR's. You might try running the needles flush with the channel on the bottom of the pistons , that's th way I ran mine with the shoulder of the needle NOT visible

That's why the SM needles are too rich for most stock motors. They are quite a bit shorter and richer at the top end. Glad you figured it out

That FSM is handy for those kind of questions. Bet your ready to get it running!!!

That's pretty weird. It seems you have covered the basics and more! It seems if you had excessive fuel pressure you would be dumping fuel . No holes in your floats is there?

Okay guys, revisiting an old but still lingering issue. I still have a rear main seal issue, but not as bad. I will cut to the chase, I removed my oil pump to examine the passages and to check everything out. Am I missing something here, there was no ball under the spring. There was a piston type deal under the spring, but no ball anywhere. I have been trying to find a breakdown illustration, but everything I found shows a ball and spring. This is a high volume pump from MSA. I'd appreciate some insight here.

Steve, you haven't tried the shut-off switch yet for the fuel smell? I think just breaking in a motor and and getting bugs worked out in your new engine is a great place for SUs. Though the Mikuni's and or Webers can be made to run better than the SU's, the SU's being more simplistic are a better way to get started. It's important to break in a motor properly and I wouldn't want to be dialing in triples on the fly with a new motor. Now Todd at Wolfcreek could get you close with a rebuilt set and you might get lucky to dial it in fast, but the SU's are almost full proof and cheaper to rebuild and maintain. Oncce you get the motor where you want, someone will gladly buy your SU's so you can upgrade.

What dizzy are you running?

Have you done a leak down test on the motor? You might be losing compression because of the head and nothing else. Time and money would be better spent on a head swap if the bottom is okay. These bottom ends are about bullet proof, so I would suspect it is all head problem. If the motor is shot you might as well do the complete turbo swap and not break the motor apart and source out stock electrical to get you going. Then again you will spend more money than you think doing that. I think the turbo engine without the turbo will be a dud