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madkaw

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Everything posted by madkaw

  1. madkaw
    Hey guys, hoping someone has a stock oil pump laying around and can pull the pump spring out and give me a measurement. I believe I am running a HP spring and I want to reduce to a stock oil spring. I'd like to verify my spring is HP. My spring measures about 2.135" long. Let me know if you need anymore measurements. thanks
  2. madkaw
    Not sure what you make of that pic-I have the same manual and it doesn't even show the "groove". Granted, it isn't much of a difference, but there is a difference, and that difference would be the right direction for this issue. Also it would manifest itself as more than just a idle adjustment. The mixture screws can affect performance all the way into cruise.
  3. madkaw
    The L24 is a great motor and are tough as nails. There is a ton of info on this site and others as far as what people have done to these motors----and stuff that really didn't need to be done too! Your question is very general and you might want to do more searching and come up with a plan that the members here can help you refine. If you are doing the work yourself, than the time invested searching with be priceless.
  4. madkaw
    Originally Posted by madkaw No part of the needle should show except for the needle - no shank should be seen. All of the literature says that shoulder of the shank should be flush with the bottom face of the piston, not flush with the bottom of the venturi groove. That means you should be able to see like .035 worth of shank. I have never set the needles up like that and i am running mine flush with the "groove". I have been looking for "literature" to verify this either way, but I can't right now. I believe I saw this done on Z-therapys video. Like I said, my car runs great with the needle flush.
  5. madkaw
    Okay- I'm not seeing this so called pic of the SU piston, but I'm using a I phone. I hope that the needle is seated flush against the bottom of te piston. No part of the needle should show except for the needle - no shank should be seen. If the needle is showing part of the shank, then I guarantee that's your problem
  6. madkaw
    If you are going to spend any real money to rebuild a 35+ old diff, I would consider the Subaru diff option. You might have 800$ or more into it, but you would have an LSD made in the last 10 years and a variety of ratio options. That's assuming that John C would ship axles that far. The option is spelled out on hybridz . Maybe subbys are more available over there. Just a thought .
  7. madkaw
    My hypothesis still remains the same - the level of fuel has to be right for everything to work together. Maybe even more so if a different needle and seat is used for setting the level- other than stock.
  8. madkaw
    Did you ever think this thread would go 10 pages strong! Another hypothesis- z therapy carbs use the gross jets- correct? Is there a different interaction between these jets and stock needles? Still leaning( no pun intended) towards a low float level which is causing an insufficient amount of fuel at stock settings. It seems that it has been determined that the engine is running lean and his vacuum is strong at idle. If richining the mixtures at the knob doesn't improve anything does NOT eliminate a bad float setting. The two must work together-IMHO
  9. madkaw
    That's just by chance the link is on #3, that means nothing unless you can see the other shiny link.
  10. madkaw
    I'd say that your AFRS are high for WOT. You should be dipping into the mid 12's at wot- so you are running lean- IMHO. Is that your reason for popping, can't say for sure, but you are lean. The only time I see 15 + afr is during initial throttle tip in and than the AFRS steadily drop during wot and bottom out around 12 ish. You could try to back down your mixture screws- make a BIG adjustment to see if it makes changes to the AFRS . I doubt you will find anything under the valve cover of importance- but hey, it won't hurt
  11. madkaw
    Glad to hear you have a manual and it sounds like you have time to study it before the parts come. Yes you have wiggle room. I would suggest that you pull all of your spark plugs to make the engine as easy to turn over as possible. When you do get things put back together or when you do move the crank-it will be easy to tell if you are having any issues of valves running into pistons.
  12. madkaw
    I bet that dry eraser board looks busy
  13. madkaw
    Sorry for the bad advice, I assumed that your head was off since you said the front cover was off. Do you have a manual for this engine? If not -you need to get one. If your having a hard time determining TDC on the dizzy, then doing a timing chain is going to be a challenge. Get a Chilton's manual or equivelant and look at setting up the timing chain. It's a matter of counting teeth and getting the chain set right on the sprocket. It's going to be hard for us to help you without you being able to reference a manual and you need a basic operational understanding of these engines.
  14. madkaw
    Put the crank pulley bolt back in and crank away
  15. madkaw
    Just checking!!!
  16. madkaw
    You are aware that sometimes you have to loosen the domes up and retorque the screws if you experience binding. Sometimes you can tighten one of the screws too much on one side which will have your dome sitting on the carb crooked.
  17. madkaw
    Working on 40 year old cars is a potential for problems
  18. madkaw
    Take the starter off and use a prybar to hold the flywheel steady. Or if you are not worried about changing the position of the engine-as far as keeping it TDC or something like that-use the starter to break the torque on the bolt. Put a socket and ratchet on the crank bolt and wedge it in the right direction(motor turns clockwise), hit the starter and boom
  19. madkaw
    It's better to use the crank bolt-24mm socket and try to turn clockwise at all times. Pull the spark plugs to make it easier turning the engine over .
  20. madkaw
    That's what I suggested and I got that idea from googling!!
  21. madkaw
    Your cylinder compression levels are great-don't even give that another thought.
  22. madkaw
    I thought it sounded like it was running lean by your description-thus why I was pushing for an enrichment of the floats. The plugs look at little white from what I can tell-maybe leaner on the front 3. So she felt like she had more power with increased fuel?? This could also be a vacuum issue, but your vacuum showed strong signal at idle. After setting the rear float-did it pass the test of being able to see fuel sitting at the top of the jet with the piston removed??
  23. madkaw
    It usually does come down to the basics-and you can't get more basic than a 40 year old car. I'm with Traveln man, the fun of this hobby for me is the learning. Even as basic as these cars can be, I still learn something all the time. Just got my Corky Bell book on Turbo charging-I'll be getting dangerous now!!!!
  24. madkaw
    So did I miss something or did you test after float adjustments?
  25. madkaw
    Getting your valve clearance correct is a MUST, but hard to say if that is the problem . Is this car stock?
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