madkaw

The shim was placed between the door and the hinge. My doors were removed for paint and might have originally had a shim and it was lost in the mess! I'm pretty sure it was .060 I also had to slam the door hard, even though I thought it was adjusted right. Grab the end of the door with it open and try to lift up- there should be no play. There is also a small amount of adjustment on the window and frame. I am also running precision seals

Gnose, not that serious, but serious enough to go back with the triples and pay a couple hundred to dynotune while the engine is in the car. Capt. -I only paid for a baseline run(3 passes), but things were slow so they let me do some adjustments. I wish I has brought my 27's along with me now. I turned my mixtures way in and it only affected the AFR below 3000rpm significantly. So I was taking a chance of running lean there and still be rich. The only real solution was a needle change for my motor. 1.5 turns in amounted to about .1 on the AFR. The owner thought a full point on the AFR would have been worth maybe 10 HP

There's really much to photograph , it was a piece of scrap aluminum made to wedge behind the lower hinge. The metal might have been.060 thick. I guess it took so long to figure out since the door fit pretty well before all the paint work.

Still waiting to get e-mailed the dyno sheet, but basically I did 150/150 I guess I should be happy for a l24 AFR's were decent, but the SM's are too much in my opinion and the opinion of the race shop I dynoed at. I was barely above 12's and he felt I needed closer to 13's from what they see on NA motors. What I learned from this experience; SM needles are too much for the L24 with a mild cam and there is no amount of adjustment that will lean it out on WOT( I tried)Sorry guys, the mixture screws do not effect the entire power band. The butt dyno is misleading:disappoin My engine seemed detonation proof(even at 38 full advance)-no signs of it anywhere, either audible or on the dyno sheet-maybe a good motor for turbocharging:cool: 200HP, if I ever make it there, will be lot's of fun. I will need, and want, to rent time on the dynojet when the Mikuni's are on-I want to be sure. The dyno shop said that most of the widebands are inaccurate(that they see) changing timing from 32 to 38 full advance had little effect on HP-in this case The particulars for those who don't know; L24-40 over, early e-88, bigger valves, unshrouded, 9.55 to 1 MSA 6-2 header, dual exhaust e12-80 ignition, total advance 32-36 -3 runs SU carbs with SM needles

Well I could only muster 150/150 with my 2.4 and SU's. In relative terms to the OP, I'm in the ballpark with the smaller engine and carbs

Hey Leon, At the dyno today, we will see! Hope you don't burst my bubble if the numbers are good

I guess sometimes you have to get pissed off enough to fix somethings. A complete resto and my passenger door has never been right. The passenger door always had to be slammed and acted like it was sprung. The bottom of the door didn't line up flush with the bottom of the body line rear quarter. I tried adjusting the latch a million times it seemed. Pulling up on the door from the end it seemed that the hinge was slightly worn. So I pulled the door off after trying again to adjust everything and decided to shim the bottom hinge. I just grabbed a scrap of .060 aluminum and cut out a shim to put under the lower hinge so I could raise the door just a bit. What a difference it made. You wouldn't think that an adjustement so small and in a direction that seemed contrary or ineffective to the direction I needed to go would work, but it did. I guess it allowed the latch adjustment to be effective. Now the door lines up perfect and now the door closes with just a firm push. It also opens like it's not sprung. Oh how happy for a small victory. I hope this helps others with this common problem.

Would like to hear more specifics as far as timing, type fuel, afr readings

That sounds about right for a well tuned machine. Congrats!

Just an update. I finally caught Les near a phone and he told me to send the defective ZG flare back. He said there were a few odd ones, not sure what that meant. He also said he recieved my e-mails, but couldn't download my pictures on his phone? So if he recieves the e-mails I guess he doesn't have time to respond? Actually he has never responded to any e-mail I have sent him. I'm trying guys, but not sure about this. For you that 'know" him, please understand this is nothing personal because he seemed very cordial on the phone. I guess this is the nature of the beast when dealing with a small market hobby car.

Your Probably right Steve. My next question was going to be for you and you already answered it by saying you drive the car and it had good power. Such a narrow band would be more ignition or fuel. Will the car excellerate out of this narrow band easily? It only does this during a slow exceleration ?

Being that you already changed it out, I would say the pump itself is not the problem. The AFR numbers are still strange, but I will say that I have seen 16+ on my car with no popping. After doing my own searching everywhere on the web, I would have to guess that you have a exhaust valve problem. either a wiped lobe, or a bad guide, failed spring that is restricting the valve or tightening up and causing the valve to hang up. IMHO I had problems with my previous 1970 with the valves getting hung up by the valves, but it got bad enough that it showed up at idle. The only time the car ran perfect is when I would feed the motor AVGAS. The heavy lead content would free things up and the motor ran better. Best of luck!

