madkaw

Sounds like a determination like that might only be seen on a dyno. I know the 32's are recommended for a stock L6, not sure how modified your engine needs to be to warrant a bigger venturi-sounds like a race type scenerio to me.

Well shortly after getting my vents fixed(opened up) on my Cold Air box I started noticing the fuel smell that would stink up my garage. I was getting dirty looks from the wife on a daily basis about the fuel. I started looking for leaks at first, and then I just took one wiff around my air filter and realized where the fuel smell was coming from. I was trying to figure a way to remedy this and remember this other Z that had triples and he had an on/off switch rigged into his cab so he could turn the pump off with the ignition on. The owner was talking about the same issue of the fuel smell and what he did was shut the pump off a couple of blocks before he got home to empty the fuel bowls. You know what-it works. It's just a matter of judging when to shut the pump off so you at least make it into your garage:cool:

Mitchell, that will be great for those who need a starting point. I started this thread hoping to enlighten folks on what was involved in installing and getting Mikuni's running. I really knew nothing about them before I started, so I'm learning as I go. I'd love to see more dyno runs and postings. i realize that dynos can be different, but there is still useful information there-especially when your AFR's are layed out on a graph. Speaking of learning-what can someone tell me about the venturi's and how they are used in the tuning process?

Put a little shine to things today

You shouldn't have any problem reaching and lifting the engine with the hoist. Extend the arm all the way out. Think about how high you lift an engine to get it out of the car!

Reproduction panels are not the best, so you not only will have to replace, but will have to fabricate too. Like said above, there's more to be found, but I have seen much worse. Depends on your skill level and time and initial investment and sentimental attachment to the car. I spent 40 hours just doing floors and rails.

I think I have some good cores- pm me and I will check my inventory.

I think one of the reasons the sounds resonate is because the hood IS so close to the valve train. The heat is a consideration though. I wouldn' t insulate the whole underside of the hood if I did this, probably just the " hump" area

Did that and it worked to an extent! I guess if I just keep my foot in it I will be fine!

That's funny you mentioned that, because that's the only weather strip I didn't install. Now I will install it and see if it makes a difference.

I'm running the subby 3.90 with the t-5 and I wouldnt want any lower than that for me. I'm running cast pistons so I can't be revving out too much - at least not like an engine with forged pistons and a big cam. I do have a lightened flywheel that helps it rev up a bit quicker. Blipping the throttle is fun with the triples. What I am always impressed with is the torque of this motor, and I only dynoed 155tq.

I will add that you should be looking for a quench distance- head to piston clearance- of .022-.025. So you can shave the head to get your compression keeping the quench in mind. Hopefully you have on hand the book- " How to hotrod your Datsun engine", lots of good info there.

Hello Jason You are on the right track. I am running the l24 with early e88, basically a e31 9.55 ratio with SU's and made 155 running too rich. I haven't had issues with detonation yet running 38 degrees full advance with 93 octane. My cam is mild compared to yours and you will have 40's. I just recently installed 40's , but not dynoed yet- definitely picked up some HP. I'd recommend 280z valves and unshroud the chambers. Then work on the compression you want. My head is shaved .016, but my block is heavily notched for the bigger valves and for better breathing. I'd recommend you search Racer Brown and read is article on cams and Datsun motors. I think you will be happy with the L 24 based on your HP goals.

Couldn't find much searching under this subject. I don't even know if Datsun did this type insulating from the factory. Love to hear from someone that has insulated under the hood for noise and what their results are. I would think a barrier between the hood and the valve cover would suppress a lot of mechanical noise and make for a quieter engine. Don't get me wrong, I like hearing my engine, but would prefer to get rid of any metallic sounds and here a more subdued power-if that makes sense. I know some folks are worried about adding weight, but I'm not concerned. Maybe I need to step up the firewall insulation with some dynomat or something.

Welcome to the Z world. There's a lot of good help here, but please help us help you. We need a better description of your car. A lot of these Z's get carbs swapped around and we can help diagnose things knowing what carbs you have. Pictures also help if your not sure. Does your car the original motor, ignition, carbs??? Any history on the car?

Innovation keeps me interested and challenged. I want my Z to be unique and to spread ideas to build on , because that's what these sites have done for me. God- what did we do before the internet!!!!

Nice Z!

I think I have an extra one of those-I can look if you are interested

Basically!

I thought I would show what I did for making the fuel enrichments work on my Mikuni's. Most people probably disconnect this system and it is probably wise if you are racing your car. It does make starting the engine very easy. It's just a simple cable pull on the enrichment levers that has two settings-full rich and half rich. You pull the levers to open the enrichment and turn the key, no pumping the gas-infact the manual says not to pump the gas or even touch the throttle. It has worked for me without a flaw. It brings the car to a high idle with the right mixture to keep the engine running. It doesn't seem to dump a lot of fuel in there either-according to my spastic O2 gauge. I didn't get any cable or linkage with the carbs so I went down to the local Autozone and picked up a choke cable kit. It worked out well using the existing hole from the stock choke cables. As far as mounting the pull knob-I always wondered what I would mount in that open space on my dash

Well that cam was originally bigger then I thought. That's a lot of duration combined with .020 more piston height. Why advance the cam?-maybe looking to get Stephen more torque down low, even though he has the pistons to handle the rpm---interesting

Leon, you see where I was going on that. That's a mild cam by any standards-it's also the cam I have in my car(at least close to it, Schneider 274). My head was shaved .12 and my block .005 and I have tons of room.

I was just expressing my opinion, so please take it that way. I hear what your saying too, if your happy with the engine the way it runs, idles and performs and that's all the further you need to know then cool! I guess there is a point you get obsessed with this stuff-my wife thinks Im possessed.

You make the comment about a lot of squish; makes me think that's why Eli went with reworking your cam instead of messing with the pistons. He was looking for that ideal squish zone for these motors and the piston to quench pad was there to help with detonation, so he opted to increase clearance in other ways.

For the small investment-compared to what he has spent-I would think it mandatory to spend the 150-250$ on dyno tune. I learned so much about my motor in one 85$ session. All the timing talk gets verified on the dyno. I was running too much advance according to the dyno. The last 3-4 degrees got me nothing for power, but probably benefits me on cruise considering I don't run a vacuum advance. I also learned that the butt dyno sucks and is very decieving. Like running SM needles on my car, when the stock would have made more power and used less fuel. Once I get my Mikuni's dialed in I plan to make another trip to the dyno for comparison. My wideband should get me close, but these 200$ widebands aren't as good as the 2000$ ones they use at the dyno. The race car driver/dyno operator I worked with said that the widebands are frequently a point off, which could be leaving power on the table.