madkaw

I will add that I have no issues whatsoever with my cables. I have disconnected the terminals from the battery a dozen times and the ends still snug easily will little torque.

Just curious if anyones going!!

Let me restate that when I originally looked at the gland nut-when I first started taking it apart-I noticed how far it down in the strut tube. After removing the shock I screwed the gland nut back down and it bottomed out on the threads in the same place. That tells me that I can't be sure if the gland nut is actually touching the shock, too close to be sure. So a spacer makes sure -by showing some threads after tightening down the gland nut. As far as a washer, I just found something laying around that worked.

When you put the seals in the right way-they don't leak:stupid:

Well the only way I realized something waas wrong was trying the gland nut without the shock in there. I mean it wasn't much , But the nut just stop turning in and around that 1/8" gap you are talking about. It may be better advice to say that you can see atleast one or two threads. One washer and I saw atleast two threads. I can't remember now whether I used the nuts that came with the shocks, or the originals. Also, I didn't have any packing for the nut, which might make a difference. I honestly don't know what the packing even looks like, but I wish I had something to seal the shock in there.

Welcome to the Z world! First off-there's probably nothing you could think of that hasn't been tried or done on this engines as far as combinations. All you are doing here with this combo is basically making a L26 motor. I would suggest that you search this site and Hybridz to see what's been done. You will be amazed of what's out there and you might be inspired or confused with the amount of info.

I have been dealing with a clunking noise in the rear for a while, not to be confused with a diff clunking noise. I have been doing a lot of searching and I kept coming back to the strut loose, so I took it all apart today. Looking at the gland nut it looked like it was seated well, but when I grabbed it ,I could turn it by hand:ermm: Well I knew I found my issue, but why was it loose? After taking out the shock, I screwed the gland nut down on the empty strut I could see that the nut was running out of thread. So I popped in a washer to space it out and bingo, the gland nut is actually doing it's job now. No more clunking over bumps:)

I with Carl on this, change out the MC and then change the fluid BEFORE installing anything else. This will flush the contaminated fluid threw the old equipment. When you are doing individual brakes you can plug the brake line so you don't loose your fresh brake fluid. This will also make bleeding easier in the end with having some fluid already in the lines. If you haven't done these drum brakes before, I would do one side at a time or take pictures so you aren't guessing later how things go together

There's probably many ways to wire this, it depends on what you want in the circuit. I wanted a ; on/off switch accessable enertia switch incase of the worst scenerio fuel pump relay fuse I found the black/white stripe and green wire plug behind the heater panel. My car is a 9/71 and was wired for a pump, but didn't use one. This plug was used to tie in a loop circuit that would have a fused link before it went to the pump. I decided to cut off the plug end before it got to the loop and put in a on/off switch. Lot's of advantages here-emergency cut-off, maintenance cut-off, fuel smell deterent. Just the other day I was troubleshooting my blinkers, which requires key-on, I just switched off my pump during the process. Next I found the green power wire above the passenger side kick panel so I can wire in a fuel pump relay and inertia switch. Both items can be found at Summitt or Jegs-I chose a a generic fuel pump relay. I wanted to tie everything in right there at the kick panel. The inertia switch comes with three wires; Normal open normal close ground I tied the power wire coming from the relay to the normal/closed wire on the inertia, and then connected the ground wire on the enertia switch to the green wire going to the back of the car to the pump. The enertia switches are only 25$, and it is a nice safety feature. The relay got mounted next to my headlight relays tied into my fuse block.

Sounds like a determination like that might only be seen on a dyno. I know the 32's are recommended for a stock L6, not sure how modified your engine needs to be to warrant a bigger venturi-sounds like a race type scenerio to me.

Well shortly after getting my vents fixed(opened up) on my Cold Air box I started noticing the fuel smell that would stink up my garage. I was getting dirty looks from the wife on a daily basis about the fuel. I started looking for leaks at first, and then I just took one wiff around my air filter and realized where the fuel smell was coming from. I was trying to figure a way to remedy this and remember this other Z that had triples and he had an on/off switch rigged into his cab so he could turn the pump off with the ignition on. The owner was talking about the same issue of the fuel smell and what he did was shut the pump off a couple of blocks before he got home to empty the fuel bowls. You know what-it works. It's just a matter of judging when to shut the pump off so you at least make it into your garage:cool:

Mitchell, that will be great for those who need a starting point. I started this thread hoping to enlighten folks on what was involved in installing and getting Mikuni's running. I really knew nothing about them before I started, so I'm learning as I go. I'd love to see more dyno runs and postings. i realize that dynos can be different, but there is still useful information there-especially when your AFR's are layed out on a graph. Speaking of learning-what can someone tell me about the venturi's and how they are used in the tuning process?

Put a little shine to things today

You shouldn't have any problem reaching and lifting the engine with the hoist. Extend the arm all the way out. Think about how high you lift an engine to get it out of the car!

Reproduction panels are not the best, so you not only will have to replace, but will have to fabricate too. Like said above, there's more to be found, but I have seen much worse. Depends on your skill level and time and initial investment and sentimental attachment to the car. I spent 40 hours just doing floors and rails.

I think I have some good cores- pm me and I will check my inventory.

I think one of the reasons the sounds resonate is because the hood IS so close to the valve train. The heat is a consideration though. I wouldn' t insulate the whole underside of the hood if I did this, probably just the " hump" area

Did that and it worked to an extent! I guess if I just keep my foot in it I will be fine!

That's funny you mentioned that, because that's the only weather strip I didn't install. Now I will install it and see if it makes a difference.

I'm running the subby 3.90 with the t-5 and I wouldnt want any lower than that for me. I'm running cast pistons so I can't be revving out too much - at least not like an engine with forged pistons and a big cam. I do have a lightened flywheel that helps it rev up a bit quicker. Blipping the throttle is fun with the triples. What I am always impressed with is the torque of this motor, and I only dynoed 155tq.

I will add that you should be looking for a quench distance- head to piston clearance- of .022-.025. So you can shave the head to get your compression keeping the quench in mind. Hopefully you have on hand the book- " How to hotrod your Datsun engine", lots of good info there.

Hello Jason You are on the right track. I am running the l24 with early e88, basically a e31 9.55 ratio with SU's and made 155 running too rich. I haven't had issues with detonation yet running 38 degrees full advance with 93 octane. My cam is mild compared to yours and you will have 40's. I just recently installed 40's , but not dynoed yet- definitely picked up some HP. I'd recommend 280z valves and unshroud the chambers. Then work on the compression you want. My head is shaved .016, but my block is heavily notched for the bigger valves and for better breathing. I'd recommend you search Racer Brown and read is article on cams and Datsun motors. I think you will be happy with the L 24 based on your HP goals.

Couldn't find much searching under this subject. I don't even know if Datsun did this type insulating from the factory. Love to hear from someone that has insulated under the hood for noise and what their results are. I would think a barrier between the hood and the valve cover would suppress a lot of mechanical noise and make for a quieter engine. Don't get me wrong, I like hearing my engine, but would prefer to get rid of any metallic sounds and here a more subdued power-if that makes sense. I know some folks are worried about adding weight, but I'm not concerned. Maybe I need to step up the firewall insulation with some dynomat or something.

Welcome to the Z world. There's a lot of good help here, but please help us help you. We need a better description of your car. A lot of these Z's get carbs swapped around and we can help diagnose things knowing what carbs you have. Pictures also help if your not sure. Does your car the original motor, ignition, carbs??? Any history on the car?

Innovation keeps me interested and challenged. I want my Z to be unique and to spread ideas to build on , because that's what these sites have done for me. God- what did we do before the internet!!!!