madkaw

Well I'm probably a 1/16" from being flush, which I can't see as being a problem because the hole in cover plate between the engine and tranny is slightly bigger to fit outside the seal. As far as riding a new surface, i installed a Speedi sleeve so the whole surface is new. I got to say I'm a bit anxious about all this---BUT, BUT I do believe I will better off because I do think I installed the last seal BACKWARDS:stupid::stupid: I can't believe I did that, but I will have to fess-up. I will use the excuse that I was under the car last time and under durress--wizz poor I know.

One last thing-should it be flush with the block?

thanks

Okay guys, i'm getting tired and can't think straight-as well as second guessing myself. The rear main seal gets installed with the flat part(face) of the seal facing me or the other way around. I am second guessing myself since I have had two leak. I just installed a speedi sleeve for a new surface on the crank, but now I have somehow got myself confused as which direction the seal faces. God I'm getting old I guess

Does the engine turn over freely? Can you turn it over with the front pulley bolt? Take all the spark plugs out and try to turn the motor over(clockwise looking straight at the front of the engine).

"Odd whine sound"-like the the starter motor has spun around, but not attached to the motor in anyway? Make sure the starter is installed correctly-no gaps between the starter and the bell housing-not cocked in anyway. There isn't much else, but you can get a bad one right from the get go. Is it a Duralast? When I needed a NEW starter, I finally gave up and bought a used one. The new ones all seem to grind and work imperfectly and the used one would be smooth and never miss a beat. IS almost like the remanufactured the engagement gear teeth were sized wrong and they wouldn't engage in the flywheel properly.

Okay, so the battery is probably not the issue. Your next step would be to have the starter checked and the cables. You'll get it, just be methodical. Starter issues can be a pain because it is hard to get a good after market one these days. That was great advice to have your NEW starter checked before you leave the store.

Pull the battery off and the starter and take both of them to a local parts store and have them tested. They can load tset the battery. Even though it took a charge, it could be shorting across cells during loading. They can also put the starter on the test stand - maybe the solenoid sounds like it's working, but it's not. Again, it's essential to determine the state of your battery.

Glad to see you are charging. Hopefully nothing else got put back on backwards.

Good point guys. Honestly, I didn't think my wrap job would do anymore then keep the extreme heat from the header away from the bottom of the intake and keep the fuel charge a bit cooler. The wrap is only on the bottom half of each runner, and I believe there will still be plenty of heat in the intake. I also thought I have searched and found guys that have run a heat shield all the way up against the head, so this would be different? I would also consider the length of my intake runners-2"- maybe. Now how long are the VW runners. Just think how far the Mikuni pumps spray fuel-direct injection!! Not sure if any pooling is going to happen on this intake. I was actually worried more about heat transfer from the intake to the carbs. Besides-you know how long it took to make those weird patterns to wrap around that intake-they're staying-

And supplies power to about everything

:tapemouth

I wish I was standing in front of my car right now so I will have to go by memory----BUT, shouldn't the white wire on the starter be on the same lug as the positive cable?

Well I took accelerator pumps and nozzles out and blew some compressed air thru the passages and looked things over. Really couldn't see anything that would cause any problems, but there was something somewhere, because the nozzles are all shooting equally:beer: Then I pulled out the pilot screws and bad news(see pic). This is why you don't use any force whatsoever when bottoming out the screws. Someone really cranked on these and actually left a step in the mild brass screws. Todd has 6 new ones coming! I have some larger pilot air jets coming also incase. Soooo-while I am waiting around for parts I decided to put some heat barrier on my intake. Not sure about some of the other heat shields out there, but the one I made doesn't go all the way under the intake, just the carbs. I got some Thermo-tech adhesive backed stuff and wrapped the bottom side of the intake.

I don't see a pic of the starter and the fusible link there. I would be pulling and yanking on every post on the back of the alternator and the starter. Do you have 12 volts at the back of the alternator. What exact voltage are you reading at the alternator?

Okay- take a deep breath- Aahhhh Onemore time now- deep breath, now exhale - good Welcome to Classic Z car. We are always willing to help, but help us help you. Your first post is a lot of info crammed into one paragraph- too much actually . Start from the beginning- " I just recently rebuilt my motor and have installed it and... It does seem as if you have missed a very important item somewhere since you have no power anywhere in your car. Have you looked at a wiring schematic? Besides the actual battery cables there are some rather important wires that if not hooked up would kill everything. Did you make any changes to any wiring? Battery tested good? Grounds very tight ? Fusible links intact? Dilithium crystals on impulse power? All kidding aside, give us all info, pics you can and we can help you figure this out

Rear discs are WAY better at everything and they look cool too! Hey-I have to justify my Wildwoods somehow:)

Kevin, Welcome aboard! I know what you mean about being in your own little world. These cars are great for the hobbyist. Looking foward to seeing some of your posts and glad to hear you are sharing your work. There is always something to learn with these cars and similiar issues to share. I like hsaring on this site and Hybridz, but this site is my favorite with a bunch of class guys and gals!

Better yet- do the STI. LSD diff for the real transformation

Time to go to the dyno with some extra jets in hand and get all you can out of the mighty L24.

That's freaking ugly- you better just let me put it on my car so you won't be embarrassed

Yes, Rock Auto ROCKS! You get on their e-mail list and they will send out closeout sale stuff for your car -dirt cheap. They also have good descriptions of their parts including manufactuer

WOW, you've got a set-up much beyond the DIY'er-nice. I can't imagine the 280z floors are much harder, since the 240z floors were quite the challenge.

The floors were from ZF and usually if the rust is bad it runs up the firewall and you will need to add metal. Yes there are ways to diminish the fact that you have to weld on your back. As you can see i welded the frames to the floors off the car, but if you have to tie into the tension boxes, you will be on your back doing that. Like I said, this is not an easy job and the DIY'er should know what he's up against. I also found that careful attention has to paid to where and how the floor ties into the rocker panel-if that's not too rusted either. The bends are not exact and it will cause the floor to hang low or crooked. I believe i documented all this in athread somewhere on here. It also depends on how stock you want it to look. You can make it functional and strong and don't have to try too hard to make it look original. The ZF pans are good, don't get me wrong, the job itself is one of the most challenging sheet metal jobs i've done-physically and skill levels(trying to make it look original). I would also recommend making an inexpensive tool purchase and get some Cleco fastners from Summitt. It is a great way to fit the panel before and during welding. IMHO!

I did the complete Por-15 treatment-including the etching of the new metal with metal prep.