Wow-400+ posts and we haven't solved the mystery yet! I feel for you man, this is got to be extremely frustrating. I was breezing thru the 400+ posts and searching what was done as far as the fuel pump. I know you replaced your pump and checked pressure, did you also check for volume? Have you checked all vent lines pertaining to the fuel tank and system? Looking at your last post regarding AFR numbers, it is hard to imagine you go lean starting in the 10's at idle(which is PIG rich). Even 12 at cruise is very rich, but the tip in on the throttle looks fairly normal, another words a momemtary rise in the AFR is what you will see during tip in due to no excelerator pump. So am I going anywhere with this? It seems that the fuel pump is not keeping up during a prolonged rpm session? Would this be a different than a WOT situation?-not sure, but you would think it would show up there also. Just thinking out loud and hoping to have the million dollar answer

Well if anything- this thread will be good PR for Les:) Glad to hear so many good things about Les. I guess I have been enlightened

I appreciate the feedback, not sure I agree with the "chill out" remark. I understand that this a "hobby/part time job" market. I guess having a website tells me that a person is somewhat tech savy and somewhat accessable with the same kind of tech. I didn't realize that Classic Datsun was such a part time venture that it might take weeks to hear back from the owner. I am fully aware that are market is limted and allowances need to be made. My post was a need for enlightment-as stated. I still think a disclaimer should be in writing on the website that this situation might occur. I would and will do everything to aviod MSA and that's why I gave Les a call.

Okay guys, I am a patient man, but hate being left in the dark. I will wait to hear from him- don't have much of a choice I guess. I think Les should have some kind of disclaimer on his web site to address this situation.

I guess I just got lucky a couple of weeks agao when I e-mailed Les at Classic Datsun parts and he called me the same day. I inquired about some ZG flares via e-mail and he called me the same day-WOW, I'm impressed. He said he was getting ready to go out of town for a few days and he would get my ZG flares out before he left. So I paid him and sure enough the flares were there a week later. The problem is that I'm not quite happy with one of the flares and I want to talk to les about this issue. Well I sent him an e-mail and I got nothing back. I called everyday and his voice mailbox is full----------always. This has been at least a week or more. Is this a way to run a business-even a part time business? I'm on the road all the time and I at least check my messages and answer my e-mails. any insight on this guys??

I'm with you to a point cpt. Obvious. Not sure if a nozzle adjustment does much at 4500 even though at cruise. If the floats are a smidge low( I know. I know, here he goes again with the damn floats), there is no fuel to siphon at this point. The neddles are barely off their seat, so the fuel level has to be there-or am I misunderstanding how these carbs work.

And we have crossed out that your running the correct impedance coil for the pertronix - this thread is so long to go thru! And I thought the AFRs were much higher during the popping. I'm leaning towards what Beermate at this point. I'm not buying the valve scenario. Have we tried a different ground for the ignition?

You keep saying-"leaning out", what does that mean? Are you saying that by looking at your wideband guage the engine is leaning out?

It's probably the second biggest reason for loving this car-the first being the fun of driving it and listening to the inline sex! My son who is in highschool hopes I will pick him up everyday at school-the kids have no idea what the car is but they think it's an cool I had a guy in a company van stop in front of me at a 4 way stop sign in the middle of traffic hour to jump out and take a picture of my car. I mean traffic was backed up everywhere-I'm like- are you kidding me! I bought a new car the other day and I drove my Z to do the final paperwork at the dealer. After the final transaction the dealer looked at me with a big sh!t eating grin and said," soooo, you need me to drive your Z car home so you can the new car home". I said -sure- and he followed me home driving my Z. He was about my age and he couldn't thank me enough and took a dozen pictures in the garage. I get thumbs up from at least one person everytime I drive around. What's interesting and soon might get more interesting is the fact that i live in Bloomington at Indiana University where there is a very large young Asian population of rich kids. There is a tons of young Asians driving around Audis, Maserattis, porsches and we are not talking the cheap models. I wonder what these young "hot rodders" think of seeing a Japenese hot rod running around. I just moved back into this area so I'm quite sure my car will get known around this community.

Sh!t happens then we move on....

Yep, He called me last week to say he was shipping out my ZG flares before he went on the road for a week.

Mike, i'm going to be doing the same thing someday-going to FI from carbs, but I wouldn't go through all that work to put such an outdated system on there. Look at it as a long term project and do it a little at a time. I plan on getting a megasquirt set-up and start off using my LC-1 and programing my spark control first. You can hook up your MAP sensor and get used to seeing things on your laptop as how your engine runs. There's less parts and less things to screw up with a newer programmable ECU system. You would also be taking a performance penalty running a stock EFI system. You could still use the stock manifold and throttle body, injectors to save some money, but I wouldn't transfer anything else-IMHO i i

I'm suprised Dave went with the 42 head over the e-31, but the e-31 might be too much compression and would require more money to make it work. Of course all you have to make your determinations by, are what folks on here say run well. Not much in dyno results. So is it better to give up timing advance for more compression?-only dyno comparisons would say. Running high compression and running only 30 degrees total advance seems self defeating. In the end I guess Dave from rebello would know better than anyone else